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Thread: cylindrical lens pair vs anamorphic prisms?

  1. #41
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    @ "Do not trust the Chinese. This is a bit of a cultural thing." ....I disagree here very strongly ... BUT... everyone is entitled to their own opinion, however much of an absurd over generalisation that may seem to me.
    I do business with several Chinese companies and have had numerous conversations with them (some face to face). This is not actually a criticism in the way it might appear. It is a little like how some cultures enjoy haggling when negotiating. It needs to be factored into any purchase, "buyer beware". Before making a large purchase, I order, test and verify and then periodically retest. It is part of the overhead to be factored in against the often very large discounts they provide. It is, despite this hassle, worth it.

    Can I run them at 1A with little or no cooling?
    You need to distinguish heat sinking and heat removal from active cooling, as with a TEC. You could run these diodes well past 1A if you can assure that the diode does not rise above room temperature. Effective heat removal is where the magic is. It is hard to extract a lot of heat (thermal energy) with a low thermal gradient. Use clean, extremely flat surfaces with a tiny bit of thermal grease, or better, indium foil tightly clamped down, large interface areas and very fine finned heat sinks with powerful fans. Or, as I said above, a water cooling block. These water cooling modules are worth a lot more in their effectiveness than a powerful TEC.

    You need to do some testing. The questions you ask are reasonable, but without some hands on experience, you are running up against the wall of the "black box mystery". The real attraction I have to laser projection projects is in fact the testing. How can I get the best results, better than others have achieved? Get some prisms and some cylinders and try to produce the best beam quality with each. You will then understand what you are now having to take on faith.

  2. #42
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    @ "I bought this off ebay a couple weeks ago already but still waiting for it" ... interesting link seems to be about right but very difficult to tell from the description exactly what it does.

    Maybe once it arrives you can give us a better idea of what it does and how it does it.

    Cheers
    PS Make sure you put the sensor as close to the LD as possible.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by catalanjo View Post
    @ Maltes
    "you mean like planters does it? I don't think he uses few cylindricals for that. " ...no a bit similar but NOT like planters does it
    Then how? Im really interested.


    @king4quarter: Try a LD driver which has a thermistor that will cut power to the diode when it exceeds a certain temperature. Drill a small hole as close to the diode inside the diode housing as possible. Put the tip of the thermistor there and fix it in place with some thermal compound. Then you won't have to worry about damaging your diodes from overdriving them.
    Last edited by Maltes; 10-24-2016 at 12:54.

  4. #44
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    Instead of a spherical lens making a fully corrected beam converge to a point (where you place an aperture= hole or spatial filter)You use cyl lens and make beam converge to a "slit filter" then through a spherical lens to a "slit filter" in other axis then cyl lens to convert back to beam. The idea is to spread intensity when passing thru filter so as not to have to use molybdenum etc. for very high powers which tend to ruin the spatial filters. Also interested to see beam resulting beam quality.

    Cheers
    Last edited by catalanjo; 10-24-2016 at 14:07.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by king4quarter View Post
    I've got a problem here thats pissing me off lol I bought this waveplate but it isn't rotating the beam like i thought....is it because I need to rotate the diode manually from horizontal to vertical then through the waveplate? or is it supposed to rotate the beam because of the lens?(Obviously not?)
    The whole idea of the 1/2wave plate is to rotate the polarisation WITHOUT rotating he beam !

    Cheers

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by king4quarter View Post
    and man those copper spacers are so handy...Im using 20x20x1mm sizes
    Copper spacers? Where did you find those? Or did you cut yourself from a copper sheet?

  7. #47
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    Oh, "thermal pads". I thought they were only made from a soft rubbery material. Nice find.

  8. #48
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    @ "Im actually done with this laser I think...just had to glue the legs back" ...this is new ... a laser with legs.


    @ "Oh, "thermal pads". I thought they were only made from a soft rubbery material."
    Copper bits are usually called "shims" and are part of the reason why stacking is done vertically instead of horizontally..... also you are right..... thermal pads ARE usually spongy!

    Nice to see that Jors started a thread "R.I.P. Laser diodes experiences" ...but Maltes....even if it comes from the "Soul"...... you really need a spot more practice with that flute!

    Cheers

  9. #49
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    I have this feeling looking at the pictures, and I may be wrong, that if you had a thicker baseplate and finned heatsink under it and then fans under those heatsinks you wouldn't need a TEC for this.
    Someone more experience will tell for sure, but with this setup it seems to me like the heat and cold from a peltier would cancel each other out.

  10. #50
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    Thanks for pics...makes everything a lot clearer !
    @ " .I couldnt of done it without the CPU fan cooler...it keeps the second TECs heat in order "
    agreed....but you could have done it with JUST the second tec and CPU cooler and saved energy into the bargain.
    Cheers
    PS ...I like the heat pipe cooler but it looks like a bitch to fit into a projector.
    PPS. Still can't spot the LEGS.

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