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Thread: Rebuild my projektor. from 100mw to 500mw

  1. #1
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    Default Rebuild my projektor. from 100mw to 500mw

    Hello.

    I am new to lasers. I have a Langling L816G 100 mw laser green 532 nm.

    I like the User interface but i want it to be a little stronger. So i am thinking about changing the module to a 500 mw green laser inside.

    What should i mind when rebuilding the projektor.

    Questions:

    1 it must not be green. Do you suggest any other color that is easier to put in? I have licens for Class 3B

    2 I Do i have to mind different NM such as 532 or 520?. Do you prefer any NM value.

    3. When does NM become burning. My 100mw 532 is not a burning laser. But i have seen other lasers
    around 100 which is burning. I just want to know little about this to be safer.

    4 My projektor is a 10 kpps laser. Can i put in a 15 kpps or 25 kpps if i want, or is that controlled by the main board?

    5 if some one has any 500mw to sell i would be glad. i live in sweden.

    6. Is it possible to just change the diode without changing the driver if the voltage value is the same?

    /Fredrik

  2. #2
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    based on your use of language it is very apparent to me that you should NOT attempt to do this. What you suggest would require replacing almost everything. By the time you are done you will be better off buying a finished product.

    Now that said if you really want to learn in the process please first take a course in laser safety. There is nothing inherently dangerous in this if you are trained and equipped to protect yourself and those around you. If done wrong you could injure yourself or worse a family member. It only takes a fraction of a second in an eye.

    Someone else please jump in and point him to some online courses.

    A second way to do this I feel is safe would be to buy a fully assembled rgb module and a new set of scanners. This if you have some basic electronics background you could assemble to make a new projector. It is the aligning of the lasers that is dangerous. This removes that aspect. I saw a nice module by ATEN that would be perfect for you.

  3. #3
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    May 2016
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    Hello.

    Based on your use if language it is very apparent to me that you did not read what i wrote.

    I don't want to build a new laser projector. I already have one that is really nice. I like the user interface.
    I just want to crank up the beam a little bit though it stays in laser class 3B, which i have a licens for.

    And i am total aware of the danger with laser. That does not say that i am stuffed with knowledge of lasers.
    I just wanted to have some nice answers to my questions, not given some standard wise guy comments.

    Thanks in advance.

    /Fredrik

  4. #4
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    Answering in your manner does not help.. Kecked is actually spot on with his advice to you. You will be better off buying a new projector.

    That said, everything is possible. Changing the module you have for a more powerful can be done, but a 500mw green module are probably way to large to fit inside your projector. Blue diode modules are much smaller and might be a way if power is the important goal. Bare in mind that blue lasers must be 3-4 times as powerful to give the same light effect as green laser. Your 100mw green will probably look brighter than a 500mw blue.

    No you can not just change the diode in your 532nm module. It will require a new driver crystals cooling etc.

    Please read as much as you can in previous threads here, and then you will hopefully realise that Kecked was spot on in his answer to you.
    __________________________________________________ __________

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    Just got to love lasers!

  5. #5
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    May 2016
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    Default

    Thanks for the quick answer.

    So if i understand you right. even if i buy this projector (click on the link )as a complete new one, it is not going to help my problem?
    http://www.tronios.com/en/hyperion-a...ue-dmx-sd.html

    Is it all about the color or is it about NM for feeling the brightness?
    Is it that simple that i should search for a yellow beam?

    /Fredrik

  6. #6
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    Thumbs up

    I've done my due diligence so here goes.

    Something reasonable would be to leave it all alone and pull the dpss laser. replace only that with the 520nm diode and driver. That is doable.

    You can not modify your dpss 532 laser. Forget it. Replace it. The best way to do this is take the hit on the yellow and use 520nm diodes. Now you toss the dpss out and put in a driver with a diode and a lasorb of course. By the time you replace the scanners and the diodes out you will find left some cheap dichros, poor mirrors, and unstable base...if it all fits in the case. Point is why go to the trouble. It's just not worth it. Your better off starting from scratch all diode.

    the yellow from 532 in combination with 642 and 450 is the best I can think of and gives the nicest color spread. Ratio of power 2:1:3 rgb works well. The issue is modulation of the green 532 is not so good. If you are doing beams only then frankly it doesn't matter. That is the first question to ask. If you are doing beams than 15kps is fine 20 a bit better. I suggest the Pangolin 506 scanners. 45kps easy. For beams the following is much better 638 red 532 green 473 or 462 blue 4:1:4 rgb





    Better yet scratch build

    Buy the dtr three diode rgb pack and some drivers from daves laser shop. Buy the 506 scanners from pangolin and a set of modified drivers. Get an optical plate and mount the diodes in there mounts. Add three mm1 first with a mirror to steer the first beam down the row of dichros. Mount all three mm1 on an optical rail so they are lined up. Make sure ALL the diodes are 90 degrees to the optical rail and at the same height. Glue the dichros on the mm1 so they stick up in the beam path. Use the mm1 to align the beams. Add your scanners. Box it up. Put supplies and drivers on underside of plate.

    I am truly concerned for your safety. I am the senior director of safety at a major USA university. I responded as I would any new person here. I'm not insulting you. I truly care you get into this artform in the proper way. Please do have someone guide you the first time you do this. AND WEAR GOGGLES! I think it was the talk about burning stuff that got my hair up. It makes you sound foolish and cavalier(pun in there for those who know were I live). Your English is actually pretty good. Your attitude not so much.

    Don't assume people are attacking you. We care about each other here but we are harsh when needed and we make sure you start off safely. Burning stuff is well just not safe operation of a laser unless its in a device that shields the user such as in a laser cutter.

    Welcome to PL. Please do not hesitate to continue asking questions.

  7. #7
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    Bradfo69 is offline Pending BST Forum Purchases: $47,127,283.53
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    I'm not understanding one part of what you said in the original post. You said in your questions that "it must not be green".
    .
    Are you saying that when you are done, you want to have a different color than green? Such as the blue projector you linked to? Or, can it still be green?
    .
    Green is the easiest color for the eye to see so, it doesn't take a lot of power to look really bright as compared to red or blue. I don't think you'll notice much difference between 532nm and 520nm. And if you only are going for a single color projector, then the yellow it has the potential to make is irrelevant. And no, you don't want to look for a yellow laser. While they can be found and, are pretty awesome, they're pretty expensive too. If your goal is to get this projector as bright as possible while staying legally under 500mW, then you want to still consider going with green and using a diode as was suggested above. DPSS is a dying technology thanks to diodes. If you want a nice looking little projector, the idea of going for the DTR kit with red, green and blue single mode diodes is an excellent idea. Everything should fit inside your case but, it's an awful lot of time and money to do it yourself - unles you want the knowledge of experience. It's simply cheaper to buy a new laser. It's sort of like computers - we all used to build our own because it was often cheaper (and we could pick and choose the components. These days, computers are so stupid cheap, why waste your own valuable time to build one.
    PM Sent...

  8. #8
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    Hey guys.

    Thanks a lot for answers. Now i feel that i am back on the track. Now i have to process this and decide how to proceed.
    Glad to be a little bit wiser.

    Maybe i write again on this thread when i have done some searching.

    /Thanks a lot =)

  9. #9
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    One more thing.

    Is it smarter to bet you money into a module like this or is is better to search for a 500mw green laser?

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/RGB-500mW-St...EAAOxyAZ9SRQmw

    /Fredrik

  10. #10
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    note about safety: If you align the lasers while they are running at very low power, it is not just safer, but easier. And align them while they are pointed at a dark matt surface.

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