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Thread: Simpledrive (5) issues.

  1. #31
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    @ "Any chance a capacitor before the driver would smooth the PSU spikes if there are any? "

    Don't think the SwMode PSU would really appreciate driving into a large capacitive load on startup, however once started it would certainly smooth ripples depending on the capacity in question.

    Either way this might be a bum steer but the car battery would remove any possible doubts, if you get same readings it means problem is NOT the PSU at all.

    Cheers
    PS. A pot across the car battery voltage could also supply you with a nice smooth modulation voltage which you can set with your multimeter.

  2. #32
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    The driver has ceramic and electrolytic capacitors to suppress ripples.

    Did you measure 1-4W DPSS before or 200mW only?
    Again, Laserbee shows the correct power output from my DPSS modules as it did before.
    I feel 2W 638nm... Red has a weaker ability to burn the skin at the same power than blue and green wl
    And again, if red was actualy outputting more than 600mW, and even above 1W I think I would feel something from such focused beam on my palm.

  3. #33
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    1) I couldn't get anyone's car battery today, but I got a 12V UPS battery. Will that do? It made no difference than with PSU

    2) PSU voltage in AC mode shows 0. That means were cool, right?

    3) I measured with a 1W blue DPSS also. Everything with the power meter seems fine.

    4) With DAC and LSX I got a bit less of power, definitely not more. But this is expected I think with modulation, I measured the current on the driver and LSX was drawing less current, manually increasing the current with the pot gave the same power output.

    And nowI'm clueless again...

  4. #34
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    3 cell li-po or li-ion battery will work too.
    1) I couldn't get anyone's car battery today, but I got a 12V UPS battery. Will that do? It made no difference than with PSU
    Yes, it means that your source does not have an AC impurity and 99% everything is fine with it.
    2) PSU voltage in AC mode shows 0. That means were cool, right?
    This is normal, none of the QS/LSX patterns has a 100% duty cycle, 95-97% max. + signal amplitude depends on the voltage in usb
    With DAC and LSX I got a bit less of power, definitely not more. But this is expected I think with modulation, I measured the current on the driver and LSX was drawing less current, manually increasing the current with the pot gave the same power output.

  5. #35
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    Oh boy... what's going on here?...

    I even tried testing the G2 and 3 element glass lenses whether they were plastic, they didn't melt even at focused 3W beam passing through them. It's from Techood, number of people here buy from him. But even assuming the coating was bad (never heard that) 40%-50% power loss would be too much I think for this to be the case.

    Does the driver maybe have some current limiting safety mechanism when the thermistor isn't connected? (it's not)

    Let's assume for a moment the power meter reading above certain power level is messed up for some reason. Any way to guess whether the red is above or below 1W when not having a second power meter? Ex. burning/igniting certain type of material?

  6. #36
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    Ok so the most likely suspect has now been eliminated.

    This now starts to get a bit difficult to fathom Click image for larger version. 

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    I am afraid that with those voltage measurements (and nothing wierd going on in the time domain unless introduced by the driver itself,) next up, are the diodes themselves.

    Where did you get them and where are you located ?

    Cheers
    Last edited by catalanjo; 03-28-2017 at 13:23.

  7. #37
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    Diodes are from Techood (ebay). Few people here buy from him.
    The green and blue diodes had to be decanned as they have that fixed focus lens on them. I'm not aware of any other green diode besides the NUGM01 looking like that. So I don't think I was given a weaker diode. As for the blue, there are several other NUBM diodes with such stock lens but the 465nm is clearly distinguishable for me and I'm not aware of a weaker 465nm diode looking like this I could be scammed to buy. As for the reds, I don't know, are there weaker open can 5.6mm red diodes out there that can be made to run at 600mW without killing them?

    Other possible causes could be the collimator lenses and also the laser power meter, which I talked about in my previous post.

    These, as well as the driver are literally the only things I can think of that could cause this issue. Can anyone think of anything else? I'm willing to experiment but I can't.

    PS. Is there a safe way to clean a LPM sensor? I don't think I ever thouched it but at this point I'll try anything.

  8. #38
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    No, you could see this when you read the current in the anode circuit break
    Does the driver maybe have some current limiting safety mechanism when the thermistor isn't connected?
    P73 diodes not work effectively with these lenses (too high FA divergence), to get the ~90% of raw power, you should use short-focus lenses - 2...3EFL. I can't say right now how much of optical power you can get with P73 and "G2"
    I even tried testing the G2 and 3 element glass lenses whether they were plastic
    And one more clarifying question about NUBM - may be a diode was damaged when you remove the built-in lens?

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bbe View Post
    P73 diodes not work effectively with these lenses (too high FA divergence), to get the ~90% of raw power, you should use short-focus lenses - 2...3EFL. I can't say right now how much of optical power you can get with P73 and "G2"
    Does this also apply to the 3 element glass lenses?
    Anyway, I though the issue here was divergence, not power loss. DTR has tried with both, I can ask him about nthe power loss with g2.

    And one more clarifying question about NUBM - may be a diode was damaged when you remove the built-in lens?
    Well, a reminder, there's two of green and two of blue, all have the exact same issue.
    Assuming I damaged all 4, then the first thing I did after removing the cans was checking them with a magnifier, the strands aren't damaged. That's all I can see.

  10. #40
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    @ "Diodes are from Techood (ebay). Few people here buy from him."
    Have you tried contacting him about this issue?

    R U in US or EU?

    ...or none of the above?

    Cheers

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