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I went with the w500 first for the same reason but I heard rumors that the red diode used in it wasn't as good as in the lower power bricks. I'm giving it a try. I still have my W500 (now with a replacement blue laser) and may end up using it in this project.
Just a quick question regarding how one achieves the analogue colour selection & blanking.
So the control software running on the laptop (e.g. Pangolin) generates the 'data' to control the laser & galvos, which is then passed to the external DAC via a USB lead?
The DAC then converts this data into analogue voltages of say 0v to +- 5v for each of the X & Y galvos? Presumably using some 8 bit DAC ICs. These voltages are passed to the projector via a standard ILDA connector/pin out? Somehow the R, G & B analogue modulation voltages of 0 to +5v for 0 to 100% are also present within this connector?
These X & Y galvo & the RGB analogue modulation voltages pass to the projector, possibly going through an ILDA Break-Out Box, before being distributed to the galvo drive boards & the R, G & B laser modules?
Thus the control software on the laptop is in direct control of all aspects of the R, G & B intensity levels & the X & Y position of the galvo scanners?
If that is fundamentally the way things are done, what are the options for DAC & Control Software? The choice of these are the only components of the system that can vary, if everything downstream of the ILDA standard connector is built iaw the ILDA Standard Projector.
So examples I know of are Pangolin Quickshow running with their FB1 DAC, but there must be others, like LSX & Popelscan Control Software & RIYA, Norms & other DACs.
Just wondering how/what the combinations of Control Software & DACs are if I want to run blanked RGB graphics like the cute dog above. Especially any freeware/open source or budget configurations, like this iShow I keep seeing on eBay!
Many thanks,
Simon B.
run a search for Ishow user opinions here...
Your assumptions are right, but note that there are at least 5 DAC channels in each controller board: X, Y, R, G, B.
The FB3 is locked down to Quickshow and other Pangolin software (requiring an additional fee). Upside is that it comes with a great amount of preprogrammed shows, is user friendly and has great customer support. Downsides are that it is kinda expensive for what it is (unless you are one of those guys who calls $600 a "hobbyist price") and all upgrades to better software tiers (like Beyond) are even more expensive (Quickshow itself is pretty basic).
There is no real freeware/open source laser show software that can output to a DAC. There is some free software out there that can process Ilda files (such as my own IldaViewer), which you can put onto an SD card.
The Riya is a pretty cheap DAC so if you want absolutely cheapest while still functional, that'd be your choice. But if you want best price/quality ratio, search for Etherdream. The price tag is very OK! Best thing is that the API is open source as well so you could try to develop your own programs if you'd like.
For software, I like LSX a lot, but drlava seems very hard to get a hold of these days. The community can help you with the artistic side of things and help you out when stuck (there are always ways to do the things you want and usually hidden under a pile of expressions or hidden buttons), but other than that there is virtually no customer support. You'll need to be lucky to order it when drlava is sending out his products and not hiding somewhere...
Don't fall for iShow. It doesn't work on 64 bit computers. It barely works on others.
(Quoted from page 1)Quote:
Originally Posted by JRGixxerfreaK1
This is probably a bit late for the reply but Yes, i have an 800mW version of that cube and i have converted it over to a Badpip 4ch driver ;) Works like a champ after a year of use But as CMB said they are downright stupidly hard to ajust, the glue they use is a bit flexible on the dichros but you cant ajust them as they will just slowly return to the original possition. I'll link some pics to the cube ;) (I also did a teardown of a DOA i got).
Teardown:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1T...it?usp=sharing
Experimenting with drivers:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1T...it?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1T...it?usp=sharing
Its not mindblowing good quality but hey its under the $200 mark. The beam is not very alligned after about 20-30 ish meters and you can allmost make out the three dots. but thats easily fixed by adding 2 flexmounts (I haven't yet) but the color mix on my 800mW version is decent.
Its cheap, Its china, If you can afford the price its probably worth it just for a miniprojector ;) That is if you dont get DTR's Awesome RGB bundle.
Video showing my RGB briks colormix:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T8a66y4t5c4
-Hybrid
To fit flex mounts in to those bricks you need the right mounts. As the usual mounts associated with being called 'flex mounts' are actually too big.
Here is a picture of the inside of a brick that came with brass flex mounts
Attachment 43094
And some close ups (the small squares are 1mm)
Attachment 43095
Attachment 43096
Attachment 43097
I don't know where to get these mounts, but if someone out there does, I'd be interested to know as I have another brick with the round ally mounts I would love to change.
To be fair, if you're paying RRP then you're probably shopping in the wrong places.Quote:
unless you are one of those guys who calls $600 a "hobbyist price"
You should be able to pick it up for at least 75% of that, but suppliers are not allowed to advertise it generally for that. Try sending a few emails to the known suppliers and see what comes back.
http://shop.stanwaxlaser.co.uk/brass...ount-228-p.aspQuote:
I don't know where to get these mounts, but if someone out there does, I'd be interested to know as I have another brick with the round ally mounts I would love to change.
Single or bulk buy options
I have plenty, $15AUD each
Quote:
Originally Posted by WolfMax
Ah... They are what I was talking about when I said "the usual mounts associated with being called 'flex mounts' are actually too big"Quote:
Originally Posted by norty303
If you compare what you linked to with the pictures I posted, you can see what makes the difference in height.
Thanks for the input though.