No disagreement here. :)
I figured, worst case, letting out the magic smoke on some phoenix dragon tiger galvos is much less painful than the original cambridges... My first set of cambridges cost over $3k! (though it included a 3rd galvo set for blanking)... but at the time I felt everything about them was nice since I no longer had to deal with the stupid torsion bars (yuck)... The fragility of GSIs made me want to guard the stupid scanheads with a ruler and smack every finger that went near the unpowered galvos and shout "No ger-finger-poken!" in a bad german accent. What is with people's fingers and attraction to moving mirrors? I figure there's a phd paper in there somewhere...
IMHO as long as you're sane and follow the instructions exactly, you won't put too much wear on the galvos... In fact the DT-40's have a 3rd hidden protection mechanism... the provided power supplies will let out the magic smoke long before you achieve a full aggressive tune on the scanheads... thus saving you from having to replace the fuse. The newer DT drivers implemented temperature stuff, but I always felt it was a bandaid... if your galvo gets too hot to touch you have bigger problems.
IIRC Cambridge's max rated coil temperature was hotter than boiling water! So my Mk.IV fingers made for a great temp guage...
In all seriousness, If the previous post wasn't clear, the scanhead will audibly complain when it hits the resonant frequency... that point is right when you *really* want to stop scanning... and setting the notch filter should be done with the scanner muted...

