na ive got everything to buuld my own but cheers
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na ive got everything to buuld my own but cheers
I was thinking about doing a multi red but was worried about cooling.
How cool do these (diodes) need to be to run properly? Is that Alum casing enough?
a single 40W TEC will easily cope with heath... something like 20°C regulated permanent cooling is easy to design and low cost (current source powering the TEC, and you tune the pot til it reaches 20°C)
I would cool it as much as you can! You will get a lower wavelength, usually around 0.3nm/C so you can get it nice and low.
Nice work, sbk.
I like that alot. :D
Yes, I already placed the entire module on a 40x40mm TEC, but not yet powered :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Laser Ben
I have a BIG problem right now, anf it seems to come from that module... I have a major event tomorrow, I installed the projector and all that, but I noticed that RED laser was on full power all the time!!! I discovered it was a strange ground loop between my portable computer and the projector. I corrected the problem by removing the earth on my portable computer power supply.
But some hours later, the problem reappeared, and nothing to do to correct it!!! I think it's a problem on the RED module and its driver (FlexMod N2).
So I am really really annoyed... Does anyone can help me before I return to the location tomorrow?
I posted that here too : http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...099#post101099
Put an isolation transformer in the projector.
I'm not sure it will work. The ground is going from my portable computer to the USB to the FB3, which go to the projector ground.
Maybe I should remove the earth or ground connection on the FB3, but don't really know why doing that...
Nice job. I also have a similar project in the works for a couple of weeks now. About 1/3 the size of your setup. Sneak P. Possible problem in not isolating the diode from the base...addition of TEC cooling would solve this. I use a small spot of TORR SEAL to bond things up.
sbk, very nice workmanship! I like the design. I can see that you isolated the diode cathodes from the casing with thermal pads, good but I see some gaps in the insulation at pressure points. Make sure that this hasn't shorted out for any of them. You can do a reistance measurement with the power off from the diode case to the mounts. Other than that, the driver operation is simple: mod- is the same potential as power -, the controller should drive mod+ from 0 (off) to 5V (full on)