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Switching to blue+green LED wouldn't be that easy, as You would have to make a separate switch for the LEDs, synchronised with phosphor wheel controller.
All this in order to emit blue only when blue is required, then only grenn when required.
I guess in no color wheel DLP projector, the sources are switched on sequentially, with green being a result of blue emission + proper phase of phosphor wheel.
Piotr.K
I see what your saying..ugh that sounds a like a heck of a lot of work...has anyone ie member of this forum sucessfully thrown a decent to great image without using the lasers? anyone?
still can't get the Red LED to light... maybe we need some of that data on the removed pins going to the LD/LED driver board?
Is the Red led a constant burn? or does it fluctuate in intensity according to whatever is on the screen? i was going to suggest running the LED on its own independent driver/power source so its always on,but the projector microprocessor (its gotta have one for self checks) might pick that up and throw the shutoff or standby code....the pins you speak of,are these the pins on the flex connector that we were told to isolate? or something else entirely?Quote:
Originally Posted by flecom
ya two of the pins that were isolated were something TX and something RX
not sure if it burns constantly... i would imagine not... but I think we would be ok if it ran all the time for testing
hmm to my understanding RX means to receive and TX means to Transmit... this sucks i haven't gotten my projectors yet (still trying DTR middle of the month usually sucks) so im using this forum to "bone up" on all the modding procedures and the trial and error. If someone could be so kind as to re-cap what connectors we are supposed to isolate (i believe #4 we didnt need to isolate,i remember seeing that in a previous post) that would be great. Ive saved the pictures showing where to place the short wire,which brings me to this question,could a thin piece of piano wire or guitar wire be used for the short wire to short the c509 connector? i was just wondering as i do not have anything incredibly small (just lots of 10 and 12 awg automotive wire) or would it throw things wacky if i were to just clip the tail off a resistor/transistor of some sort and use that (my pops told me the guitar or piano wire might not sodder correctly but i wanted others opinions on this)Quote:
Originally Posted by flecom
what if we were to systematically isolate each connector from the system and notate its function or lack of function,and then systematically short each contact pad to see its function/ lack of function,this is the only way i can think of that will help us find out why the red led is not coming on when the c509 is properly shorted and the connectors everything properly isolated. lol as i am still a noob to this forum if this has been previously done,please disregard me as a rambling fool that i am.lol.
thanks everyone for your input,advice and recommendations,they are greatly appreciated.
thanks
Keith.
yes RX = receive TX = transmit
I havent had time to look in depth at what exactly this mod is doing, but from what I can tell so far it is completely cutting off commjnication between the projector motherboard and the laser/led driver board. I do know that the same microprocessor that runs the lasers is wired to run the red led, so at first glance it looks like it will require more than just simple rewiring to get the red led going. This advancement is really great for me, now I no longer need to trick the projector into thinking the driver board is in tact, and just need to spoof the projector side to convince the driver board to turn on the led.
The idea of using an external driver may be the best bet, beacuse it will allow you to run the red led continuously, so that you see the red greed and blue parts of the image (all in red of course) giving a much more 'normal' looking image than having just the red channel.
Ive been talking with Caleb aka Boldsword via email and he has said that he got his projector running by the following method that i have cut and copied an pasted
"you only need to have pins 4 and 9 on the connector to the main board jumped out and it will run. However in order to get the red to light the laser power supply needs to sense that it's driving a load, so you gotta pick up some power resistors."
he said this method got his going with a rudimentary picture also-
"I'm gonna take a pic of what I did to my projo, I can't tell you if the buttons on top still work, b/c my cat killed that part for me remember? All my functions work perfectly with the remote, I even took one of my small lasers and dropped it inside so that it shone down the light path the way the factory lasers do, and I had picture and everything ( a small dim picture lol, but it wan only one poorly aimed laser, and the batteries are low.).
All I did on mine was short two pads with a jumper wire, so it's even simpler than what you put.
I don't have any power resistors yet, gonna pick some up. I ran a small resistor bank just to verify that I would get the red to light and it worked perfectly, until my resistors went up in smoke lol. Didn't hurt anything, just need to get some more serious resistors, I was only using half watt resistors, when the resistors needed should be like 20 watt lol.
I'll try and take some pics."
Caleb/ Boldsword...please please take pics.i cant wait to see them try this on mine
thanks
Keith.
thats like what Krazer did initially... used some big resistors as a dummy load