Printable View
Looking for advise for 12mm-25mm dia. or square aperture optics for steering 532 nm beams. Which would be the best; prisms, cubes or dielectric mirrors? I am working with polarized light, but not always in the most favorable orientation and usually at a 45 degree AOI. I am looking for very low loss and low price if possible (who isn't).
Thanks
heya Chief - :cool:
I'd go for mirs vs Prisms - less loss, overall, especially if the prism isn't AR-coated for 532.. have a couple of these pups:
http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...0&d=1328383874
http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...chmentid=30299 - ..25mm, 3/8" th. - they'll handle all the 532 you can toss at 'em... :)
...this particular one is *tenatively* 'reserved' for a fellow PL'er - waiting to hear-back 'final-word' via PM.. but, we do have a couple more... :cool:
Outside that, we've always had good results with the OSLS 'aerospace-grade' 100W BB dielectric - http://www.onestoplasershop.com/optical.htm (..scroll-down a little bit..) the 1mm is fine, for galvo-mirs, etc but the 3mm th. stuff is best for any 'brute-power' turns.. very, very-low loss @ 532... I actually have to place an order with them, for a bit of each thickness, in the next week or so - perhaps we can do a bit of a 'GB', between us?... :cool:
Lemme know, and.. also that 'other PM', :p ..when you get a chance.. Feel free to call / chat, as-well.. I'll be logging off here, in a short bit.. :
cheers..
j
Hey Jon,if Planters wants the mirror I can do without one for the time being and funds are a little low. I'd rather pick a few other bits up first for some extra satellites.
Back to the Superbowl.
Cheers
Rich
ok, m8... we'll see what Cap'n Meyer says.. it'll be here, if not, and... there's 3 anyway.. :cool: PS - Edmunds is also a good-resource for 532-coated rounds, but, a bit 'pricey', ie: this spec's-mir is about $150... :o
cheers..
j
I do have what I believe are the OSLS mirrors and that is what I am trying to improve on. Didn't measure, but the rejected/scattered light even from a very clean and unscratched mirror at approx 15 W is unpleasant to look at. I want every W possible into the dye.
You're pumping a dye laser? =]
Yes. The purpose of the 532 light is as a dye pump. And so optical quality should not be too important as in 0.5mm spot size over several hundred mm and I would think if you only care about 532 nm then maybe there is a high performance/cost alternative to the BBR mirrors generally used. I really want to see some yellow light.
That 1" OEM LS 532 round will do the trick - doesn't get much-more efficient than that... at least not for 'also-cheap'... :pQuote:
Originally Posted by planters
RE: the OSLS-mir - hmm, sure it's the 'true' 100W aerospace-grade? We've always had great results with the 3mm-th stuff... if 'spill' is annoying, try a 'hoodie' ;) -
Attachment 30387 ...but yeah, for a true 'loss-reading', ya gotta measure.. eyes, judging from scatter, is not quite so accurate.. :)
ttys..
j
Yes. They have been cutting custom 3mm thick mirrors for me for some time. The mirrors are good and I am the last one to base reflection performance on just visual appearance, but when compared side by side to the LS optics they are MUCH brighter, so the OEM LS is going to be the way to go.
Believe it or not, its not a quality issue. It is, however, a design issue. The OSLS mirrors are leaking and scattering a tiny bit more, simply because they ARE broadband. Your seeing green scatter off the red layers in the broadband mirror.
The 532 nm only mirrors can be eaily optimized for less loss with fewer layers.
To get the same low scatter in a broadband mirror you need "Ion Plated" broadband mirrors, and those are not inexpensive.
Steve
Yes, that's just the point. I have a couple of narrow band PBS cubes from JML that are clearly superior to the broad band versions and cheaper than equivalent broad band cubes. That is why I began this thread with the idea that if you know ahead of time what wavelength you want to manipulate, then a narrow band optic is a better choice.
Check.. :cool: I'll bring it to NY / NH, and you can 'try before you buy', how does that sound? Then, if it works out good, we can do a 'cash n' carry'... :p But even-so, don't forget that simple - but effective - 'hoodie' idea for the 'overspill' - I put 'hoodies' on just about all bounce-points, etc, whenever-possible.. even over galvo-blox, etc - Safer, and much-easier to work on the deck, 'visually', even-if 'scatter' is-reduced with a narrow-band mir, like these...Quote:
Originally Posted by planters
..and you don't need to 'always use' those oem deck beam-stops, like in that pix-example, since those are of limited-supply, with the OEM-decks - just cut-up some 12-gauge black-ano'd plate, and epoxy or screw into-place.. :cool:
ttys..
j