Hey...Need a few Dichro's...Anyone in the USA stock and sell'em ??
Thanx !!
Printable View
Hey...Need a few Dichro's...Anyone in the USA stock and sell'em ??
Thanx !!
Are Fred and Amanda back around? That's is where I got mine. http://onestoplasershop.com/
I called OSLS today....no answer....Dunno If they are around ??
.
LSP has em !!!.....of course...I may have what I need...somewhere....but.
.
where...probably have EVERTHING else !!
.
In this set up....Red is first into the bounce, then Blue and then Green...
.
Yes....I know this is....well wrong....but....It must be in this order !
.
SO...Pass Red, Reflect Blue....and Pass Red/Blue, Reflect Green....
.
Thanx...CDBEAM
this may be a stupid question on my part but i did not know there was a certain order for the lasers to be in? on a home made projector?
I had thought people just assembled them with what Dichro's they happened to have, kinda like the one i made from Dichro's scavenged from a failed Sony LCoS light engine, it has a reflect blue and pass red/green and a reflect red and kinda pass green. they used two of that type to try and eliminate all other colors but red for the red LCoS device, the passed green just hits the black housing but they are crappy at that, some green does reflect and i think that is why they used 2 identical dichro's to get rid of any blue/green that does reflect.
that has me looking for a dichro that will pass green and reflect red, mine is wasting quite a bit of the green
Well...typically....one selects the LD with the lowest power....and THAT is the LD that is placed last in the optical train.....because....that LD will be the limit on your white balance. IIRC....the optimal ratio is
2 : 1 : 1 Red : Green : Blue
.
Typically, these days...we are starved for RED.....SO....it is logical that the Red LD be placed last in the Dichroic line up....because....in this pattern, the Red beam passes thru the least amount of optics....so endures the least amount of optical loss.
.
Unfortunately....in my set-up....I am using a dual 63193 unit, and a single NUGT01T and a single NUBM07W.
.
The footprint of the dual and my space constraints force the Red LD to be first....so...for the Red LD....I will lose about 5% for the first Dichro....and then another 5% for the second Dichro...That is just the way it is !
.
Beam out
.
Note: Found the Dichro's that I need....deep in the bottom of the Box!
Thanks for that explanation, when i eventually rebuild the projector into a full fledged graphics projector i will switch some stuff around.
In my set up my green laser is the really weak one, it's a 25mw dpss made in 2003, I have not been able to find a replacement pump diode as it's an odd mount, looks like a c-mount but is mounted flat with the beam inline with the mount, rather then at a 90 degree angle in a normal c-mount, it used to produce about 80mw when cranked up, but it's driver is now at it's current limit, it has a lot of time on it, i got 6 of these in 2005 and had about 1000 hours on them (from what i was told), the epoxy bonding the IR filter to the OC had even failed on a few that i later fixed.
I now have a 520nm green but for some reason still like the 532nm Crystalaser relics. To date only one had to be scraped and i learned quite a bit off of them, the manufacture is totally useless for any support, and thats why i don't know what the mount type is for the pump, i made my own set of schematics for them as well.
after reading this thread i think i now know why i have so much loss for the green, my angle of incidence is wrong for the green laser, that's my working theory anyway.
Glad to hear you found your Dichro's, i covet the few i have, when i found out how much they can cost if i break one i moved them to a safer box.
For future reference, OneStopLaserShop has closed it's doors forever. The company filed for bankruptcy protection and liquidated their assets. The last of their inventory (in a storage unit) was auctioned off earlier this year. Fred and Amanda have been incommunicado since last fall. I do not expect that they will return to the laser industry any time soon, if ever. They will surely be missed.
If you are looking for a US-based company that can supply optics (including dichros), I would suggest Edmund's Optics. I've used their stuff in the past, and it's reasonably priced and the quality is good. Another good choice would be Semrock, although their prices are usually higher.
Also, George Mack (Dream Beamz here on PL) has a limited supply of repair and surplus parts for some of the old OSLS products, including X-29 / Full Auto and the dual-beam Melles Griot DPSS green lasers often found on the old Mobolazer beam rails. Contact him if you have specific items you are looking for that OSLS used to sell, and he might be able to hook you up.
Adam
:cat:
Adam, many thanks for this OSLS info ....had a feeling this might happen! :(
Cheers :)
Adam, Why is the web site still up?
Steve
Well....Edmonds Optics has good schizz....true
But....See here !!
.
http://www.edmundoptics.com/optics/o...-filters/2433/
.
Ahh....hum....OK ....25mm round closest to what I typically use ( $ 75 a pop )....which is 10 mm x 20mm....yea..I know....buy a 35mm square ( $ 100 a pop )....and have fun cutting the cheese !!!!..Score....and snap....sounds ez-sleezy..but...it is always a surprise as to what ya get !!!!...mmmmm ???
.
Rather give Dave/LSP the business....and pay extra for the quick ship !!
.
Anyway...found what I needed..... "buried in da box"....so...Po ah donk awn et !!!
.
Thanx for the info Adam !!
i found a diamond dremel cutting wheel with lots of water for lubrication and cooling works well for cutting thin glass, my galvo mirrors i cut along with a few others i tape the glass in kapton tape and use duct tape to make kind of a channel to hold the water and just go slow, mike a cut line with the wheel that's shallow then go back over and make it a little deeper and it almost always works, if the glass cracks it has been under the first scoring line with the cutting wheel
Because like many people who host their site with a third party, they paid for several years of hosting up front. When that contract runs out, the site will go down and stay down forever.
You'll notice that the site hasn't been updated in well over a year. And if you try looking up the owner on whois, you'll get the same dead-end phone numbers and addresses listed on the site.
Basically the site has been abandoned, but since no one cancelled the hosting contract it will stay on-line until that contract expires. (If I remember correctly when I looked them up, it's due to expire next year sometime.)
I agree that Edmunds' stuff isn't cheap. Although Semrock is even more expensive. I would not try to cut those Edmund dichros either. I've always used them just as they come.
Your initial question specifically asked for US suppliers. Dave is in Australia.Quote:
Rather give Dave/LSP the business....and pay extra for the quick ship !!
That being said, I do agree that his dichros are good, and his pricing is also better than what you can get here in the US. But that's not what you asked for.
Adam
Well....Having an excessive degree impatience....Shipping from "Down Under"....unless one goes DHL....always seems like a long wait !! SO....I suppose the reasonable priced options are;
.
1) LSP=Australia
2) Lasertack=Germany
3) Stanwax=British Isle
.
ALL have really good optics...good prices....just a little wait !!
.
ALL good people !!! Not listed in order of preference !!!!!
.
Likely...Lasertack and Stanwax take a little less time to get to the USA.
.
As to scoring with a dremel and cutting...sure....but...the coating on the typical Dichro is a sensitive bugger !!!...Least amount of handling is the best course...depends on how OCD ya are !!
Later....
.
CDBEAM=======>
I haven't bought optics from Dave/LSP but I have bought some from a well known member vendor on here (China based). His dichros were supposed to be the bomb. I bought some thinking they would be better than the Edmunds optics I was using. Long story short, they were no better and were in fact worse. They had a weird sweet spot reflection angle (around 35 degrees instead of 45 degrees) and since I didn't want to change the layout of my projector they really lost a lot of power.
I am all for supporting the little guys but I have no idea how things like dichros are made but I do know you can't make them in your garage and probably require some pretty high tech equipment. So, for something like that I'm skipping the mom/pop shop unless they have some spec sheets or can quote where the optics comes from.
I bought some from onestoplaser shop before the trouble period and Fred had worked out a deal with I think it was semrock. Had spec sheets. We were trying to find 520 dichro. Never did work out. Did anyone find reliable 520 dichroic? Sure dichro works but it all leaks bad or doesn't pass the blue or red. I solved it by putting green first. Most pass green reflect red and pass red and green pass blue works fine. Now that I think of it why are we not just using long pass dichros. Single cut off getting longer. I.e. For blue a low pass at say 500. For green low pass at 560. And use a 45 mirror for the red. Now you order in terms of wavelength. Could revers it with high pass if you want. Point is you could use some sloppy 45 filters with cut offs well away from your diodes wavelength. Just have to check for weird peaks. Aren't those kind of filters pretty cheap? Maybe just ineffiencient or eats power on transmission? Well when you have 5w or more I can live with 10% or even 20% loss. 4w vs 5w. Is not visible.
I have a dicho that has contamination on it, i dont know if it was from fungus or some other contaminant but when i find it i will try cutting it up to see how that works out, it has one good spot i will try to save and try to protect that spot with kapton tape. I use a diamond wheel made for cutting glass and use water as a coolant. I do know that the normal cut off wheels will NOT work, ruined a good mirror with that experiment.
I made a thread as well on how i cut these