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Nice one Andy, how much did that set you back....did you get the pull out shelves?
£160 well the two aluminium shelfs are only screwed in, so yes
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all the equipment that needs to be fitted :(
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Hi andy that looks top notch
im guessing that is mild steel ( apart from the shelves )
i would suggest that you get that stove enamelled Matt Black inside and out, that will minimise any stray reflections and stop rusting
Dont think about spraying yourself, as over time spray paint will start to flake and it will need to be de-greased properly
a great case mate ..... and it will be a 2 man lift when full :D
all the best ..... Karl
Dont think about spraying yourself - say again????Quote:
Originally Posted by Banthai
yes they told me to spray inside and out to stop rusting
its pretty heavy at the mo LOL maybe need 3 people to lift it, i hope my stand holds it
cheers mate
Looks like a very strong enclosure Andy
Karl's right, I would get all the apertures cut in now and drop the casing off to be stove enamelled or powder coated. Home painting is ok, but the other coatings are both more even and durable. Don't be tempted to get it painted at a car body shop either.Quote:
Originally Posted by andy_con
You can spray the ally base plates yourself with a good aerosol etch primer and matt/satin black.
.
honestly andy .... if you dont get it degreased proffesionally the paint wont key to the metal .... if small particals of paint flake off it can get into the scanner bearings and optics etc....
its a really great case.... but dont rush it now .... and as p1t8ull says get the apertures cut prior to the paint job. and you will end up with one of the best cases i have seen
all the best ... Karl
pffff powder coating!!!
i was gona use white spirt to clean then spray??
I second the powder coating. It shouldn't cost too much if you find the right place. I know of a great place here in Denver Colorado but that probably won't help you much. Talk to the place that did the sheet metal. they should have some recommendations for you.
If you insist on painting it your self then use a good rust inhibiting primer first after a through cleaning. I would use lots of acetone. And remember that after it is cleaned you can not touch it with your bare hands without cleaning again. Oils from your skin are enough to cause problems.
CHad
i hear what your all saying but for the moment its gona have to be a no no. im penny less, im gona have to spray it my self.
i have those laytex gloves so it should be fine
cheers guys
I do like the two storey construction, makes for a nice tidy optical platform! :)
thanks and yes it sure does.
gona get my final holes cut tomorrow andit should be ready weekend for spraying
I have sprayed lots of stuff and never have flaking. The key is to clean really well to get all the oils off. For that you could get away with soap and water. Just dry it well. Then scuff it with some fine sandpaper. Then reclean. After cleaning using rubber gloves to prevent oil from your fingers getting on it. Use a tack rag to get dust off. Tack rags are sticky cheese cloth things. You open up the package, wad them up, and just lightly dust the surface of the metal with it. Then spray with primer, then paint. I usually do one coat of primer and 2 or 3 light coats of paint. I allow it to flash between coats so that all the layers chemically bond together.
I learned to do this when I restored my car.
Don't use white spirit whatever you do! that'll leave a greasy layer that'll ruin any attempt to paint it.Quote:
Originally Posted by andy_con
Try to get it properly coated, it's easy now and to paint it properly will not cost much less...
If you do paint yourself, key the metal with some 240(ish) grit paper, wipe off the worst and degrease with panel wipe or cheap cellulose thinners (do this outside and be careful as thinners stinks and is highly flammable!) DON'T use white spirit/paraffin/petrol etc.
Then use a good primer, preferably acid etch (U-POL do something called acid #8) then your choice of paint, and not too thick.
You can get ahold of degreasers fairly easily. we always used simple green to prep steel for welding and it seemed to do ok for that, but I can't really testify for just painting steel. as for the paint, you should definitely prime first, and thin coats are the way to go. also, if you have time, spray one thin coat per day. the dry time is a little excessive, but you'll make sure to get a nice, hard coat of paint that way. also of note: if you don't get fancy with the design, you can just re-spray it later on if you need to.
Quote:
Originally Posted by carmangary
Quote:
Don't use white spirit whatever you do! that'll leave a greasy layer that'll ruin any attempt to paint it.
Try to get it properly coated, it's easy now and to paint it properly will not cost much less...
If you do paint yourself, key the metal with some 240(ish) grit paper, wipe off the worst and degrease with panel wipe or cheap cellulose thinners (do this outside and be careful as thinners stinks and is highly flammable!) DON'T use white spirit/paraffin/petrol etc.
Then use a good primer, preferably acid etch (U-POL do something called acid #8) then your choice of paint, and not too thick.
its already been keyed, so thats ok.Quote:
You can get ahold of degreasers fairly easily. we always used simple green to prep steel for welding and it seemed to do ok for that, but I can't really testify for just painting steel. as for the paint, you should definitely prime first, and thin coats are the way to go. also, if you have time, spray one thin coat per day. the dry time is a little excessive, but you'll make sure to get a nice, hard coat of paint that way. also of note: if you don't get fancy with the design, you can just re-spray it later on if you need to.
dont use white spirt! but i can use soap and water to clean it? thats cool.
i got some metal primer from B&Q last night so i might start weekend
Andy
Do it well .... cos your going to have 30 pairs of eyes inspecting soon :D
Your case looks fantastic , its amazing you have put so much effort into it ..and financials of course ..as well as patience !
I am very much looking forward to seeing it at the meet and i will bring a magnifying glass to inspect your paint Job ;)
PAUL
LOL, i went to the metal place after i made that post. they have keyed it and done some cleaning to get rid of oil etc. they still said to clean it but spraying wont be a problem and they have never had one flake. so fingers crossed
ok ive im doing the hard part, trying to work out where everything goes alignment wise
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hi andy its looking good
one thing i noticed, ask around but i think you should put red first it is the weakest of all the colours for us to see putting it first will minimise optical losses on red i have already been there and made that mistake by putting red the wrong side of green on my rgy and losing lots of red power :)
no no no my friend ;)
i dont care if i loose a little red, but i do care if i loose some blue!
i thought it was all about getting colour balance right you will get bright green bright blue and unless you put in at least 400mw red in that position the colours will come out all odd then again i am fairly new to this and could be wrong :)
400 is what ive got :)
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ahh 400mw made by rob fogot about that mybad i will shut up now:D
see u @uklem
regards
chris:)
its cool man its cool.
although i am green less at the moment, it stil hasnt reached china. i need to do a claim form for the royal mail tomorrow
is my hole (so to speak) to small???
20mm
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:confused::D I hope you're joking with that question?
why would i be joking???
Might be a tad small depending on how close the scan set is to the aperture. I have an 80mm round window but my galvos are further back. You could get the old protractor out and see where the beams will go.
-Matt
the galvo mirros are 20mm away from the hole
My hole is 2" square and that is about right.Quote:
Originally Posted by andy_con
2 inchs!!!!! fook!!!!
i may have to make mine bigger, some how?
2" may be larger than you need. You'll need to do the math. Also, if you ever decide to add a piece of glass to the hole to keep out dust you will need to account for that.
yeah ok, as soon as im up and running i will find out i suppose
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Lookin good dude. If you're going to use the maximum scan angle of you dt40s, you'd need at least a 30mm square or 43mm diameter round one. Hope its not too much of a bugger to make it bigger.
-Matt
errr i dont know, ill ask the metal place when i take it back haha.
i have an inch by inch block of alum to mount to the back on each item on the bottom level
I know its a little late but nice job-
Andy,
My aperture output window is 4 inches square on my projector. Of course, my galvos are mounted back 2 5/8 inches from the window, so that's part of the reason I needed the large hole. Even so, I can't run my scanners at 100% scan size. If I do, the pattern is larger than the aperture window!
4 inches square was the largest piece of A/R coated glass that OneStopLaserShop had in stock at the time. I figured it would be more than large enough, but I was wrong. (So now I need to re-mount the optical table so it's closer to the front of the case. That will put the scanners closer to the window.)
Adam
ok cheers, so i better look into getting the hole made alot bigger.
poo!!!!!!!!!!
Never fear! You can clamp a bit of wood to the back and use a hole saw to make it bigger.
Why do you want a round hole? The scanner output is square. Unless you plan on using a round lens cap or something then a round hole doesn't make a lot of sense. I have a square hole and am going to put a hinged door over it so I can open the little door when using it and close it when not. But, now that I think about it, I could make a really nifty screw on cover on my lathe.
what a bugger, my blue dichro is about 2-3mm off.
i took alot of time making sure it was all good before i drilled any holes. but guessing i went wrong as the red and green hit the side of the mount!!!
its a bugger trying to drill a hole pretty much on top of another hole
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Move the hole in your mount instead.
chad
not enough room sadly
I'm not sure how you're attaching your mounts, but one thing you could try is to hold it in the new position, and just drill a completely new hole through it and your bread board.
regardless of what you do, I interested to see how this turns out, as I'm a week away from affording the fb3 and am about to start putting my projector together.
i am expecting it to be up and running early next week