im getting a few GM20s (used) but in perfect condition. i dont have them yet, but will be very shortly. just wanted to give a heads up if anyone needs any.
-Marc
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im getting a few GM20s (used) but in perfect condition. i dont have them yet, but will be very shortly. just wanted to give a heads up if anyone needs any.
-Marc
Hey Marc: ;)
Excuse my ignorance. What is it? All I could find is this.
http://www.solarbotics.com/products/gm20/
John :):):)
[QUOTE=Docjohn;97787]Hey Marc: ;)
Excuse my ignorance. What is it? All I could find is this.
http://www.solarbotics.com/products/gm20/
Not quite, try this: used in beam tables to move beams around:
http://www.gs-scanners.com/pdfs/data..._736-49506.pdf
Steve
hey doc john-
not ignorance at all...
like steve posted, they are an "older" type of beam table actuator. GREAT for beam tables and also great for shutters. they work proportionally to the input V. they are also bi-polar.
0V- arm is "home"
+12V arm is fully Right.
reversed polarity from 0, arm can move opposite direction.
i think they were also used or still used for slower beam scanning. not good for graphics, great for beam work though.
reversed polarity from 0, arm can move opposite direction.
i think they were also used or still used for slower beam scanning. not good for graphics, great for beam work though.[/QUOTE]
They were a slow pen motor for chart recorders. They have a tangent corrected response for moving a pen on paper.
Steve
Thanks guys ;)
John :):):)
Also usefull for scanning CuBr beams.
How much are you asking for them?
Mark
I have 10 of them in unused condition but no less than 80.00 ea. I also have 2 driver cards that drive 8 gm-20's. Sorry to thread jack, i also have arms, mirror holders and a few mounts. They sold for 125.00 years and years ago. I use to buy them by the case. How much are you selling yours for marc?
pat-
youre fired!:mad:
:) playin...
these are prob gonna be around the same price. $80-$90. i wont know until i get them in. the invoice is in with the order. which reminds me....should be here today....
-Marc
oh pat....screw you for hijacking!! :p
Gotta love the friendly competition.... Feel the love. :eek::D>:)
pat, competetition?
PLEEAASE!!!! LOL...
he is MUCH better than me!
his mounts SUCK though!! :p:D:p HAHAHAHAHAHA
-Marc
ok, sorry bout this guys...
but i got 4 gm20's (less than i thought) and they are going to be about $100. they re technically "used" as in, not new...but are pretty much brand new. i actually think these 4 are already spoken for also. i was supposed to be getting about 15. but only got 4. :(
im gonna try to get more ASAP.
-Marc
i will do an inventory, stand by for announcement, I have one pm to answer first.
What the hell is A GM-20 Kit Pat?
1 - new never used General Scanning Galvo GM-20
1- new GM-20 mounting bracket with hardware (black anodized)
1- GM-20 style arm flag 2" length with set screw (black anodized)
1- Bonus! electrical wire with 2 connectors for those darn little pins 2' long
I have only 11 of these KITS.
They are first come first serve. Then they are gone!
$125.00 per KIT Paypal laserman@bendcable.com
FREE SHIPPING IN THE USA
INTERNATIONAL BUYERS ADD $15.00 for PRIORITY USPS
http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...pictureid=1360
Uh oh, talk about a thread jack...
Take that bitches!!!! Lololol - i'm out to destroy marc!!!! Muahahahahahahhaha he cant come up with the goods...i will!!!!!:d:d:d:d:d:d:d
These are Mirror mounts for the GM-20 Shaft. Picture shows 2 of them so you get a perspective. I am selling one for $25.00 including shipping. You can not make them this cheap. These mounts will hold MONSTER MIRRORS. 1"x1" mirrors would be fine, but .5"x.5" would be better!
*ALERT ALERT* Silly question incoming...
Assuming I purchase said kit, or attain a GM20 by other means; do I need an amp or driver of some sort to do the 'shuttering' ? If so; what, where, when and how? :D
Or is there a better method to add a shutter? A relay connected to a mouse trap or a spring on a hamster perhaps?
Dan :)
That question I'll let some one else answer because I dont understand electronics and I dont use these for shutters anymore. I hire an Ethiopian to jump in and out of the beam path on command. (send hatemail to www.danielbriggs.com)
8 kits left. If these dont sell I will move them over to www.microlaserlabs.com and increase the price to around $140.00. So get them now and save $$$$$$$:)
Can they be used as a safety shutter? or are there better (cheaper :o) solutions for shutters?
Yes. Most people drive them with a simple darlington transistor pair. DZ has a circuit that he's posted before... I'll see if I can get him to post it here. It's really very simple though. ;)
And Steve is right - this is probably the best component to use for a shutter. It's also the defacto standard in the business...
Adam
Here is the circuit that I use in my projector. Because I'm running my shutter on only 5V, I needed to add a relay to get just enough swing from the GM-20 to unblock the beam. Otherwise, you'll loose some voltage on a darlington transistor. I don't remember exactly what value I used for the capacitor that's in parallel with the GM-20, it may have been 10uf or something close to that, basically, it's there to eliminate a bouncing effect that you'll see without one there. Enjoy!
BUMPED FOR "6 Left" announcement:)
David;
Don't you think the 2n2222 has enough grunt to drive the GM-20 directly? Why add the relay if you don't need it?
Adam
It could probably run it just fine, though you'd probably want to cascade two of them for the darlington effect, or just use a TIP122 darlington transistor. The problem with that is the voltage loss across the transistors, I needed a full 5V for my GM20 to clear the beam path and the relay provides the full 5V. It really just depends on your configuration, a shutter can be setup in so many different ways.Quote:
Don't you think the 2n2222 has enough grunt to drive the GM-20 directly? Why add the relay if you don't need it?
DZ...Thank you for posting your findings and designs on this thread. Greatly appreciated.
OBTW - BUMPED for the "3 Left" Announcement:)
DZ/Buffo/Pat,
Looking at that circuit diagram, could I stick in 1N4001's, and a 47µF tantalum cap instead?
Mean's I've gorra go t'shop if not.
Is this the right tranny? Looks a bit small... http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/s...duct&R=0295028
And is this thee right relay?
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/s...duct&R=4936458
Sorry to sound like a nagging bugger... electronics RELAY isn't my forté
...it's been one of those days... *DZ
Yes, that transistor will work and that relay will work. The 1N4001 will work just fine, I always use 1N4007's since I have about 3000 of them... 47uF will probably be fine, just depends, use it and it if seems too slow, then go with a lower value.
Ta muchly DZ.
I have loads of lower capacitance ones, but they're all electrolytic.
Dan :)
The electrolytics will work just fine too!
This was sent to me from Bill. Works great...and you could vary the power to the load a bit. Plus is that the local rip-off shak will have the goods on hand.
Yeah, That little circuit shouldnt cost more than 30 or 40 dollars at ripoff shaque.
BUMP- "2 Kits" left.
MechEng3 said
Well if bill sent you that... he needs a slap on the back of the hand and be forced to eat a big bowl of Lasorbs for breakfast every day for the next 6 months :DQuote:
This was sent to me from Bill. Works great...and you could vary the power to the load a bit.
Both Sides of the GM20 are being driven by the 0v rail so it will never operate
also the 2n2222 transistor has a collector current of 800ma max so best to use a TIP120 as reccomended in mechs drawing
i also use a similar circuit but with an opto isolator prior to the base resistor to isolate the 5v and 10v
I think your drawing should look like this ... but even i could be wrong :eek:
all the best ... Karl
Thanks Karl...but it was meant to be a very easy and quick solution. Something that could be "dead bugged" and placed in use. Guess I will regress to using Pat B's method....it may be fault proof....no caps or opto-isolators.
hehe .... yep simpler is better ... but i also like reliability and isolation of voltages
here is an updated drawing of what i currently have installed in my projector
this isolates the 5v also im using 15V instead of 12V but it works fine
all the best ... Karl
Hi stuka
im using the very common 4N25 i also added an extra led in series with the opto led so i can have an on board indication that i have a signal
heres the data sheet and pinout
http://www.vishay.com/docs/83725/4n25.pdf
all the best ... Karl
BUMP to announce..."2 Kits" left
EDIT- these are UNIPOLAR DRIVER CARDS
Now I found something else. These are GM-20 driver circuit cards that drive 8 GM-20 actuators. I want to sell these but most of you guys dont do beam rails so I want to list them on ebay. They are new, purchased 10+ years, never had electricity applied to them, FLAWLESS I also found a power supply to drive the cards.
Question...How much are these cards cards worth each?
I have full documentation
gm-20 kits have shipped (all but one)
BUMPED for "2 Kits" left announcement - would ship early next week.
If anyone wants the cards they are $90.00 ea. including shipping in the US. thats only $12.00 per circuit ya cant build them that cheap! Copy of documentation included.
http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...pictureid=1094 Heh, I always thought of stupidity as something you get with age... http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...pictureid=1099 Like wisdom.
LAST CALL on the GM-20 Kits only "2 KITS" available
I got mine today! Thanks Pat! I just need to figure out how to mount the GM20 on this mount... :confused: :o