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Thread: Dye Laser pumped with DPSS...

  1. #11
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    Well, looks like there is a good chance I have found my laser, but more on that when we finalize everything

    I was mainly looking for info on all of the internal components and electronics.
    CLICKY!!!

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  2. #12
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    Little update
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  3. #13
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    Introducing:

    Positive Light Evolution
    15W @ 5khz 527nm

    Hopefully that will get somewhere towards making red





















    Just keep Allen away
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  4. #14
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    Hey Ben -

    Quote Originally Posted by Laser Ben View Post
    Introducing:

    Positive Light Evolution
    15W @ 5khz 527nm
    ..OK, NOW I'm jealous ...where the HELL do you get this stuff??!! I want-in, OK???

    Quote Originally Posted by Laser Ben View Post
    Hopefully that will get somewhere towards making red
    Based on my tests, with a 'fresh batch' of dye / depending on the 'mix' (talk to Steve mixedgas - some important dye-safety info, first, then he can advise you on mixes... ...And I do think 'mix' might be a factor, in this case, since you are pumping with 527 and not 532 - *ahem*... P'fessor?? - but if it's 'all the same' to the dye, at 15W 'pump', you could see ~ 2-3W at 629nm....

    If your sys is fitted with a 'bi-refringent' grating, (most-likely is...) you can 'tune' thru oranges and yellows and deeper-reds (I think, if I am remembering right, it will 'top-out' at ~ 650nm, and lots of lines in-between - again, depending on the mix - again, ask P'fessor Steve... )

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    - BUT if you take the 'BRF' out, you'll lase more 'broadband' and get more power - you might even see upwards of 4W @ 15W of pump, if your dye is relatively 'fresh', and it 'likes' the 527...especially if 15W is the spec on that beauty, and you end-up getting 16-18W... then you might peak 5+W.... and 5+W of 629nm is a sight - to - behold...

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    ..Dude, I'm jealous... (but in the healthy, 'stoked-for-you' sort of way...

    ...PICTURES, OK?????
    peace...
    j

    ....and armed only with his trusty 21 Zorgawatt KTiOPO4...

  5. #15
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    Ben-

    SERIOUSLY DUDE!!!! LOL...you're killin me! where the hell do you get all this shit from???
    15W/527?? niiiice!!!

    -Marc
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  6. #16
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    Start the physics graduate student pickup lines..

    Hey Baby, what color is your floor?

    Hey baby, you look so good in your r6G jeans...

    Caught you pink handed again...

    The kiton red on your sneakers matches your lips...

    ----------------------------------------------------

    Seriously, Ben, dye is a mess, its toxic, despite what that guy who sells r6g on ebay says about putting it in your drinks, and the solvents/additives are nasty. Most of them are carcinogenic...
    DMSO WILL draw the dye right through your skin and into your bloodstream and DNA...

    When you mix it, mix it in glass, plastics and rubber materials with plasticizers or detergents will come back to haunt you...

    It stains everything, including many sinks..

    The grade of dye matters... Exciton is good..

    Ebay, bulk dyes, not so good

    Look for papers by Hansch and see if there is a copy of Dye Lasers by Schafer in the local college library...

    Non denatured Ethanol , certain glycols, and DMSO are your friends...

    labcoat, gloves, goggles etc.. Old clothes, old shoes, and NO carpets... You may think you have decontaimed yourself before you go upstairs or set in the car :_) :-)

    scrub the dye cell clean, and watch out for hidden pockets of wet or dry dye...

    You may not get peak power until you add tripplet state quenchers, but you will get a lot of red...

    No matter what you do, it DOES NOT wash out of anything, and no amount of scrubbing, polishing, solvents, will get it off your sneakers, or out of your jeans...

    Nothing but time or light breaks it down, in some cases, not even chlorine bleach..

    It has a finite lifetime tied to pump power... 527 wont hurt you much, see the adsorption curves at Exciton...

    Threshold is based on molarity, too much is just as bad as too little, and most mixes are blends..

    And if you get this working, be very careful whom you sell it to, its probably not exportable, and not to certain dj's.. Tuning to uranium isotope frequencies, optional..

    change the filter when you change dyes...

    heck, probably better to rent it to qualified, varianced, laserists..

    Steve
    Last edited by mixedgas; 02-22-2010 at 09:24.
    Qui habet Christos, habet Vitam!
    I should have rented the space under my name for advertising.
    When I still could have...

  7. #17
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    dye on our lab coat was a badge of honor...the more variety, the more experienced.
    Pat B

    laserman532 on ebay

    Been there, done that, got the t-shirt & selling it in a garage sale.

  8. #18
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    Well, I don't have green yet, I need to get the laser set up, I have all the major components, head, diode driver, q-switch driver, diode temp controller, water chiller. I need to get everything mounted in a case, and all of the connections hooked up.

    The diodes use a dumb design, each diode has a heater module, the blocks have cold water running through them at all times, then the heater counters the cold of the water to regulate each temperature. I have the temperature controller, which triggers solid state relays for each heater element (120VAC 150W).

    The diode driver is a 4 channel 40A Newport unit which is serial controllable and each diode can be individually controlled. I need to write a program to be able to control it easily, cause the commands are pretty crappy looking.

    I also need to get a temp controller for the LBO, which I believe is also a 120VAC heater, but I may be wrong.

    I am currently struggling to figure out how they fit all this crap in the stock power supply unit which was 20x13x17" and on wheels.
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  9. #19
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    mixedgas is offline Creaky Old Award Winning Bastard Technologist
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    Quote Originally Posted by Laser Ben View Post
    Well, I don't have green yet, I need to get the laser set up, I have all the major components, head, diode driver, q-switch driver, diode temp controller, water chiller. I need to get everything mounted in a case, and all of the connections hooked up.

    The diodes use a dumb design, each diode has a heater module, the blocks have cold water running through them at all times, then the heater counters the cold of the water to regulate each temperature. I have the temperature controller, which triggers solid state relays for each heater element (120VAC 150W).

    That is not dumb, in a lab/industrial setting. Unless your cold water comes from a black roof mounted tank in Boton Rouge

    The diode driver is a 4 channel 40A Newport unit which is serial controllable and each diode can be individually controlled. I need to write a program to be able to control it easily, cause the commands are pretty crappy looking.

    Newport, marketing is our mantra... Listening is verbotten

    I also need to get a temp controller for the LBO, which I believe is also a 120VAC heater, but I may be wrong.

    I am currently struggling to figure out how they fit all this crap in the stock power supply unit which was 20x13x17" and on wheels.
    Welcome to out of control CAD guys!

    Steve
    Qui habet Christos, habet Vitam!
    I should have rented the space under my name for advertising.
    When I still could have...

  10. #20
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    Default Evolution

    Hey Ben,

    I bought off ebay, the guts to one of the Evolutions. Here is some info which came with it regarding the LBO assembly.

    "LBO heater/oven assembly with adjustable mount. The heater/oven module can also be rotated by loosening the top set-screw. The heater/oven module holds a 3x3x15 mm LBO crystal which appears to be clean and clear with no visible defects, but I have not tested. Optimum temperature for the NCPM second-harmonic generation of the LBO crystal is about 325 degrees F. A five-conductor cable is attached (three wires for the 100-ohm RTD temperature sensor, and two wires going to the 400-ohm 120VAC heater element). "

    I also have a couple of those SP positive drivers, so if you do ever get around to writing a serial code program, I'd be interested. I've sent it serial commands from my computer and it works well.

    -George

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