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Thread: Dye Laser pumped with DPSS...

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    Default

    Ah, great, thank you George! I was trying to figure out which was the heater and which was the thermistor/RTD as they were both close to each other when measured. It looks like I will be getting the stock temp controller for the unit, so hopefully it should at least be close to the set point when powered up.
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  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by hologeek View Post
    I've sent it serial commands from my computer and it works well.
    I may need some help here, I don't seem to be getting any reply from the unit. Do you know the serial settings including handshaking and whatnot?
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  3. #23
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Minnesota
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    Default Positive Light Driver

    Hey Ben,

    I had the same problem as you, and it turned out to be the cable I was using.

    Make a cable like this:

    -On the diode driver side, connect pins 1-4-8 and 7-8
    -Both pins 5 (ground) are connected together.
    -Driver pin 2 is connected to computer pin 3
    -Driver pin 3 is connected to computer pin 2

    Did you get the 2 page manual with the driver? Let ma know if you didn't and I'll email it to you. I also have another SP manual that covers other commands. Nice drivers, will do 40A in 4 channels.

    Let me know if this doesn't work and I'll recheck my notes.

    By the way, are all the mirrors in the Evolution plano, or do some have a ROC?

    -George

  4. #24
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Minnesota
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    162

    Default Positive Light Driver

    Settings:

    9600 Baud, 8 data bits, 1 stop bit, no parity

  5. #25
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    Cupertino, California
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    Ah okay, so I need a null modem cable... Wonderful, I was just at frys today :P

    I got the documents, Kevin forwarded them to me. Thanks!
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  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hologeek View Post
    Settings:

    9600 Baud, 8 data bits, 1 stop bit, no parity
    lol, it seems like everything i work on now a days has these settings.

    but anyhow. wow ben you really do get some neat lasers

  7. #27
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    Jan 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by dream beamz View Post
    lol, it seems like everything i work on now a days has these settings.

    but anyhow. wow ben you really do get some neat lasers
    I am able to communicate with the unit!

    Temp control is waiting for the chiller and SSRs, need to hook up the shutter to something, hook up water lines, mount the stuff, and tune LBO temp
    Last edited by Laser Ben; 02-22-2010 at 22:41.
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  8. #28
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    Anybody know what input voltage/current this needs?

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  9. #29
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    SoCal / San Salvador / NY
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    Default

    Hey Ben -

    Quote Originally Posted by Laser Ben View Post
    Anybody know what input voltage/current this needs?
    Depends (slightly) on the exact model - you can do your 'homework', HERE... but for *most* of 'em, 12 - 15V DC*, but at like 1 - 1.5A - they're rather 'hungry'... IF you run them at 12V DC, they'll get 'warm' but not 'dangerously' hot - (I have observed) so long-term operation at the 'lower-end' V-wise, should be fine, w/o any further 'conditioning'... I usually use them with like an Opto22 SSR w/ sig from Pango / keysw / whatever...

    ...a couple members here (Buffo, DreamBeamz, if I remember correct...) have used them in-conjunction with a few other components to 'drop' the V down to like 9VDC, if I remember-right, once 'pulled' at the 12-15V..this works like a charm, and would contribute, I'd imagine, to a cooler coil, etc. But I've had several of them in a Client system-install, open ~200 days/yr for like 10hrs/day, (theme park) running @ straight 12V DC and have never had any 'sticking' issues / failures, etc... but they definitely want 1-1.5A...

    The 'long answer', as-usual...
    peace...
    j

    *Caviat / Disclaimer: I will be happy to stand-corrected, if, once you look up this specific-model with Lucas, there, a different-spec is given - simply 'share' your findings...
    Last edited by dsli_jon; 02-23-2010 at 12:21.
    ....and armed only with his trusty 21 Zorgawatt KTiOPO4...

  10. #30
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    May 2009
    Location
    UCSB
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    Default

    I can't comfirm the part number, but it looks just like the shutters in my versapulse and elipse which both ran on 12v.

    Just turn up the voltage to it till it opens, then round up to the next standard voltage (5v 12v 15v 24v etc). As long as it doesn't melt you should be fine

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