Groupbuy?

[satje]

I know i know.... i'm surfing that same wave

Well when edison gets the meassurements, i can give a rough estimate.

[LEDpaint]

No picture yet, i first will build me myselfe one to get the dimmensions and price right.
When done i wil follow up on this.

The flightcase will be professional with options to choose from (hinges, amount of handles and butterfly locks as wel the thickness of the foam)

Will keep you guy's posted.

Ferry

For us US'ers, buying locally would probably be more cost-effective as shipping is a killer. One company I can think of off the top of my head is called Pocketrunks on Ebay, http://stores.ebay.com/Pocketrunks. They are in New York State, I believe. I've spoken to them on the phone about custom cases awhile back, and they said they can make a custom case for anything. They aren't expensive relative to other manufacturers I've spoken to.

[edison]

Because there are some people that where interested in the safetyboard i would ask your opinion about something. The board has 4 outputs controlled by the relais that switches in case of an emegency, power loss or keyswitch. Should all 4 outputs be controlled by the relais or only 1 output that supplies the 5v/20 amps powersupply In that case the powersupply of the scanners still have power when emergency switch is pushed and scanners still keep moving when the 5v slowly dies. If anyone has an opinion about this let me know.

I think tocket has asked me a question about it. and the modification is real easy to do. I can power the safetyboard true the scannerpowersupply so then if the power is lost on the scanneramps it switches of the lasers also. If there is no signal on the scanners and so there is suddenly a static beam the scanfail kicks in. If 5v is lost for some other reason there is no power at the drivers so no beam. I think personally the best way is to power the board by a 24v lead from your scanneramps.

Let me know how you feel about this.

[satje]

I don't think it is a good idea to take power from the 24V circuit, as the scanners are quite sensitive you don't want to mess with that PSU line.

If power fails then there is no beam at all.
In this sittuation i like the "reset" option, so it won't power up by itselfe.

For other protection i just would cut of the RGB lines, no power = no beam.
This will improve overall lifetime of your PSU's.

Another thing i'd like to see is a "Tamper switch" connected thru the interlock system.
Just take a microswitch and put it below the case's cover and put it in series with the interlock cirquit.

A keyswitch at the back would also be a good idea.

Well guy's keep suggestions comming

Ferry

[edison]

I powered the board true the keyswitch that runs 12v because i have 12v in my projector. You could run it from 24v and put a small heatsink on it. I,m not worried about the 24v line because the traco,s are 4 amps :-) the board uses only 135ma I asked because not everyone has 12v in their projector.As for the reset that still works and also the emergencystop.
If you switch of the keyswitch the board doesn,t work so then there is no beam either. You could connect in series a lidswitch so when the lid is open there is no output either.

Ferry you may have to leave the cold yellow stuff in the fridge because in the first tread that i posted you can see the picture of the backside and guess what there,s a hole for........

[satje]

Yep you're right, guess i have some kind of hangover

Do you have a few orders for the Traco's?
Maybe it is whise i also order them through you to be more cost efficient.

Cheers,
Ferry

[edison]

No sign of any orders yet. i,m willing to order them but if i do the amount wil be the same or a little bit more because i have to put time and effort in it. I rather spend time in something that is especcially for the projector. If i say they are 55 euro,s then everyone is ordering themselves anyway. no one wants to give you anything but they do want to have service if there,s something wrong with something. No evence to anyone just my own experience. If someone can get it cheaper true the net they will buy it there. Welcome to the 20th century

[satje]

Well i just made a account at Farnell.

Going to order them next week or so.
5V @20A how much laserpower can i aprox drive with?

Becouse i will start around 2W but want to be prepped for more power.
Maybe an option to put in 2 5V Traco's with ballanced loading... giving about 40A ?

Just quirious

Ferry

[edison]

I think 20 amps for a 2 w is more then enough. The green and red are not the ones that use a lot the blue is the on that draws the most. Just order one and measure the amps before you build in the lasers. Its easy because a powersupply comes with the laser. Of course you van sell that on flebay because its waaaaaaaay to big

[mccarrot]

Because there are some people that where interested in the safetyboard i would ask your opinion about something. The board has 4 outputs controlled by the relais that switches in case of an emegency, power loss or keyswitch. Should all 4 outputs be controlled by the relais or only 1 output that supplies the 5v/20 amps powersupply In that case the powersupply of the scanners still have power when emergency switch is pushed and scanners still keep moving when the 5v slowly dies. If anyone has an opinion about this let me know.

I think tocket has asked me a question about it. and the modification is real easy to do. I can power the safetyboard true the scannerpowersupply so then if the power is lost on the scanneramps it switches of the lasers also. If there is no signal on the scanners and so there is suddenly a static beam the scanfail kicks in. If 5v is lost for some other reason there is no power at the drivers so no beam. I think personally the best way is to power the board by a 24v lead from your scanneramps.

Let me know how you feel about this.

The best way is to stick with my original schematic.

Power the the interlock with the 5V from you laser driver PSU, this way the signals trough your start and interlock also stays at 5V.
Now with a big relays (I use 16A print relais) you cut the power to the lasers drivers, this way your lasers will go off instant in not slowly dim (this way you will also not have any strange voltage on you drivers because the PSU is dimming slowly)

Due to many reasons I think this is the best way.