Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 17 of 17

Thread: Lasermods Claims for big improvements with undisclosed mod

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    lancaster Pa. USA
    Posts
    130

    Default

    if yoy look at sams laser faq he has some excelent diagrams.
    dont do anything with the crystals themselves (mca) its the output mirror and diode that sometimes need alignment.
    Those who stand for nothing, Will fall for anything.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bengal
    It seems the big secret is out now.
    removing the glue from between the crystal section and the diode housing.
    and securing it back with artic silver.
    Woo hoo.. now that was worth waing for.. maybe.. put my life on hold for that.. not!
    It may not seem like a big hoo-haa to you Bengal, but I can assure you every laser that has had this mod done has had noticeable differences in stability. :roll:

    And, you were asking why I would fuse the MCA holder to a known heat generator i.e. the diode housing. The anwser is this - the mod is not to as much to acheive better cooling but more of to keep the temperature of the two components pretty much constant with each other. I have found that when there was a big difference between the two - that was when the stability problems started to occur. It appears to me that any expansion caused by the heat on one side is not carried over and then we have alignment problems.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Southampton, UK
    Posts
    168

    Default

    Hey Lasermod

    Welcome to PhotonLexicon, I look forward to your regular contributions. All your posts on CPF I have found worth reading, your images are second to none, and your documentation is excellent (much better than mine).

    I would agree that your mod increasses stability, no doubt. But you have said that every pointer you modded with stage 4 increased in power, even stock 110s. Do you belive that this was down to improved alignment? I cant speak for Bengal but I guess, we were both confused as to where the extra power comes from.

    I realise that stage 4 is important with regard to future diode replacement, its just the increase in power that is puzzling.

    You mention that you have gained 15mw in power by switching to a casix MCA, we are trying to get a group buy togther for Casix, could you comment on your findings on the thread ?

    With regard to Wyverns 110 mod, it definatly works very well (see my post in modifications). The 110 is now my primary focus, what I initally thought was too well engineered for modding, is turing out to be the ideal host !

    Kind regards


    Gold

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    457

    Default

    Heres my 2 cents.

    This mod does nothing to increase stability. Given the optics are designed to focus the 808nM into a 50micron spot into the crystal you would have to adjust the coupling to get it back to 50micron, it looks like your just collapsing the point further by pulling the rocks closer, which does nothing other than ADD point source heat load to the innermost part of the crystal set

    While we are on heat load...

    You are increasing the thermal coupling of the brass to the brass, not from the crystal to the brass. The rocks are sandwiched there with glue

    The only benefit I see here is the REVERSE application of the heat to the non linear rock (KTP, LBO? no one knows, expect cheaper) which (in larger professional systems) is heated to increase stability and efficiency of the conversion.

    I would love to have seen paste applied to the barrel and a sliver of indium foil added to the rock to help pull the heat away from the critical innards of the system.

    The problem being run into here is that the crystals are optically bonded. The fracture point WILL be the bond beteen the Vanadate and KTP.

    There are a few other things, but this is all I can remember off the top of my head.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    802

    Default

    Welcome to PhotonLexicon LaserMod.

    We are all trying to make those things better ...so we enjoy any input that may provide answers to making more green on the cheap.

    We may tear apart other methods but it is all in the name of science...so take no offence if I barge in.

    It looks like your on your way to better experimentation with that Arctic silver paste.
    Have you considered using "Ceramique" by Artic on the crystals themselves?

    A few know my secret to getting power out of these..so I wont go into much detail here ...sorry trade secret, but...

    I have found by carefully controlling the diode's temperature , may it be just a large heatsink it does well...this is where the majority of heat come from...
    We CAN use this to our advantage.

    Also by taking advantage of some heating (just a little) I can control the temp of the crystals .. also improves efficiency...
    Too bad the Vanadate is affixed to the KTP..now this we want to cool some (keep it from cracking)..but my heatsink seems to work for that too...

    Now the kind of mod I really would like to see is provide a small pinhole on a piece of copper plate maybe a few mills thick (we dont want to change the spot focus on the crystals too much) about 50microns at the front of the vanadate where the spot beam enters... and have that sandwiched in between using Indium foil...This will help the vanadate disappate the heat better...this is the problem spot for heat..

    Then we could provide better cooling or heating... the key is to control.

    So, I would have placed the Arctic paste on the channel that holds the crystals ..Provide better thermal conduction ,....instead of just in-between the diode mount and crystal holder.
    As right now only part of them are contacting the metal and poorly at that.
    Using that CRAPPY Cement thats on them now..

    Better yet use the stuff the experts use "INDIUM" foil because that paste is hard to get off of the mirror coatings and too much cleaning or any cleaning "WILL" degrade them.

    Also, Be very carefull of the Diode pump optics..dont get any foreign debre or misplaced coatings inside or on thoses lenses...that will distort the spot beam..or worse yet reflect it back into the diode and destroying it.

    There has been a lot of internet mis-information, I think some of it is on purpose.
    Like for example..Lens orientation...(they really do go flat sides out) use a microscope "you'll see".
    And output couplers on the input..."I still cant get over that one".
    And freeze spray the on the rocks..."you really want to kill that diode?"
    I could go on...perhaps much of this is others "like Us" are trying to reinvent the wheel and the followers mis-interpret what is said and passes that info on as the gospel.

    I , One will admit , I am still learning and altho I have spent many many hours and not to mention , I could have bought a new home for the money I have spent in lasers..You would think by now ,,.. I should know all ..I dont , But I did learn a few things along the way...thanks to friends...

    I think we all should give our thanks to Sam Goldwasser...
    For putting up all that wonderful data and comprehensive reading area
    called SAMS LASERFAQ
    >>>> http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/laserins.htm<<<
    That must have takin so much out of his other FUN time to do.

    I suggest everyone spend as much time there as they possibly can...
    I am always learning something new everytime I visit.
    >>>Oh, you might want to thank him if you get a chance on ALT.LASER<<<<
    "My signature has been taken, so Insert another here"
    http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/laserfaq.htm
    *^_^* aka PhiloUHF

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Cheers for the welcome Marconi

    Well this is my second post here are things are 'heating-up' already :roll:


    Just want to correct a couple of your points Spec although you have some good points:


    Firstly you pointed out a potential difference in distance between the pump diode and lasing material. I do apologise for my bad drawings but I can tell you that any distance change before and after the mod is virtually none.


    Secondly you asked why I would not apply compound from the crystals to the brass, well I did and said so in the mod:

    If you want to change and have the new MCA to hand you can remove the old one now or if you simply want to improve heat dissipation further you can remove the existing MCA and clean off the old white paste. On fitting the new/original MCA back again be sure it is completely free around the edges of the old white compound and apply an even layer of AS (Arctic Silver 3) around the sides that come in contact with the MCA holder. To hold the MCA in place, mix some 'Araldite' or equivalent two-part epoxy and place a small dab between the gap on the MCA holder and leave for 24hrs to harden.
    Goldmagnet, what is it you want to know about Casix?

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Southampton, UK
    Posts
    168

    Default

    Hello Lasermod

    Good to read you again

    Several of us here, who have not already done so, wish to purchase some Casix crystals. As someone who has used these in Leadlights perhaps you can share some of your experiences with us. DO you think Casix is the best choice ?

    Have you heard from anyone who has experienced power increases following the stage 4 mod ? I have some Artic Silver on order and hope to try the mod this weekend.

    Wyvern's capacitor and your 102 SMR mod work well together on the on the 110 so that my focus at the moment.

    We all hope to read you here more often, and Welcome to PhotonLexicon from me too.

    Gold

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •