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Thread: A step by step guide to modding the leadlight 110

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    Southampton, UK
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    Default A step by step guide to modding the leadlight 110

    As there is not much information available on the leadlight 110, I though I would put together an article exclusivly for PhotonLexicon detailing my experiences with this model of pointer. Gabrial has asked if my performance gains are true so I thought I would detail them as best I could.

    Currently my best pointer is a modded AtlasNova, which measured 31mw output before modding. After modding this is now a treasured toy, bursts ballons from 6 feet and so far has been stable and reliable.



    I then purchased 2 Leadlight 110 pointers. The first was broken when being re-assembled and thus has become a spare parts doner. The second was modded, and eventually became my split beam module, and shows great promise. For the purpose of my latest test I have purchased 2 new 110 pointers from SP3 Plus in the UK. Both pointers are 110s at 5mw (not 1 mw).

    Both pointers arrived in the now familiar packaging, and this was duly discarded (I dont care about the box), and they were powered up. As hoped both were completely equal in brighness, no difference could be seen in the beams at all, perfect for this test/article.

    One pointer now becomes the control pointer (called Charlie), this is not opened or used now in any way, other than for comparison testing with the modded pointer.

    Dismantling the pointer.
    Taking the 110 apart is not much different to the 105, but as always take it slowly. The first thing to do with a 110 is remove the clear plastic tube that conducts the SM led light on the PCB to the outside of the pointer. Do not use pliers for this, as the plastic is soft and will crush together, and makes a bit of a mess. Good old fashioned fingernails are best, after about the fifth attempt it generally pops out.



    Next use a knife to loosen the main barrel assembly from the pointer case. Once there is 2 or 3 millimeters I usually use the blade of a flat screwdriver to gently twist the laser module from the case. When its good and loose I remove it with pliers.

    When the module is removed be sure to carefully remove the plastic PCB holder and the extra plastic spacer ring. I would be interested to hear if your plastic PCB holders are butchered like mine, every 110 I have dismantled has had a PCB holder that looks like its been cut witha pair of sicessors.

    There are 3 mods I wanted to test;

    1. Pot Mod (Generic)
    2. 102 Resistor mod (Lasermod)
    3. Capacitor (A106) Mod (Wyvern)

    Now in order to compare beams I have enclosed images, but I also decide to use the green LED method to measure power. I dont have a good power meter and so this was the only method I had available that would give numbers. Using the agreed fomular of here are the starting numbers;

    Stock 110 (Charlie) mw 3.8
    Stock 110 (Sting) mw 3.5
    Split Beam Module mw 55mw

    1. Pot Mod.
    My 110 (Charlie) did not respond at all to the pot mod. During adjustment output would vary, but would always settle at about 5 mw. This was not what I expected as I have got good results from the pot mod in the past. I have been thinking about this and I belive that many of the 110 pointers do not work as designed, because of the different behaviours I have observed. Some 110 pointers respond to the pot mod, others do not. Its not a case that they are already at maximum, is a case that the feedback module, or something, compensates for the change in the pot. I have had 110 pointers that improve 100% with the pot mod, others do not seem to respond at all. Yet after the reistor mod, and the capactitor mod, they do respond to pot adjustments. This might be due to a common misaligmnet of the feedback device causing it to become ineffective, I dont know for sure, but its my guess.

    2. 102 Resistor Mod.



    This mod involves removing the resistor marked 102 are sorting. My 110 (Charlie) did not respond well to the 102 resistor mod, although now the pot had more effect.

    Following this mod a modest improvement was observed.

    3. Capacitor A106 mod.
    I was very sckeptical when Wyvern first posted this mod (mainily as he thought it was a diode not a capicitor). But the results are great.

    The mod involves removing the component marke A106 (sometmes C106) with a short (jumping one PCB track).



    Following this mod the pot works great and the power is greater than my 105 (see figures). By way of information I also powered up Sting with the capaicitor removed but not shorted and the module powered up as normal.

    The image below shows my HOT 105, next to a standard 110 (Charlie) next to the modded 110 (Sting), and here are the ending numbers;



    Stock 110 (Charlie) 3.8 mw
    Stock 110 (Sting) 45 mw

    I dont have 3 arms Julie is holding one of the modules here!!!

    The next step is to modify Charlie with lasermods new alignment mod and report the results. I am sure the improved thermal efficency will help with stability but I am not sure we will have more power or not... I will report the progress of this mod next week.

    The split beam module has a further modification with the resistor next to 102 sorted as well. This was a mistake and could be relevent or not. I will try this mod as well and report on its sucess.

    Gold

  2. #2

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    This mod does work and Ive done it on 4 110 units so far. The bad thing is - the current draw is 600ma which is way too high for these diodes. I had one unit which stopped working after this mod-the red LED lights up but no beam, I think it fried the diode. Has anyone tried using resistors to make the jump after removing 102 and A106? We got to get these running at a safe 350-450ma. I wonder if a 220ohm and 3.3k ohm resistor would work like on the 105 units???

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    SoCal
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    Default

    Are you measuring current draw from the battery or the current actually running across the diode?

    I would suspect the former as I don't know how many of the pointer IR diodes would survive 600mA run through them.

  4. #4

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    A user on candlepower forums suggests leaving the 110 units a106 cap and resistor in place, and instead piggyback the 103 resistor next to the pot with another 103 or completely remove the 103 and replace it with a 3.3k ohm -4.7k ohm resistore. This will trick the feedback unit into sending more power to the diode to get the same reading of green beam. I tried it on one unit but cant come up with a conclusion since when I was putting back the a106 cap and 201 resistor - I lost the resistor and could only find a 100 ohm resistor. If anyone tries this let me know- heres a link to this mod.http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...ad.php?t=92374

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
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    SoCal
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    I read through the link, interesting idea... sounds wonderfully dangerous

    But I personally wouldn't be a champion of "tricking" the feedback.
    I'd say its a much more sound idea to maintain current control from
    the getgo.

    Another thing to note is that most cheap 15W style irons are not ESD safe
    (in fact, some are not even line isolated!) so it could be contributing to
    your problems.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Cleveland, Ohio
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    2,333

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    Quote Originally Posted by DeezDrama View Post
    A user on candlepower forums suggests leaving the 110 units a106 cap and resistor in place, and instead piggyback the 103 resistor next to the pot with another 103 or completely remove the 103 and replace it with a 3.3k ohm -4.7k ohm resistore. This will trick the feedback unit into sending more power to the diode to get the same reading of green beam. I tried it on one unit but cant come up with a conclusion since when I was putting back the a106 cap and 201 resistor - I lost the resistor and could only find a 100 ohm resistor. If anyone tries this let me know- heres a link to this mod.http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...ad.php?t=92374
    Yes, running the laser at 600mA is asking for it to blow. follow the CPF link and then scroll down to my post for a 'constant current' mod for this laser that will disable the APC feedback and basically make it a 105-style leadlight.

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