spectra physics 265

[dsli_jon]

Hey Stoney -

Then again, we might give that a shot with liquid nitrogen! Anyone got a 265 we can sacrifice?

"sacrifice" - good word-choice! ...but yes, we still have 2 remaining 265s I'd love not to have to spend the time to strip-down for recycling... they both work, but alas, no-more pretty-little 168s to run with-them... only 171s and other-such monsters.. all our other ions are Purelights, so lemme know if you guys want one (or two... strapped to a pallet and sent to ya... you can have them for peanuts.... and beer...

BTW, does anyone (maybe Steve) have some details on the wiring of the interlock circuit? Ours keeps tripping for no apparent reason during power-on, and when it's on it stays on, and the "Master Control" keyswitch doesn't seem to have any function. The system stays on with the switch in either position.

...Umm, you don't have an ohm-meter? I'd suspect your flow switches or some dodgy wire somewhere in that circuit... grab an ohm-meter and a couple hours, and you should shortly be singing songs about your success... it's not that complex...

Here's a little 'helper', though you should 'verify' yours has not been 'modified by the previous owner' any-more than it sounds like it might-be (again, a 'DMM' is your friend... ....

...(image courtesy of sir yaddatrance... miss that guy...

Hope this helps...
cheers...
j

[Stoney3K]

Hey Stoney -



"sacrifice" - good word-choice! ...but yes, we still have 2 remaining 265s...

Are they in working order or could I ask for some parts? I would be particularly interested in a set of key switches WITH keys for the control and gas fill switches, and a clean front panel. Ours has been modified to mount an hour-meter, and was sold without the keys. I replaced the master keyswitch with a regular rocker switch (which seems to have no function). And yes, I've measured the switch beforehand.

...Umm, you don't have an ohm-meter? I'd suspect your flow switches or some dodgy wire somewhere in that circuit... grab an ohm-meter and a couple hours, and you should shortly be singing songs about your success... it's not that complex...

I'd love to give this one a serious measure-through (I have a DMM and scope if needed), but I'm clueless where to find certain test points. I don't have any schematics, and Steve (mixedgas) has been sent several messages over PM by laserwinkel asking for the password which protects the schematic ZIP file. He has yet to answer.

The water flow switch inside the 265 is working, I can ascertain that as the 'WATER ON' light illuminates when there's enough flow.

That's a useful one, if I can find more specific info on those pins, I might be able to build a brand new cable for the head with plugs on either end. The interlock wiring inside the cable MIGHT have sustained some damage, that's fairly easy to check with a DMM (resistance should read zero).

If only I could find the supplier for that plug. Having the 265 inside a nicely protected road case would make this unit even more sell/rent-worthy.

IIRC the 2560 power supplies are also capable of running 168's, right? We've got a 2540 here (with a 2010 head), but the connectors are completely different. The 265 is quite a heavy beast (especially combined with the transformer), so if we can compact it down in any way, smaller is better.

[dsli_jon]

Hey S3K -

real-quick, cause I gotta jet....

Are they in working order or could I ask for some parts? I would be particularly interested in a set of key switches WITH keys for the control and gas fill switches, and a clean front panel.

As-stated, have two-complete 265s, both work, but no lasers to run-them - next stop: the recycle yard (since, these days, it is more trouble that it's worth, to try and list on eBay / babysit the auction, etc - it is nearly impossible to 'get what they're worth' these-days, so sometimes, it's easier to just scrap it and forget it....) - But yes, I would be willing to dismantle it / them, though, honestly, I'd much rather just sell one (or both) in-tact - this way, you'd have a complete working supply, for parts, etc... 'Make me an offer I can't refuse'...

...and I doubt 'slow-boat' shipping would be too 'astronomical', though I don't know how 'brutal' your customs, are there, on 'used items', like this...

I'd love to give this one a serious measure-through (I have a DMM and scope if needed), but I'm clueless where to find certain test points...

Just start from the connector points (in the drawing there) and trace-out, 'backwards and forwards' (psu > umbilical > head and back...) you should be able to find all the 'points' in that circuit - it's pretty simple, and IIRC, all-goes back to a 'shunt' on the 3Ø breaker....

I might be able to build a brand new cable for the head with plugs on either end. The interlock wiring inside the cable MIGHT have sustained some damage,....If only I could find the supplier for that plug. Having the 265 inside a nicely protected road case would make this unit even more sell/rent-worthy.

?? Plug? Are you looking for an umbilical / plug? I just posted another chap about 2x of those I'd also love to get rid of... So, make ya a deal - buy one of the umbilicals and it comes with a *free* 265...

IIRC the 2560 power supplies are also capable of running 168's, right?

2560? this is a 2560...



... and I'm pretty-sure you'd wanna 'blow your brains out' in-trying to mod one of these to run a 168... Did you mean a 2540 (forget the exact model - need to verify it, later...) - one of these?:



...that is more 'probable' to mod, but I can tell you, it ain't any lighter' than a 265, and the 'footprint' is actually a bit larger (deeper) it is just 'shorter', so I don't think the 'space savings' would justify the werk it would take to 'mod' it for your head.... I think you'd be much better off just getting one of these 265s and/or just reparing yours...

..and - fyi - I have tons, and tons of spare parts for the 265s, too - fuses, transformers, 741s, etc, etc - I know many others, do, as-well, and that's fine, but the point-is, if you were to 'pick-up' one of these 265s - - what am I gonna do with all these spare parts? I already have 2 full 'kits', ready for 'service calls' that have gone un-touched for years, so I'd be happy to stuff a box full of extra goodies and just clear the shelf space - that's more valuable, right now, than these parts...

Anyhoo, I gotta jet - will answer ya t'morrow... lemme know on those 'goodies'...

cheers..
j

[Stoney3K]

As-stated, have two-complete 265s, both work, but no lasers to run-them - next stop: the recycle yard (since, these days, it is more trouble that it's worth, to try and list on eBay / babysit the auction, etc - it is nearly impossible to 'get what they're worth' these-days, so sometimes, it's easier to just scrap it and forget it....) - But yes, I would be willing to dismantle it / them, though, honestly, I'd much rather just sell one (or both) in-tact - this way, you'd have a complete working supply, for parts, etc... 'Make me an offer I can't refuse'...

...and I doubt 'slow-boat' shipping would be too 'astronomical', though I don't know how 'brutal' your customs, are there, on 'used items', like this...

I'd have a check back with some shipping corps over here. If we can get a spare 265 which is completely working, we can scrap the other one for parts. Shipping from US to Netherlands is quite a pain on heavy gear like this.

(...)

Just start from the connector points (in the drawing there) and trace-out, 'backwards and forwards' (psu > umbilical > head and back...) you should be able to find all the 'points' in that circuit - it's pretty simple, and IIRC, all-goes back to a 'shunt' on the 3Ø breaker....

I was referring more to the internals of the supply. There has to be a reason the master power switch fails to work, it might be connected to the interlocks continuously tripping.

Furthermore, the overpressure drain seems to have no effect on ours. You'd suspect engaging that would bypass all water flow and cut flow through the passbank and the head. Instead, it does absolutely nothing right now.

?? Plug? Are you looking for an umbilical / plug? I just posted another chap about 2x of those I'd also love to get rid of... So, make ya a deal - buy one of the umbilicals and it comes with a *free* 265...

In particular, I'm looking for a supplier and the pinouts for both ends of the plug, chassis and cable mounts. Ultimately the best way to get the system road-proof is to build the head into a road case, with a male chassis mount umbillical connector on the case itself, along with quick-releases for the water lines.

The 265 would have the other end treated in a similar way. (hey, wait, there's not a lot of work to do there! )

I hate having equipment with cables dangling off them, especially if it's precision gear and it needs to be transported in a truck or trailer. Having simple enclosures and transporting all cabling/plumbing separately would be far more reliable.

BTW, Rob, I found a remark in your thread:

Power is 1ph the 265 was converted/modded by the previous owner. Its a bit senestive to volts but is OK

Will that thing actually run on single-phase 230V? Right here in continental Europe, any 1ph connections over 16A (or 32A with proper plug) are illegal, and I don't see the tube doing 30A @ 234VDC with that kind of supply.

If it actually runs reliably on single-phase 230V, there's a lot of metal we can scrap!

[dsli_jon]

Hey S3K -

I'd have a check back with some shipping corps over here. If we can get a spare 265 which is completely working, we can scrap the other one for parts. Shipping from US to Netherlands is quite a pain on heavy gear like this.

If you can PM-me a postal code, I can try and get you a shipping quote, if interested... I can make you a nice 'deal' on both: one, complete, and the other, say, stripped-down to the most 'critical' stuff (ie: passbank, breaker, PCBs, etc) so you have the other good one for spares.. those items could all fit in a smaller box, and without the transformers, etc, it would be quite a bit lighter... I'd be happy to stuff the box with spare parts, too (trannies, fuses, lamps, SCRs, caps, etc, etc... I just wanna get rid of it all and make more space...)

265 #1: ...and #2: ...and yes, I have extra keys...

In particular, I'm looking for a supplier and the pinouts for both ends of the plug, chassis and cable mounts. Ultimately the best way to get the system road-proof is to build the head into a road case, with a male chassis mount umbillical connector on the case itself, along with quick-releases for the water lines.

Here are the 2 umbilicals I have - one *may* be spoken-for, we'll see, but either way, they're both clean and complete...



RE: 'road casing', "with a male chassis mount umbillical connector on the case itself"...of course, you mean, in a 'recessed-box', inside the crate, with cover-plate, right?

Anyhoo, I gotta sleep... hope this helps... lemme know postal code, if-interested in exploring that, and we can chat pricing, etc via PM...

cheers..
j

[Stoney3K]

RE: 'road casing', "with a male chassis mount umbillical connector on the case itself"...of course, you mean, in a 'recessed-box', inside the crate, with cover-plate, right?

You are catching *my* drift. Obviously, the crate would also be reinforced by aluminum profiles and sealed with butterfly locks on either end.

Point is, I don't know the model number of the connector used. If I do, I can probably source them brand new from RS Components, including the 'reverse' (male chassis/female cable) version, and dust covers.

I don't need the umbilical itself, since it's just a pile of wires, I can easily rebuild/fix one when I need it. I wired up a complete racing car last year, so this is peanuts.

The connectors look like they're a version of Amphenol MIL-STD plugs, but I can't figure out the specific model number for them. I don't want a M-M umbilical cable, since that would expose the cathode and tube voltages (200VDC+) to 'unsuspecting' roadies.

I've got a professional audio background, and I have the experience that M-F cabling is generally idiot-proof. Since it'll fit in only one direction and can be extended to arbitrary lengths.

[dsli_jon]

Hey S3K -

Point is, I don't know the model number of the connector used. If I do, I can probably source them brand new from RS Components, including the 'reverse' (male chassis/female cable) version, and dust covers.

Ooookay, just be prepared for some 'sticker shock' on those connectors, new...

I don't need the umbilical itself, since it's just a pile of wires, I can easily rebuild/fix one when I need it.

I think the idea was, buy the scrapped umbilical and you get a 'free' good-connector...buy the 265, and you get an umbilical and a second F connector / parts and goodies from the other 265, and spares, galore...

I don't want a M-M umbilical cable, since that would expose the cathode and tube voltages (200VDC+) to 'unsuspecting' roadies.

...Sorry, but any 'roadie' that would seek to hook-up / unhook a M-M umbilical between the PSU F and the head-case F, with the PSU putting out tube voltage (which, you'd have to work awfully hard to do, with the interlock-loop being part of the umbi, and-all...) would not deserve to be a 'roadie' for a laser show-co, IMHO... Sooo, ??

Anyhoo, lemme know if you decide you have an interest in getting a shipping quote on this to you (need postal code, etc...) - if not, at some point, it will get scrapped and... well, it won't be available to help anyone, then...

cheers...
j

[mixedgas]

That connector has a custom made HV insert, it is NOT a common standard production Amphenol. Nor does it exactly fit the standard flange mounting pattern. And if they are in stock, your looking at 400$ or so. Normal amphenol inserts are blue. I'm betting that one is fitting into a clear female, and clear is the custom one.

Take Jon up on his offer, or I can sell you one, but one way or another just get one from a laserist. Been there, done that, and got the tee shirt.

Steve

[Laserman532]

That connector has a custom made HV insert, it is NOT a common standard production Amphenol. Nor does it exactly fit the standard flange mounting pattern. And if they are in stock, your looking at 400$ or so. Normal amphenol inserts are blue. I'm betting that one is fitting into a clear female, and clear is the custom one.

Take Jon up on his offer, or I can sell you one, but one way or another just get one from a laserist. Been there, done that, and got the tee shirt.

Steve

get the one from jon...what ever the cost (it will be reasonable knowing jon)

[buffo]

does the spectra physics 265 exciter have over voltage protection?

yes the entire pass bank will act like a fuse.

Really late getting to this thread, but OH SNAP! I laughed my ass off at this one, Pat!

Adam