Getting your projector right just got easy

[JohnYayas]

Hey, that's great! I have wondered when someone would create such a thing. Could you list all of it's features? I would be interested in a few if the price is right.

[stanwax]

all of its features are listed on my website and hopefully all questions answered in the doc attached to the first post in this thread
Rob

[blowfly]

Thanks Rob!!!!

I'll assume for 12v operation that the bottom conductor is not hooked up. Someday I do want to use the Colour board but right now I don't have enough 24v/-24v to spare.

Mike

[hobbybob]

Hi Rob,

My new green projector uses Sonima 2803 scanners.
They use a single powersupply +/- 15V 0.8A
How much does the board draw ?
And can i safely hook this up to this supply without disturbing operation of the scanners?(would be nice, safes another ps in the case).

[blowfly]

Hi Rob,

I'm having trouble getting the board to go into Run mode. It powers up OK, the amber light on the back of the board and the LED on the remote both light up. I'll describe the steps I've taken to wire it up and perhaps you can help me troubleshoot.

1. The board didn't fit hanging on the back of my projector, so I switched it to internal by changing the 4 solider link pads. I think these are J16-J19. J17 and J18 where shorted together when I got the board. I removed the solder from these and instead shorted J16 & J17 together and J18 & J19 together.
2. Connected key switch to J9.
3. Connected power to J7. As discussed above, +12v is coming in on the molex jumper nearest the DkB channel and ground is coming in the middle of the molex jumper.
4. Connected IDC ribbon cable to IDC26 header. Other end of IDC ribbon is connected to a breakout board I got from Edison. The breakout board is connected to an FB3.
5. For the remote connection, I realized that the DSub9 pin outs are backwards. New pinouts below. The two E-Stop A's are connected together. The two E-Stop B's are connected together. Both sets are connected through a throw switch with the switch closed for normal operation.
   1. Pin 1 - start button (momentary n/o)
   2. Pin 2 - E-Stop A
   3. Pin 3 - E-Stop B
   4. Pin 4 - Unused
   5. Pin 5 - LED
   6. Pin 6 - E-Stop A
   7. Pin 7 - E-Stop B
   8. Pin 8 - Start button
   9. Pin 9 - LED
6. Power up - LEDs light up
7. Push start button - nothing happens

Did I miss any necessary steps? Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot further?

Thanks Rob,
Mike

[hobbybob]

Hi Blowfly,

On the DB25 in/out board that SrS designed for Edison there are 4 jumpers on the side.

They can be placed like this:

||
||

or like this
_
_
_
_

So if they are like the top, you can place them like the setting below or other way around, does that help ?

I had the same problem on the LEM with Rob and then thought of the jumper setting.

Hope this helps ?

Kind regards,
Dimitri

[stanwax]

Ok Mike lets look at what you have got

1 - correct swapping these solderlinks takes the ilda interlock from the 26 way header instead of the 25-pin Sub D
2 - Correct, obviously for testing purposed these pins can be joined with a jumper
3 - Correct, and voltage between 12 and 24VDC is ok, the board uses a single rail supply but if you intend to add the colour board in the future this would need to be split rail (12-24VDC)
4 - My only exprience of this breakout board is as Dimitri suggests - try his solution and report back please
5 - Well spotted there is an error on the diagram of the pin numbers
There is another mistake on this drawing as it shows pins 2 & 5 shorted together as well as pins 3 & 6. This is wrong! See attached image for correct diagram. There will be a new issue of the instructions shortly which will address this and a couple of other errors.


6 - Power up Leds lit - does that mean amber LED (power) and bi-colour LED lit green? Green would show that the interlock circuit is complete and the laser is read to be activated. If its out then part of the interlock circuit is open. The circuit includes the ilda interlock (pins 4 & 17) the key switch and the e-stop contacts.
7 - As per above the start button will only function when the bi-colour LED shows green. If its not green the whole circuit is held in hard reset condition making the system safe.

What you need to do first of all is check the wiring to the interlock noting & rectifying my errors the place power on the board with E-stop contacts open. This should put the amber LED on to show power and the Bi-colour LED should be out. Close the e-stop contacts and see if the Bi-colour lights green. If it does not remove the Ilda ribbon and place a jumper over the pins that make the interlock connections (thats the 4th pair counting down from J5 the x/y signal connector) If the Bi colour lights green than pressing the start button should begin the timer sequence (indicated by the flashing green to red of the bi colour led) at the end of the time period the led will remain in the red state and the relay will pull in. If this all works then the problem is in the unterlock on the ilda breakout board.
Post your resluts so we know you've cracked it or that we need to do some more to get you working

Rob

[blowfly]

Guys thanks for the troubleshooting advice. I'm still unable to get everything working but this seems like progress.

The behavior now is:
Power on - the amber LED lights up, nothing else. When I press the start button, the green bi-colour LED lights up while the start button is depressed. When I release the start button, the green LED goes dark. Nothing happens after this.

Have you ever seen this symptom before?

These are the steps I took last night:
1. Put a jumper across pins 4 & 17 of the IDC connector. I also tried Dimitri's suggestion. All vertical jumpers on the Srs breakout board seemed to be the right configuration or at least the behavior is the same as with IDLA pins 4 & 17 connected.
2. Put a jumper across the key switch connector.
3. Connected all the E-Stop wires together. My understanding this is the same as the normal operation of the E-Stop button which is closed.
4. Double checked all remaining connections.

Thanks for any suggestions or feedback!
Mike

[stanwax]

Mike
it sounds like the pins on the 9 pin are transposed remeber that they should be numbered when viewed from the underside of the pcb (same side as the 25-way). In fact if you look at the pcb you will see that 2 pairs of pins are joined by traces - these are the ones that should be used for the estop. until you get the green light on permanently you wont get any further as that is the whole point - it will keep the laser safe until the safety conditions are met
Rob

[mccarrot]

Hi Rob,

a tip for your next version.

this way of mounting in a backpanel is only possible with thin backplates.

I have a 3mm back plate in my projector and even with the shorter schrews its will not be a perfect fit.

Some holes in the PCB would fix this issue.