Group buy Edmunds Optics window 3"x3" x 3mm

[kitatit]

Hi Guys,

I'm about to buy an Edmunds optics Window (3" x 3" Size 3mm Thickness, AR Coating NT46-101).
http://www.edmundoptics.com/onlineca...productID=1919

Just checking if anyone is interested in a group buy as there is a significant price
break for buying 6 pieces. Also the shipping is the same for 1 or 6.

When I view the Edmunds site and state my location as Australia it shows the
prices in Singaporean dollars so bare that in mind when you look at the links above.

Here is a breakdown of the cost to buy one or six converted to local currencies as of
20th june 2010.

1x Edmunds optics window 3"x3" 3mm Thickness, AR Coating NT46-101 + shipping to
Australia is

Subtotal: SGD$30.78 = AUD$25.49 = USD$22.22 = EUR17.94 = GBP14.99
Shipping: SGD$45.00 = AUD$37.27 = USD$32.49 = EUR26.23 = GBP21.92
Total: SGD$75.78 = AUD$62.76 = USD$54.71 = EUR44.17 = GBP36.91

Now if we buy 6 it looks like this;

Subtotal: SGD$147.72 = AUD$122.34 = USD$106.66 = EUR86.10 = GBP71.94
Shipping: SGD$ 45.00 = AUD$37.27 = USD$32.49 = EUR26.23 = GBP21.92
Total: SGD$192.72= AUD$159.61 = USD$139.15 = EUR112.33 = GBP93.86

Soooo the price per unit to Australia to get to me in Perth is:
SGD$32.12 = AUD$26.60 = USD$23.20 = EUR18.72 = GBP15.64

Price per unit to ship to Europe, the US and most countries is around $10USD
To ship within Australia and NewZealand is around $8-$9AUD.

All these shipping rates are by standard air mail.

Approximate total cost to Australia or NZ per unit including 2.5% paypal fee is
AUD$35.47

Approximate total cost to US per unit including 2.5% paypal fee is
USD$34.03

Approximate total cost to Europe per unit including 2.5% paypal fee is
EUR27.46

Approximate total cost to UK per unit including 2.5% paypal fee is
GBP22.94

If you are interested, have a look at buying one direct yourself from your country.
If it turns out cheaper, go for it. If this group buy works out cheaper for you let me know.

If anyone was wondering what size window they need, have a look at the pics below.
This is a rough layout of my projector design showing a 3" x3"x3mm window positioned 40mm in front of the scanner shafts axis. The transparent scan area represents a 54deg scan angle.

This window should work for most builds except maybe the DT40 wides and the like.

I'll be placing my order in about a weeks time.

Hope this helps

Kit

[andy_con]

just purchased this and only got it yesterday.

fooking amazing, just put 2.6watts of red through it and only lose 50mw.

[kitatit]

hi Andy,

Sweet
Sounds like this stuff can't be beat for the money.

MMMM....2.6watts of red very tasty.

What red are you using?

[andy_con]

yeah very nice stuff but it did cost £30 total so not cheap but worth the money

just a home made setup

[jaycey]

yeah very nice stuff but it did cost £30 total so not cheap but worth the money

just a home made setup

LOC....a plenty

[andy_con]

something like that

[taggalucci]

G'day Kit!

Please can you count me in for 2?

Cheers,
Tony

[kitatit]

yeah very nice stuff but it did cost £30 total so not cheap but worth the money

just a home made setup

Wow that's Awsome!
I was going to buy all turnkey modules before the blue revolution.
The 2w Blue Kwant/1.8w RGBlasersystems module I was considering will be a home made job now.
At this stage my plans are for a 3.2w red from Kvant.
I love the challenge of machining And assembling precision gear
but I think I'll tap out on building a red of this scale.

It will be a while off till I buy my red so maybe they will develop some higher power
red diodes by then but for now the cost/results eqation favours Kavant for me.

I'm looking forward to the blue build though.

LOC....a plenty

Hi Jaycey,
I'm still a bit new to forums and the lingo. What does LOC mean

G'day Kit!

Please can you count me in for 2?

Cheers,
Tony

Hi Tony,
for sure mate.
Great, we are off to a good start.
I'll give you an update in the next few days

Kit

[taggalucci]

Awesome, thanks Kit

LOC is for Long Open Can. Long is the length of the die and Open Can is the style of diode. The blues are closed can or LCC. Cmy understanding is that closed cans are more desirable (provided you can equal the power) as there's less risk of dirt getting onto the die which could kill the diode when lasing.

I started a thread a while ago to capture all of the diode related terms and points to note (when I knew very little). I need to update that with my acculuated knowledge and invite comment.

[kitatit]

Thanks for that Tony

I'll stay tuned for that post

The revolution has prompted me to
seek a much deeper understanding
of diode/optics/driver technicalities.

Speak soon