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Thread: Interlock over Ethernet

  1. #1
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    Default Interlock over Ethernet

    Hi guys,

    Don't know if there is a post like this but I couldn't find it.
    What I like to do is run interlock over the same Ethernetcabel that I use to connect the QM2000.net to my laptop.

    The interlock uses 6 lines:
    - 2 for keyswitch
    - 2 for resetswitch
    - 2 for LED

    If i'm right ethernet uses only 2 pairs of the 4 pairs. I would like to run over the other 2 pairs the 2 switches. The LED will not be transferred and will be left on my stagebox that i will build.

    I will get the next configuration:

    Stage FOH
    1. Ethernet 1 ------------------ Ethernet 1
    2. Ethernet 2 ------------------ Ethernet 2
    3. Ethernet 3 ------------------ Ehternet 3
    4. Keyswitch ------------------ Keyswitch
    5. Keyswitch ------------------ Keyswitch
    6. Ehternet 4 ------------------ Ethernet 4
    7. Resetswitch ---------------- Resetswitch
    8. Resetswitch ---------------- Resetswitch

    Can i use this or is tis effecting the working of my laptop/dac or interlock connection? There will be a 100Mbit connection. That will be enough right?

    The reason that i want to use this setup because it saves me a lot of cables running from FOH to the lasersetup.

    Thanks already for input and/or suggestions!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    Default

    This is how our emergency circuit works:

    Inside projector: http://www.krom-hout.nl/doc/Projector.pdf
    Inside QM/Switch: http://www.krom-hout.nl/doc/Emergency.pdf

    Inside the network switch case pin 4,5,7&8 are wired parallel and not connected to the "real" switch inside the box.
    If you connect it to a normal switch (or directly to your laptop), the projector will work without the security system.

  3. #3
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    Default

    Ok that is something i have in mind. Only i have a D-sub 9 interlock out on my projector. The 2 switches over ethernet should work I think. But do you have no interference or losses with the both trough the Ethernet?

    I will make 2 boxes. One for on stage and one for on the FOH. These will combine/split both signals. Nothing fancy just a analog extension. There will maybe some losses on the way. Not afraid that it will be a problem. But before i start i want to know if some one already made something like that and had some issues or not with this setup.

  4. #4
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    Rizard, i think this is what your looking for :

    http://shop.stanwaxlaser.co.uk/ilda-...ptor-347-p.asp It wires all the signals over cat 5.


    Interested in 6-12W RGB projectors with low divergence? Contact me by PM!

  5. #5
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    Default

    I have done exactly what you are trying to do. I have wiring diagrams and photos if you like.

    What Edison is suggesting is different. That's ILDA over CAT5 not Ethernet + Remote over single CAT5 (which is what you're after).

    Just remember you cannot use the mixed signal through any other Ethernet device, like a router or switch. You will need to split the signal first.

  6. #6
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    Oh so in otherwords you can only do an unsafe show by having the emergency stop connected to the projector hanging way up in the air. Of course you can run a second cable for emergency kill switch (that most people won,t do when the distance is bigger then 10 feet.) to the workbench where you control the projector but i think not many people are worry about this I always wondered how people managed to have their emergencykill switch close at hand. The funny thing is that this problem ( running multiple cables for ilda signal and emergency kill switch) is been arround for quite some time. At least 2.5 years since i have been on PL. Why didn,t anyone here at Pl developed junction box so that you have ilda signals and emergency stop and all other signals that you need to do a Safe show and have only 1 cable? @ taggalucci, why not make your design public or commercially available? That would help more people with having the same problem.


    Interested in 6-12W RGB projectors with low divergence? Contact me by PM!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by edison View Post
    @ taggalucci, why not make your design public or commercially available? That would help more people with having the same problem.
    Sure thing (seeing as there's interest)! Just give me some time to draw it up properly and take some decent photos

  8. #8
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    Sneak peek...

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Safety Remote & Ethernet Muxer.jpg 
Views:	45 
Size:	58.6 KB 
ID:	32071

    More info to come...

  9. #9
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    @ taggalucci: Yes something like that!

    In that way you can hook up an switch after you spilt back and control more then 1 QM if you like. You use the 2 pairs that are not used by the ethernet connection to hook up the 2 switches that are needed (keyswitch and resetswitch) to control the interlock. But if I'm correct you did this already and had no problems with this design? The maximum speed you can get then is 100 Mbit, guess that's enough to control you lasers but I was afraid that with the possible losses you could have, the emergency switch or the QM would fail. Only thing with this design is that the control LED can't be transferred. But that's not a big of a deal. Maybe I'll add an option to connect a LED that you can place on a place that you can see from the FOH. So you know that the interlock is working hahaha. I'll think I'm gonna visit a electronic store tomorrow! made already some wire diagrams It's sure handy a education in electronics hahaha

  10. #10
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    All connected up...
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Safety Remote & Ethernet Muxer (connected).jpg 
Views:	53 
Size:	53.5 KB 
ID:	32077
    Ethernet and Safety Remote "multiplexed" over 1 CAT5

    Circuit diagram for the remote...
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Wiring Schematic (Stanwax-Compatible External Remote) v1.0.jpg 
Views:	27 
Size:	38.0 KB 
ID:	32078
    Stanwax's DB-9 pins 5 & 7* = RJ-45 pins 7 & 8
    Stanwax's DB-9 pins 4 & 8* = RJ-45 pins 4 & 5

    * Please note: For those using this in the context of Rob's very nice ILDA boards, the pin-out does depend on which way Rob (Stanwax) wired the DB-9 to the board (I have 2 boards from Rob, one wired from the top of the board, the other from underneath).

    I'm working on a circuit diagram for the junction boxes, though this could be worked out from the above info. I'm looking at something that may allow the LED(s) to also be included in the 4 spare wires...

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