i only had a 22ohm 1w and a 56ohm 10w at home
so i tried both almost same result except the 1w got to hot
it didn't help so much
could a Schottky or germanium diode in parallel with the gm20 help?
i only had a 22ohm 1w and a 56ohm 10w at home
so i tried both almost same result except the 1w got to hot
it didn't help so much
could a Schottky or germanium diode in parallel with the gm20 help?
Teknofon .... top right .... white box.... type GM20 .... thats what its there for
seriously though .... we have had many a discussion here about GM20 drivers ..... both steve and Pat came up with some excellent sollutions
there is a thread here ( just to save you searching )
http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...highlight=GM20
i currently use a driver with an opto ( just to isolate the 12v supply from the 5v and also isolates the induced crap from the coil ) it works well and stops the twanggggg in the actuator
heres my circuit that i currently use in my projector
all the best
Karl
untitled.bmp
15 charcters................
Steve
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what pins should i use then?
laser fx says this
http://www.laserfx.com/Backstage.Las...Pinouts32.html
is it wrong?
Jim is right for the newer ones.
Depends on the GM20, older ones have 4 wires and thus two coils. Mine are almost all the 4 wire, two coil version. Some newer ones with the molded in connectors have one coil. If you have two coils, generally you wire them in series.
Steve
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how fast can i drive the gm20?
can i drive them in say 400hz?
i´m building a color box
poor man pcaom
ps what if i bias the gm20, does it still bounce around then
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I should have rented the space under my name for advertising.
When I still could have...
is there a simpler way to do it?
maby with a power op-amp?
Sure, same basic circuit but replace the opamp and current amplifier stage with a power opamp.
Might need to fiddle with the compensation some to get everything stable.
Regards, Dan.