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Thread: Running the XJ-A140 With Missing Diodes

  1. #101
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Poland
    Posts
    322

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    Hi,
    I did two, 360 EUR each for repair, 6mth warranty for blue module only.
    C.a. 1mth waiting for spare parts.
    Piotr.K

  2. #102
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    167

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    im sorry but i couldn't understand the last part,360 euros...hmm gotta find out how much that is in dollars..6 month warranty not bad at all.

    now when you sent it back where there any particularities to follow? where the lasers removed from the diode block? the diode block/ribbon cable/anything missing? or was everything there as it should be?


    thanks for your reply,its greatly appreciated


    Keith.

  3. #103
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    167

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    OMG $500 bucks for new lasers to be put in,,,think ill just buy 6 or 8 lasers and do it myself! lol again thank you Piotr


    anyone out there got a good deal on lasers?

  4. #104
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    167

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    anyone have any new developments? any new results tricking the projector into operating normally?

  5. #105
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    167

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    i know alot of people have taken these lasers out,but has anyone attempted to put them back in? is it difficult?

  6. #106
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Cairns, Australia
    Posts
    1,896

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    Quote Originally Posted by kobra000 View Post
    i know alot of people have taken these lasers out,but has anyone attempted to put them back in? is it difficult?
    I have, not really difficult at all. You need to remove the solder from the ribbon cable first though.

  7. #107
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    UCSB
    Posts
    715

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    It is a thermal overheat sensor, which is mounted in the diode block to as a backup safety device. You can safely short it out for projector mods, the 2 small thermistors on the flex pcb also trigger the overheat protection if the diode block gets too hot. In fact the later model projectors skip the white sensors entirely, presumably they were dropped as a cost saving measure.

  8. #108
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    167

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    exactly how do i short this thing out? from what i hear im not even entirely sure i will nee it,can the small ones on the flex PCB be tricked or shorted out? or is that unwise? all my projectors are XJ-A140'S so im not sure if they use them or not,

  9. #109
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    UCSB
    Posts
    715

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    You can simply solder a bit of wire between the 2 pins, it is simply being checked for continuity. The small ones on the flexpcb can be tricked by replacing them with a 10k resistor, but it is not a bad idea to have some type of thermal overheat protection on your heatsink should the exhaust vents get blocked.

  10. #110
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    167

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    Krazer..cool cool now im getting a bigger picture of these things..


    ok here is my setup at the present time,i got a 2400 lumen led from deal extreme.com,plenty of ribbon cables to work with (thanks Pete! and Dan,you guys rock!) 5 projectors to brutalize lol,but what i need to know is this.
    what is the voltage output of 1 station on the ribbon cables?
    are the lasers ran in series or parallel?
    what is the amperage output of one station on the ribbon cables" (i dont have an amp meter or any lasers to act as a load to test this)

    My LED is rated 18 volts at a max of 4 amps,below is a quick link if you want more info on it,t has a voltage range of 16-18 volts...some have said it can do 20 but this is vary dubious if it will last long at that voltage. and im having a very hard time of trying to find out what exactly the pws in the projo is sending out to the lasers ..my plan is if say the ribbon cables are pumping out say 2 volts each at 1 amp each (just an example) i could then simply combine a few stations in series ( i think,I get series/parallel confused often) which will double my voltage with each addition and leave my amperage the same...the guys on youtube tell me that running the led at 4 amps is pretty dangerous for the led and its safer to run it at 2 amps or less..with 1.6 being optimal..without solid data on the volts/amperage needed to power 1 laser (let alone 24),im kind left scratching my head.
    i did the mod that was in the earlier posts about shorting pins 4 and 9.the projector came on and i was able to get a very faint image using a small flashlight that i put inside the projector and closed the bay door and screwed it down,again the image was faint..(lol like a 5 lumen flashlight) but its a start,..for some reason the projector shut off about 2 min later,im still trying to figure out why.most likely thermal failure...it looked as if the image had alittle color to it..but it was so faint i couldnt really tell.
    but for a nerd like me it was a wonderful proof of concept.and if i can get the thing to stay on indefintely,then heck i might go external power source for the light.


    any help/data/advice is most appreciate.

    thanks

    Keith.


    http://www.dealextreme.com/p/30w-240...-16v-18v-39959

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