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Thread: Running the XJ-A140 With Missing Diodes

  1. #151
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    Hey,

    That image was just a screenshot of the PCB layout from Eagle, not a schematic. It's basically just an easy board for soldering a bunch of SMD diodes in place, instead of soldering together a ton of through-hole versions during testing.

    The OP suggested 15 Ohms for an entire channel, not per diode. So 15 ohms x 4 would be 60 ohms, if it worked like that. I'm fairly certain it doesn't. I don't think you can combine channels in parallel and then cumulatively apply the resistor trick.

    In most of my testing, I've just used simple 1N4001 diodes. But for my board, I wanted to use as few componants as possible, so I just found the diodes with the crappiest (highest) voltage drop on Digikey that I could. I never ended up actually ordering them for my board, because before the fabricated PCBs arrive, I recognized that the problem was no longer electronics, it was collimation of the LED light. The need to push forward on the electronics front really isn't there until the LED collimation challenge is resolved.

    "what im failing to see is if your saying the entire laser array only uses 28.5 volts @ 1 amp (1 amp for all 24 lasers) or if your saying each string uses 28.5 @1amp"

    - Each string uses ~28.5 @ 1 amp

    "(which should give me a theoretically total of 114v @ 4 amps) if each string is ran in series and each string is producing 28.5 volt,then it should be entirely possible for me to connect 1 string to another,(series circuit to series circuit) get more voltage and current,use whatever i need to power what i want ,and then feed the surplus to diodes and or resistors to bring the entire load down."

    - Definitely not. Whatever is regulating the string internally within the projector, is almost certainly fed in parallel from the projector's PSU. If it was possible to series the strings together and quadruple the voltage, then we would have invented an awesome new voltage boost driver You *might* be able to parallel the strings, but I'd bet my life on the fact that you can't series them.

    "Ok what im interpreting is this,out of the available 28.5 volts in one string your using 13v and feeding the rest to diodes to (not entire clear on your hookup method) .now if its confirmed that the total output of 1 string is 28.5v (4.75vx6=28.5v)..then i should be able to use up to and including 28.5 volts from 1 string (six potions) to power whatever led i choose.from a 1 volt to a 24 volt led (i have a xj-a 140 @ 2300 lumens so im going to assume its got more current.) @1 amp current"
    - Yep, that's pretty dead on. I'm dropping the rest of the (28.5-13) with diodes, simply by placing the diodes in series. The only glitch is where you said "from 1 string (six potions)". I'm not sure if you meant that there are 6 strings, but I'll clarify:
    --- The projector has 4 string (or as I call them, channels). Each channel runs 6 LDs in series, at aprox 28V total drop per string, and the string runs at somewhere around 500mA to 1A (apparently) depending on the projector model.

    Polarity is simple:
    - The squared most eadge of the flex cable is the edge that carries the (-). Then it alternates back and forth all the way to the other side.

    Regarding collimation:
    - If we take wisdom from the LD arena, it's always easier to get a tight beam from a smaller emitter size. By that logic, something like an XML or SST-90 emitter would be ideal if there was a blue version. I don't know if there is, but you run into a bigger problem when you start looking at those types of emitters. They tend to use higher current, lower voltage. So a 28V string that delivers 1A is going to be of fairly little convenience for an emitter that wants 3.5V and 3A.

  2. #152
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    Jul 2011
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    cool cool,now we are getting somwhere...now we got data to go on.

    Yeah i found a cool thing running down the various types of leds,i think i posted it last night..if not here it is http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/609074
    it has the SST-90 at the leader of the pack,the progressively shows other with lesser and lesser specs...but yeah i also notice that like an SST 50 or 90 uses 3amps or more of current....dont think there is anyway we can use them
    i havent seen many leds that can produce even 800 lumens at 1amp or less..but who knows perhaps there is a gem out there somewhere that we havnt found yet.
    i also looked at alot of different collimation systems lasting..ebay has alot to choose from.

    well i have five projectors and 20 flex cables...i think one is going to have to be sacrificed to see if we can series them...if it works i will be posting full pictures and video.

    yes 6 LDS=six positions.

    cool i really really needed the polarity charted out..thanks man,appreciate it.and thanks for everything else.


    Keith

  3. #153
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    The thing about an SST-90, is that it's white. If you go white, you're going to loose ~80% of it just based on all the wavelengths that don't make it through the dichros or don't excite the green phosphor disc.

  4. #154
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    do you think some type of 445nm filter could be used?

    ive seen a few at anchoroptics.com and edmundoptics.com (man they gotta lot of stuff)

    could you take a picture of your setup that you have..i just need a visual to get a better idea of what you did..but ya know at your convince.

  5. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by kobra000 View Post
    do you think some type of 445nm filter could be used?

    ive seen a few at anchoroptics.com and edmundoptics.com (man they gotta lot of stuff)

    could you take a picture of your setup that you have..i just need a visual to get a better idea of what you did..but ya know at your convince.
    A filter carries all the same challenges as using nothing at all. Whether a filter is blocking the non-blue wavelengths, or the dichros/phosphor disc are making them useless, you're still essentially discarding most of the light from a white emitter.

    There's really not much to photograph. Just wires soldered onto each channel, going into 10 or so diodes and a LED emitter plate in series per channel.

  6. #156
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    have you lux metered how much available light your receiving at the screen with your setup?....how many leds are you running again? 2 or 3?....at such low current.(800ma right)..i wouldn't expect much.

    well see i was going to use your photograph as how to guide basically, i get a better feel and understanding of what im doing from pictures..if you can id be appreciate it alot.

  7. #157
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    could you mark in this picture what you were talking about with polarity? Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #158
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    I can tell you without a lux meter that I'm essentially receiving zero (or very close to it) blue at the screen. There's not even enough to provide the slightest tint of magenta to the otherwise entirely red output.

    I'm running 4 LED emitters, with a "china" rating of 800 lumens at their rated current/voltage. I'm hitting that current/voltage dead on, but the 800 lumen "china" rating is surely not realistic. Even still, if there was even 400 lumens of output from these panels, and 4 of them, 1600 lumens is plenty of light to see some output - if the light was collimated even close to properly.

    In those pictures, find the diode loop on the far right. Find the right hand side of that loop. There's your (-). Then move to the left, you get (+). That repeats 4 times moving leftwards.

  9. #159
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    ok im going to annot take a pic and see if i got it right...

  10. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by kobra000 View Post
    ok im going to annot take a pic and see if i got it right...
    The photo isn't showing up on my end.

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