Running the XJ-A140 With Missing Diodes

[kobra000]

here is a great sight with many collimators for just a few euros each...ive already found a 4 degree one that works perfectly with luxeon rebels,cree or phlatlight SSR-90 sst-90. 4 degrees..man thats pretty tight..i found a 1.7 degree lens but i cant find anywhere that sells it.at all! LLC49R if you guys can search that lens out and see if you can find any sellers..man i would really appreciate it,seriously

thanks
Keith.

http://translate.google.com/translat...3Ddesc%26p%3D2


and here is what i think we all have been waiting for a -3 degree collimator for most LED's,cheap cheap cheap! too.
http://www.ledsupply.com/opk2.php

[kobra000]

hey guys

does anyone have a link to where i can buy the SST-90?..i keep seeing them on ebay for 2000 and 2300 lumens but when i run the manufactuer part number that they supply,it comes back as alot less than what the ebay seller states on sights like mouser and digikey and they are saying that the SST-90 OR SSR90 goes up to 8,000k.when the highest i have seen in its data sheet is 6500k....me thinks they be massively BSing on there listing!
if anyone has a link to an SST-90 SSR-90 LED from a reputable seller id very much appreciate it.

thanks

Keith.

[OzOnE]

Hi,

Yep, there are different "bins" for the LEDs which tell you the min / max rated lumens, and the colour temperature. (as on datasheet page 3 onwards)...

http://www.luminus.com/products/SST-90_2_3543760270.pdf

I'm sure some sellers are sending the lower rated ones, but I've also seen errors on the commercial sites.

Are you going to try making the colour wheel, or do you just want to try "black and white" for now?

I'm still working on the sequencer / driver board btw. I'm just trying to work out how to fit it onto a small PCB.

It's a bit strange about the lumens thing. That site described how I understood lumens years ago, but there is conflicting information which makes me think the calc for lumens includes the human eye's sensitivity to the different colours?

I think the easiest way of estimating lumens is by using a lux meter, and setting the projected image to 1m squared. I think this will give the approx lumens?

Please don't spend too much money on LEDs. Do you ultimately want a colour projector?

OzOnE.

[kobra000]

Ozone

oh yes my goal is to get a operating color projector..but because i have no experience with controllers or micro controllers or programming i have to go with the "low jack" method..i was thinking of trying to do it based on RPM..i ordered a few sheets of Red Green and Blue Film from edmundoptics.com and im going to sit down and make a few wheels with them where Blue is at the start,middle and end (with red and green alternating between them as well)..then run them at various RPMs inside the projector (the "color wheel" motor im using is a re purposed PC fan that i cut the fins off of and some mini DVD's in which i striped the DVD film off of (3 days in Caster oil super Clean!) once i get the color film its simply a matter of cut and epoxy them on in the proper sequence..im using crystal clear epoxy so it wont inhibit the colors any,im also thinking of using a cannibalized CD rom motor as well.(if i can figure out how to power it).cause im thinking it might be faster than the PC fan by perhaps 1000rpm.
its a very quite,cool and cheap setup and i think might work very well if Murphy doesn't start kicking me in the back of the head like he usually does! , once i get the color sequence right then i just ramp up the speed..(any ideas to the proper color sequence is greatly appreciated).. when the color starts looking good..im in the ballpark...i was going to cannibalize a few from other DLP projectors i have but i dont know how to phase them in into the xj-a140. Yeah a lux meter is on the wish list.

i ultimately did end up getting a SST-90 off ebay.(only 28 bucks) and a SST-50 (15 bucks).the seller seemed to no his stuff and gave me the numbers to run. and they checked out.but we will see...i also got some Royal Blue 447nm Luxeon Rebel LED's (1000 lumens at 700ma,i got 3 of them) and some 3 degree collimator lenses from LED supply.com (which oddly enough they said when using non-white light sources the collimator effect will be even tighter than 3 degrees so perhaps i lucked out there) basically im trying to do one with a color wheel..another by trying to best approximate the lasers power and color,and intensity.(if someone could lux meter one of the lasers for me and tell me what kinda lumens range 1 laser has that would help alot!!).
and another where im running a car HID light in it just to see what white light hitting the DLP will do..(is it for a absolute empirical fact that if white light hits the DLP it will only produce a Black and White image?)

yes im very interested in your sequencer,does it get it color change cue's directly from the projector? (and if so how does it interface with the projector) or is it a stand alone type thing?..i have found if you remove the mirror assembly it opens up alot more room in there for custom heat sinks and whatnot..alot more room!

i still got my eye on that CBM-380..man with each color pulsed correctly that thing would be perfect (at least Imo) and who knows perhaps they are going to use that very LED in the next gen projectors..

[OzOnE]

Keith, the sequencer is still in progress. The AVR chip and PCB is on it's way! I'm trying to keep it simple / low cost so I can send one to you.

There are only a few connections the sequencer board will need - pin 1 from IC202 on the driver board, CIDX signal from the ribbon connector on the main board (easier to get to), then 12V and Ground from the PSU.

This will probably need the driver board to be fully modded though? I very much doubt the signals we need are available with only Krazer's ribbon mod.
This will be tricky - I might need to send you a fully modded and tested driver board + sequencer setup?

The sequencer will be made fairly small, so it can be placed inside the projector where the laser block used to be.
It's literally just a small AVR chip (with voltage reg) and three LM350 type LED drivers.

It will not only sequence your RGB LED's, but will also drive them at the correct current too!
That's assuming you don't buy something crazy like the Phlatlight's which need around 8.5 Amps each! (the sequencer will initially only handle around 3 Amps per LED / colour).

As I say, I can test all of this as soon as the parts arrive. This will mean using RGB LED's and finding a way of mixing the colours efficiently though.

Like others have said, I don't think we will get even 25% of the original brightness out of the Ca$io when using LED's.
(and that's when using the brightest one's available, like the expensive PT-120's!).

This might be bright enough for you, or just for a fun project, especially if you don't mind a smaller image size.

I want to warn people about how expensive this type of project can get - there are no guarantees it will ever work as well as you might hope.
Believe me, I've spent enough money on high-power LED's for almost this exact type of project - it was fun, but not exactly practical in terms of brightness.

tbh, I don't think they will use the CBM-380 in a projector (unless in a cheap Chinese projector). It's really designed for lighting, so the colours don't mix properly for projector use.

EDIT: Almost forgot - @kobra: If you still want to try the colour wheel method, the angles listed in my previous post should be fairly accurate...
http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...245#post218245

Don't take too much notice of the angles in the photo, but the listed ones should be close (hopefully). The most important thing is that the colours start in the correct position on the wheel. You probably have a similar pen mark on the centre of your phosphor wheel - this is where the colour should change from Green to Blue (like in the photo)!

btw, I think it will be almost impossible to get a separate colour wheel to match it's speed and sync to the original phosphor wheel!
You might be better off modding the original wheel, or just use RGB LEDs instead.

OzOnE.

[kobra000]

umm guys something wierd is going on..everytime i pull up the forum...most of the words are blacked out like some sort of black ops document and a diagnal slash with the words "censored" are at on in the upper left hand corner....does anyone know what the hecks going on?


Keith.

[kobra000]

ok this "censored" black stripe and almost 90 percent of the text of the forum being blacked out is weird,but i think its something to do with this Pipa thing going on and seems to be a part of google.... even the google logo is blacked out too...if anyone is having this same problem can you tell me how to get rid of it please.

thanks

Keith.

[OzOnE]

Don't worry, it's nothing sinister.

It was part of a huge protest against the new SOPA / PIPA legislation that the government is planning on bringing in.
It was only supposed to be for the 18th, so it should be finished now. Google and Wikipedia were some of the biggest sites which were part of the protest.

These new "laws" will mean that ANY site could be forcibly closed down because of one tiny hint of copyright infringement (or even a simple mistake).

This goes completely against the free and open nature of the Interweb. They didn't have much success shutting down sites like P|rateB*y, so they're obviously trying an overkill method.
The problem is, it will likely affect millions of legal and legitimate sites too, and that just sucks.

For example, it's possible that parts of Wikipedia could be closed down just because a page points to anything mildly dodgy. That's just crazy - the site is the sixth largest site on the 'net and is used by millions every day.

Anyway, rant over. Let's just hope we can stop this bullsh|t from happening. It's just the start of many things to come.

OzOnE.

[kobra000]

yeah really that would suck..i think it would also allow big brother to bully into anyone's they chose life under the guise of "the law" in anyway he wanted to then... its weird how mans fundamentally existence seems to be only to control his fellow man in anyway he can and if cant..he destroys his fellow man anyway he can... (hmm i wonder if the Alterians have a good job market and housing thing going on..i wanna move!)

thanks man i appreciate it


Keith.

[kobra000]

hey guys whatsup


ok so far for the last few weeks i have been hunting down collimators...and have found some pretty good ones...if you want part numbers you should check out the LLC49R 1.7 degree the 207 Polymer Optics 2.5 Degree Reflector and this one which i just need to ask a few questions about the LLC05N..according to LednLight.com it has a -1 degree of collimation at 50% half angle and -1 at 10% half angle (no earthly clue what half angle means)...but i was wondering would this lens be worth experimenting with..i mean its so narrow its on the opposite side of 0...how narrow can ya get? lol.

this week i got my 447nm blue Luxeon Rebels in that suposedly produce 910 lumens at 700ma....here is the sight for them..http://www.luxeonstar.com/Royal-Blue...-LEDs-s/12.htm
i bought the 2nd one down from the top....

now i was told that a mw (as in milliwatt i believe) and a lumen is the same thing..but others are telling me that its different and that these lights really dont put out 910lumens at 700ma..(it says it in the product description 910lumens at 700ma).
what do you say the jury?

also..these things are incredibly small..i mean freaking tiny!! how on earth do you mount them to the core board (on order).and how do you solder them? with a hypodermic needle? im afraid to even touch them for fear of braking them..(that and i know your not supposed to) any help or advice with these little things is greatly appreciated.

also i ordered some 3 degree collimator lenses from LEDSUPPY.COM who say that when used with non white light the beam is even tighter than 3 degrees...think this might be a boon?
most of these lenses are not that expensive..the 3 degree ones i bought from LED supply.com were only 10 bucks total..the leds were 30 cause i bought three of them.(7.XX each)..so i plan to get a few more lenses and start experimenting...who knows perhaps ill mess up and hit that magic number or potion and cure all our projector problems.

any and all information and advice is appreciated.

thanks

Keith.