oh i forgot to post it....cutter electronics is great for led and led accessories..they have a crapload of collimator lenses.
oh i forgot to post it....cutter electronics is great for led and led accessories..they have a crapload of collimator lenses.
check this out guys a Luxeon Rebel at 455nm.....http://www.led-tech.de/en/High-Power...157_49_85.html
the thing says 495mw of power which according to my power calculator http://www.calculator.org/property.aspx?name=power
equals 330.8823529 Lumens ..330lumens x 24 equals 7,920 ...im not sure what the Laser diodes Lumens out put is....even from the high mega pixel cameras it's probably higher than 7,920 ...all the pics i see of them they are extremely bright or perhaps that's just a trick they are playing on my eyes by being so intensely blue and they are really only 200 Lumens or so..i dont know.. ..(445 laser diodes that is..)
just as an idea with im curious to use them in place of the laser diodes...current and voltage seems to be pretty close..specs below
Viewing Angle: 160°
Height: 2.10mm
Width: 4.61mm
Depth: 3.17mm
Emitting Color: royal blue
Housing Color: clear
Nanometer: 455
mW typ.: 275 mW
mW max.: 495 mW
mA test.: 350 mA
mA typ.: 350 mA
mA max.: 700 mA
V typ.: 3.15 V
V max.: 3.99 V
Watt: 1,1 W
it would sure be cheaper than buying Laser diodes and re installing them...these luxeon rebels are only 5 bucks american when ordered 5 or more. and i already have the collimator lenses already used by the Lasers (and they GOTTA be a more narrow angle than any! led lens i could find..
i dont know...im thinking about trying it..
Pros
cheap...5 bucks for these is better than 40 bucks for the Laser Diodes anyday
small,will mount easily on OEM heatsink
low power..right in the projectors power and current curve
high output .....330 lumens each aint half bad..though im not sure what that measurement is at 350 or 700ma
plenty of lenses on hand
Cons
small...hard to solder
takes forever to get them from Germany
what say you the jury?
oh and one more thing..has anyone seen the following type of mounting board..but sold in the states? only place i can find them sold in is Germany,but with a much much weaker LED mounted to them..
any help is appreciated.
Last edited by kobra000; 01-22-2012 at 19:37.
Hey guys how is everyone?
hey does anyone know a simple way of amplifying current?..like a just super simple way?..i was thinking of few Darlington transistor but dont know much about them..or how the circuit needs to be designed to use them....if anyone has some suggestions i really would appreciate it...i dont need much of a amplification,just a few hundred milliamps or so.
thanks
Keith.
Keith and Ozone are doing some great work here. I am happy that i stumbled across this blog and cant wait to see them succeed in getting a working PJ with LEDs thats supposed to work with lasers. I think you guys are way better than the ones at Casio or other big companies.
thanks Nitagro i appreciate that..im about to do full on testing of all my little ideas and whatnot.(diodes,resistors...i really want to do the mod that Ozone came up with but i dont really know if it will apply to a X140)
i even found a much better engine for my color wheel than a PC fan engine..7200rpm brush less motor from a Hard drive...(figured it would give me lots more room to dial in the speed of the color wheel than a 1500rpm PC fan.and i dont have to cut up 1 or 2 of my precious PC fans! plus its very very quiet and very easy to power.)
as soon as i can interface my Handycam between my laptop and the USB capture thingy i got from Hong Kong.ill be uploading pics and videos of my results.
hope everyone is doing ok.
Keith.
Yep, thanks Nitagro!
I just wanted to say that I'm still working on the sequencer board. I've been quite busy recently, so I haven't had much time to work on it.
The board has the three constant-current LED drivers on it, and an ATmega328 chip.
With the sense resistors I'm using atm, each LED driver has a maximum current of around 1.5A. This can be adjusted for lower power LEDs.
I've built the board now, but I'm having trouble programming the chip. I was intending to program it via a USB-serial cable to make it easier to re-program in future.
I will use a parallel cable instead, since it's pretty much foolproof (as long as you have a "proper" parallel port on your PC). It just requires a few extra pins to be soldered.
I haven't done much about the optical side of things. I need to get the sequencer working first, then I can play around with some brighter LEDs.
@Keith - I would imagine the laser-less mod would apply to the A140.
The current-sense signals will be at higher voltages etc., but the principle should be the same unless they've changed the PCB design?
Maybe the resistor values might need tweaking a bit?
btw, Please let me know if anyone has a photo of the A140 driver PCB. I can't seem to find one in the Interwebz.
I must admit though, it's not the easiest mod to perform unless you have a fair bit of SMT soldering experience.
I suppose it could be done by soldering small Kynar wires to each point, then using slightly bigger resistors. (tbh, this is probably harder than the way I did it though.)
Also, you could use a small multi-turn pot as the voltage divider. This will allow you to find the best possible "sweet spot" for fooling the PJ into staying on.
I haven't attempted to bypass the colour wheel yet. This will require the Index signal to be generated, so hopefully the sequencer will do this too.
Cheers,
OzOnE.
"It's like lasing a stick of Dynamite."...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ds0wYpc1eM&fmt=18
Surely all PL members have seen this movie?
Thanks awesome to know that it can be applied to A140 coz thats what i will be working on. Do u guys know the difference between 140 and 140V? Do they originally use the same light source or different?
Ozone..i have quite a few pictures of it..some dude on youtube broke one down and photographed it alot.(i think there might be a link to it earlier in these threads..people here probably hate me for all he links i post lol).but ill be darned if i can find it again.it was in Hungarian..but i did copy his websight (cant read it for crap) and all its pictures..just gotta go through my hard drive and find the pics. i cant find the dudes video on youtube anymore or the sight cause again it was in Hungarian..hopefully i still got them.if not ill break mine down and start snapping pics...i finally got a Digital camera!!
what would the resistance range of the multi turn pot be?..do you have any to recommend?
im still really interested in variable resistors or rheostats for higher power (that's what i was told) to find the sweet spot by dialing up super incrementally but i cant find one that is small enough,or steps up super small increments.idk just a idea.is there such a thing as a digital variable resistor? with led readout?
im still trying to find a Electronic speed control for the Hard drive motor.if anyone has recommendations please let me know.
take care yall
Keith.
ill try your mod on one of my 140's..but is it super necessary to remove pieces from the board or can i "neutralize" them from use somehow?
Ozone would high res scans of the front and back be better than a high res pic? i figured cause of the mico printing on it.
darn..i check and that hungarian dude at http://omegalabs.eu/html/kek_lezer.html that had the video of the tore down 140 and all the pics he took it down and all the links give a 404 error...ugh! best sight i found for XJ-a140 pics..gonna have to do it the old fashion way i guess..myself.