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Thread: Running the XJ-A140 With Missing Diodes

  1. #311
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    Jul 2011
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    THAT IS AWESOME!! so your using the projector as a precision device to illuminate the scanning target?...amazing...i had some interest in 3d scanning and was going to go the route of the modifiied XBOX360 kinect to do accomplish this,but this setup looks much much better and "looks" like it yeilds higher resolution.

    just out of curiosity,has anyone tried to remove the 3 axis acclerometer that i have heard is rumored to be inside the xja140?

  2. #312
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    Hey guys whats up? hows everyone been?

    i was wondering what is the current market price for some of the 445nm blue laser diodes? does anyone have any theyd like to sell? im looking to get perhaps 5 or 6.

    any info is greatly appreciated.
    Keith

  3. #313
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    Oct 2012
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    The German are here.

  4. #314
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    ... this was a feedback from the group-buy I've initiated in the laserfreak-forum, so 35€ were for the beamers missing the diodes ;-)

    Interstigíngly enough, my first 445nm-diodes beginning 2012 were 35€ each too, but the next (in summer) already 40€ + shipping, so the price is rising :-(

    Viktor

  5. #315
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    Quote Originally Posted by kobra000 View Post
    just out of curiosity,has anyone tried to remove the 3 axis acclerometer that i have heard is rumored to be inside the xja140?
    Not a rumour, there is one, but it's in an annoying QFN package about 4x4mm. I swear I had a pic of it so I could give a part number but can't seem to find it.

  6. #316
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    It is in all of the XJ-Axx series, it is 3 axis, the top code was 'XL 335B #1001 8837P' for the projector I was looking at. Couldn't find any data on it at the time, but it is probably similar to any cell phone accelerometer (although does have the advantage of having an analog output, which is getting hard to find these days), ex http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...YVYalZPTeZg%3d

  7. #317
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    Quote Originally Posted by krazer View Post
    It is in all of the XJ-Axx series, it is 3 axis, the top code was 'XL 335B #1001 8837P' for the projector I was looking at. Couldn't find any data on it at the time, but it is probably similar to any cell phone accelerometer (although does have the advantage of having an analog output, which is getting hard to find these days), ex http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...YVYalZPTeZg%3d
    Do we know where they are located in the projector. I looked though a unit but did not see anything that looked like the one in the link on mouser.


    Quote Originally Posted by kobra000 View Post
    Hey guys whats up? hows everyone been?

    i was wondering what is the current market price for some of the 445nm blue laser diodes? does anyone have any theyd like to sell? im looking to get perhaps 5 or 6.

    any info is greatly appreciated.
    Keith
    Have plenty. Hit me up.

  8. #318
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    May 2009
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    It is next to the main processor
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	accelerometer.JPG 
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    The 3 test points right next to it are connected to the x,y,z outputs if you want to test it without removing it from the projector (the projector needs to be on of course).

  9. #319
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    Sep 2010
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    Munich Germany
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    Hi guys,
    tody I tried to mod my projector the same way, like OzOnE did, but now it can not start it anymore
    Power light is green after pressing the power button, then the temp light starts to flash red...after some seconds the power light went red.
    I deactivated branch 1,2,4 with OzOnE's methode (330 Ohms to Vout and 1K to ground for voltage sense bypass).
    branch three schould still work, there are all 6 Diodes connected.
    All Temp sensors are still connected.

    I used a different driver board from another A XJ 130..not the build in one... could this be the problem..??

    Does anybody have an idea, what could be wrong?

  10. #320
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    Dec 2009
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    Devon
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    Hi, matratzki,

    It's been a while since I looked at this stuff (I still have the three Ca$io's sitting on the shelf), but IIRC, yes R368 and R366 should be the current sense resistors for 1 and 4 respectively.

    (here is the mod post for reference)...
    http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...586#post216586

    I'm not sure how the projector will react to different numbers of diodes on each bank though?
    Even with the voltage sensing bypassed, I don't know if there are other protections? It's unlikely, but you never know.

    The mod seemed to work fine for long periods of time afterwards, even in the different ECO modes.
    I don't know if they've changed the firmware on certain driver boards though?


    Firstly, an important point is that the mod doesn't do anything for the Red Phlatlight part of the driver board, so that MUST be plugged into the board as normal (as well as it's TEC cooler plug).
    Unfortunately, the mod doesn't disable the phosphor wheel either, so that needs to be plugged in and fully working.

    OK, so with the current AND voltage sensing on banks 1 and 4 disabled, I guess the bypass should work as normal?...

    Also note - The resistor divider values I used for the voltage-sense inputs (on IC112) were chosen to reflect what I saw with some big power resistors connected to the laser banks.
    (I've never owned any Ca$io's with the laser diodes intact, so this is the only way I could test things.)

    It's likely that each driver board is programmed for the expected voltage drop on each bank, but I would hope the range / tolerance is fairly wide?
    The resistor dividers should give a fairly linear response relative to the outputs from the DAC, so I don't really know what could be stopping your projector from staying on?

    Did you try doing the full mod by connecting together pins 58,59,60,61 on IC112 before connecting the divider?

    Sorry, I know the old photos are very blurry...
    http://imageshack.us/f/17/a130laserlessmodozone13.jpg/

    My memory isn't great, so I just have to reacquaint myself with the mod. lol...
    I don't have the modded driver board any more, so I'll try to explain the mod with a bit of ASCII art (might do a proper "schematic" later on )...

    DAC (IC110) VOUT1--------IC112 pins 62,63,64,65.

    DAC (IC110) VOUT1--------390 ohms--------IC112 pins 58,59,60,61--------1K to Ground.


    So, the "VOUT1" output from the DAC (supposed to be current control for bank 1) connects directly to the current sense inputs on IC112.
    The voltage sense inputs needed the slightly lower signal level, so it first goes through the 390R resistor before going to the voltage sense inputs on IC112 (then a 1K from the IC112 pins down to Ground)


    btw, I noticed you said "330 ohms", you might need to use 390 ohms, or the voltage-sense signal will be a bit too high.
    Also, if you need bank 3 to stay working, but with the voltage sensing disabled, you'd need to NOT remove R367, and leave the current sensing enabled by NOT connecting IC112 pin 64 to the other pins.

    tbh, it wasn't really intended for any diodes to be left connected.
    In fact, I wouldn't recommend it, as there will be no proper current regulation with the mod in place!

    I don't know exactly how this is going to work, and it's possible that this could pop all of your diodes! Please be careful.

    Even with the current / voltage sensing bypassed for the other three banks, the chip is likely doing a lot of averaging of the signals and other clever stuff.
    The board is also likely to be adjusting the current based on "temperature" and light sensing after the DMD. I don't know exactly how all that stuff works either?

    Actually, I took a chance on the fact that the current control outputs for the four banks would all be at a similar / average level most of the time, so I used the VOUT1 signal to bypass all four banks.
    If the board is outputting a wildly different current control signal for one or more banks, then that could of course also confuse the PJ and shut it down.

    It also works on the assumption that the original resistors feeding the voltage sense inputs on IC112 are still in place (R109,R110,R111,R112).
    If one of the banks is left as normal, this could also be confusing the chip because the combined resistance / signal levels will be different.

    A better mod (for all banks disabled) would be to connect a wire from each of the four DAC outputs to each of the current sense inputs on IC112.
    Then, use separate resistor dividers for all four voltage sense inputs.

    What you could try is to mod banks 1/2/4 as per the guide, but leave R367 in place and don't connect pin 64 to the other pins, then add a small potentiometer in place of the resistor divider...
    The pot could then be adjusted to match the fake current / voltage sense signal levels to the average levels for bank 3 (where the REAL diodes are attached).

    Unless you use an oscilloscope, this will likely be difficult to calibrate though (especially with the PJ shutting down all the time).

    Sorry I can't be more help than that, but I've only tried the mod on ALL four laser banks at once.
    It's still possible that certain projectors won't work with this mod. The only sure way to find the proper voltage levels is to test a fully working projector first.

    Exactly which parts of the mod have you done to the board so far?
    Did you leave R367 in place, and which pins did you connect together near IC112?

    Regards,
    OzOnE.
    Last edited by OzOnE; 12-01-2012 at 11:33.
    "It's like lasing a stick of Dynamite."...
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ds0wYpc1eM&fmt=18
    Surely all PL members have seen this movie?

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