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Thread: Running the XJ-A140 With Missing Diodes

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Moscow, Russia
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Unfortunately, I don`t know. But I also want get red-only projector.
    The best way is to use logical analyzer but I do not have it in this moment.
    I hope I will be able to get good result without analyzer.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Miami, FL
    Posts
    3,590

    Default

    I think it may be due to the missing thermal sensors that were on the diode block?

    or did you get it running with nothing at all plugged into the LD connector?

    my projectors give me the 3 red LED's if I try and turn them on without the diode block (or any modification)

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    St. Louis
    Posts
    526

    Default

    No it does not turn red until I try to power it on.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    167

    Default doing this mod with NO diodes?

    Hello

    I am new to the forum and i apologize if this is a reply to an old thread..but i was wondering if this mod will work with a projector with NO diodes in it at all...im attempting to get some XJ-AXX up and running again using a LED system and was wondering if anyone used this mod for a projector with no diodes in it....my idea was to run a 15-50 watt Chinese cartridge style LED..ya know the ones floating around ebay all the time...off the power source or on a independent power source..
    50,000 hour shelf life..10,000 lumens at i think a max of 36 volts but it can be made variable...ive enclosed a pic for reference.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I just wondered if anyone has attempted this and what there yeild and problems were.

    any and all information is greatly appreciated


    thanks

    Keith.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    167

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by XDev View Post
    I found the way to run projector without any lamp(s).
    First, you need to disconnect CN905 flexible wire (mainboard <-> LD driver). After you should to isolate contact pads 2,3,4,9,10 of flex wire.
    Connect this wire to CN905, short pads 4 and 9 on mainboard.
    That`s all you need. Now you can turn projector on without any lamps.
    I tested this method a few times and received successful results.
    Attachment 25841
    Hello

    i dont mean to be bothersome,but i was wondering if you could elaborate on how to isolate the contact pads and how do you connect it to c905? solder? or some other method? i thank you in advance for any and all information.


    Keith.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Miami, FL
    Posts
    3,590

    Default

    pretty sure you would get a black and white projector then...

    unlike most DLP projectors that use a color wheel this one has a Red LED for red... then the blue lasers for blue and a phosphor wheel for green... so it alternates R/G/B or whatever very quickly to give you your "color" image

    that LED is only going to give you white... so your only going to have white as a color

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    167

    Default modding without any Lasers?

    Quote Originally Posted by flecom View Post
    pretty sure you would get a black and white projector then...

    unlike most DLP projectors that use a color wheel this one has a Red LED for red... then the blue lasers for blue and a phosphor wheel for green... so it alternates R/G/B or whatever very quickly to give you your "color" image

    that LED is only going to give you white... so your only going to have white as a color
    Thanks for your reply,i appreciate it


    well im also looking into high brightness colored LED'S like Luxeon rebels and Ostar Osram LED's....im not sure how high the colored LED's can run in-terms of Lumens...and i was also considering using colored or tinted films,lens's,crystals filters,heck perhaps even colored stones...to attain the proper color transfer,conversion,saturation,blend, balance....since its a single LCD system im pretty sure i can come up with something....what if i were to install a color wheel to change/blend the colors?. ...im positive that the spinning wheel inside of it is where where you get green light from the Blue lasers shining through it being converted... but not sure if it goes beyond that. Im planning on using as much factory equipment as i can..i know it has a red Led in it and im pretty sure all i need is a high output Blue which can be converted to green via the phosphor wheel you spoke of...its just the technical aspect that gets me...like if there is supposed to be a certain wavelength such as 445nm going through the phosphor wheel to be converted to green. all in all i think it will be an fun and educational project.

    thanks you guys for your help and advice.it is much appreciated.


    Keith..
    Last edited by kobra000; 07-10-2011 at 16:12.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Brazil
    Posts
    231

    Default Source of blue leds

    Check this link

    http://www.satisled.com/Wholesale-20w300w-led_c22

    wavelenght is not dead-on (460-470nm) but you should be able to fit a 50W unit with some good heatsinking in there.

    Cheers,

    Bruno


    Quote Originally Posted by kobra000 View Post
    Thanks for your reply,i appreciate it


    well im also looking into high brightness colored LED'S like Luxeon rebels and Ostar Osram LED's....im not sure how high the colored LED's can run in-terms of Lumens...and i was also considering using colored or tinted films,lens's,crystals filters,heck perhaps even colored stones...to attain the proper color transfer,conversion,saturation,blend, balance....since its a single LCD system im pretty sure i can come up with something....what if i were to install a color wheel to change/blend the colors?. ...im positive that the spinning wheel inside of it is where where you get green light from the Blue lasers shining through it being converted... but not sure if it goes beyond that. Im planning on using as much factory equipment as i can..i know it has a red Led in it and im pretty sure all i need is a high output Blue which can be converted to green via the phosphor wheel you spoke of...its just the technical aspect that gets me...like if there is supposed to be a certain wavelength such as 445nm going through the phosphor wheel to be converted to green. all in all i think it will be an fun and educational project.

    thanks you guys for your help and advice.it is much appreciated.


    Keith..

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    167

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by laserdj View Post
    Check this link

    http://www.satisled.com/Wholesale-20w300w-led_c22

    wavelenght is not dead-on (460-470nm) but you should be able to fit a 50W unit with some good heatsinking in there.

    Cheers,

    Bruno
    Thank you for your reply,I appreciate it

    Yeah i was planning on using the original heat sink cause its Monsterious! lol...and the "bay" looks as if it might accommodate 2 Led's per Heat sink though i think one will more than suffice..ill have to look more into this when i get them.
    (3 cheers,2 hookers,and a round of Beers for DTR at Laserpointerforums!) But im now worried about the Black and white problem that i was warned of (sorry sir i forgot your sn)...so im looking into colored LED's and different colored optics from anchor optics. colored glass lenses..and whatnot...the projector doesnt look that dificult its theoray is pretty straight forward...as long as i get blue red and green light through the lens to the LCD then i think im in business,no doubt it will take some fine tuning here and there,perhaps some holy water....and if the whole thing doesnt explode when i hit the switch/switches...ill be even better.

    I was wondering if anyone knew...with a color wheel in a normal projector..is it a constant velocity in one direction?..i have a view-sonic BJ350 DLP and its color wheel spins constantly...reminds me of an old View-master thiny..and im wondering if just using a color wheel in front of the White LED close to the lens input array.. if that will suffice?..perhaps if omit green from the wheel i wont get any "doubling up"....i hope this is understandable....any info or advice is greatly appreciated.
    thanks guys


    Keith .

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    167

    Default Power output?

    Hello again


    Ok last question of the night (hope you dont mind that kinda person cause thats me lol) but i was wondering if anyone knew the amount of electricity/power output going to the lasers while in circuit in the projector in the on state and off state..and (most importantly) is it the ribbon cable that conducts the power to the lasers or some other more stout connection? ie wires?

    see im really reallly hoping of using the internal power supply to power the LED's...this would cut down on so much costs,time,trial and error ...know what i mean?..I have no experience with lasers other than driving my dog nuts with a red one..(most hilarious thing i ever saw i swear! lol) and dont know much about the stock lasers that were factory in these projectors except they are very expensive,and very bright!. If you wouldnt know the Volts/AMps ...could you tell me where to place a Fluke 79 meter to get such readings?


    any and all info is good info and extremely appreciated.

    thank you very much


    Keith.

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