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Thread: New 110 mod

  1. #1

    Default New 110 mod

    A user on candlepower forums suggests leaving the 110 units a106 cap and resistor in place, and instead piggyback the 103 resistor next to the pot with another 103 or completely remove the 103 and replace it with a 3.3k ohm -4.7k ohm resistore. This will trick the feedback unit into sending more power to the diode to get the same reading of green beam. I tried it on one unit but cant come up with a conclusion since when I was putting back the a106 cap and 201 resistor - I lost the resistor and could only find a 100 ohm resistor. If anyone tries this let me know- heres a link to this mod.http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...ad.php?t=92374

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    802

    Default

    Hi Deez,.
    Welcome aboard

    Yes..you do want that cap in the circuit..
    Also..do NOT put a short in place of it...that will totally disable
    the regulation and adjustability .
    Also..it shorts out the output of the Op-Amp causing undo stress to it..
    Making the whole thing draw more current..
    And makes the only current limiting factor the Pass transistor..BAAAD.

    I have bought a few of these 110's and found some to use different
    boards in them ..all were LeadLights.
    But they all seem to use the same basic circuit with just a few changes.

    If you really need to mod the circuit.. the best place is at the Op-Amp..
    Also...
    There is one Pass transistor and another transistor in series with it..
    this second one is the limiting factor...
    its kind-of a neat see-saw circuit but not well implimented..
    Another..done on the cheap circuit for obvious reasons.
    Get rid of that one and you will find the circuit will respond very well..
    You will NOT need to piggyback any resistors..

    However.. start at the lowest pot setting first..
    Or, better yet,,..use a variable power supply and slowly bring the voltage up (about a little over 2 volts) and watch the current being drawn..
    You can save yourself a LOT of grief just by watching the current and know what to do before a catastrophy happens.

    Please do not run the diode past 325ma of current ..
    That is the absolute maximum that the diodes will tolerate and still have some life to them..
    And , If they are using 350mW diodes in them (REd Dot)
    Remember.. all laser diodes last the longest when run at as low a current as possible...
    Otherwise you'll blow the facet right off the front of them and FAST.

    I speak from considerable experience on these..
    I have spent prolly way more on diodes then anyone ever should
    and have blown up enough to buy a house..No BS.


    Good Luck and Dont blow them up...
    Be carefull .. we want you back...

    *^_^*
    "My signature has been taken, so Insert another here"
    http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/laserfaq.htm
    *^_^* aka PhiloUHF

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    802

    Default

    Well,

    I just moded another one just to see what would happen..
    I get a solid 35mw out of it ..made it this way to make a green to match a RED.

    I did piggy-back some resistors around the pot...
    I put a 10k on top of the top resistor (total resistance = 4.22k)
    and a 2.2k on the other (total resistance = 1.22k ).
    the pot is almost fully CCW, module pointing to the right.
    The module is drawing 320ma when warmed up in the heatsink..
    And a 2.5volt regulator to power it... SWEET

    Of course it can do much , much nore but the diode will not live long.

    This seems to be the best mod so far..
    and I didnt jumper anything else, in fact I left the second pass transistor
    in circuit ..
    Have fun
    "My signature has been taken, so Insert another here"
    http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/laserfaq.htm
    *^_^* aka PhiloUHF

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