Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 14 of 14

Thread: Red diodes

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    1,106

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by beamann View Post
    Right now I whant to replace the bad 650 diode with a nother 650 or should I insted put a 640nm in it's place.
    IMHO 640nm is going to be a better choice than 650nm or more likely 660nm. You will get more bang for your mW. If you are replacing a 200mW 650/660 with a 150mW 640, you'll get a better saturation in your reds, oranges and yellows. It'll just cost a little more.

    Quote Originally Posted by beamann View Post
    I don't know how to press it in to the o-like, it's a open can diode and is pressed in from the front of the o-like housing. I do know that these diodes (open can) are more ez to be damaged by handeling or pressing them in, Is their a special tool to insert these type diodes? or a make shift one?
    Depending on the module, you should be able to press-fit the diode into the aperture by tightening the unit in a vice. The key thing to do is make sure you use a cylinder-shaped "tool" (could be the hollow part of an old key shaft) that surrounds the diode can, but presses equally on the diode base to push the diode into the aperture. So by lining up the left side of the vice, then the cylinder tool, then the diode, then the module, then the right side of the vice, you should then be able to tighten the vice and get the diode press-fitted nice and squarely into the module.

    Quote Originally Posted by beamann View Post
    I know what the LASORB is but I don't know how to apply it here in my case, The RGV that the red module comes out of is factory made and the driver board is for all three LD modules and I belive that the multi driver board is the TTL modulator for colors blending as well
    Get the new diode, use anti-static precautions. Blob some solder across the cathode and anode. Then get the LASORB, carefully bend the bins towards each other, then bend them parallel to each other so that the result is that the LASORB pins are about the same distance apart as the cathode and anode pins. Give each pin on the LASORB a pinch with a side cutter, so that it creates a little recess the diode pins can rest in. You should then be able to connect the LASORB to the diode (ensuring the appropriate pins of the LASORB connect to the appropriate pins of the diode) with no solder and the two should "clip" together. if you hang the LASORB off the diode pins in a vice or similar, you should then be able to solder the LASORB more permanently to the diode. Also solder the driver leads to the diode pins. The recess (clipping-on) of the LASORBs you created will help keep the LASORB in place even if the solder melts whilst attaching the wires During this process you may have inadvertently separated the solder blob. Well... if you have the LASORB in place, then this is exactly the outcome you want, otherwise once the wires and LASORB are in place, quickly soften the solder blob to separate.

    You should be good to connect to the driver by then. Just be sure to check your 0v and 5v modulation signal positions with a meter across the diode connections before you do connect to ensure that the min and max current (in mA) is set according to the diode you choose.

    Then post here and tell us how you got on, with pictures and a how-to guide for the rest of us

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    Posts
    769

    Default

    The o-like style housing separates into 2 pieces that are threaded together. The end with the fins has a small brass fitting that threads down onto the backside of the diode's lip/ridge, securing it. No pressing is needed on these, that's one of the things I like about them. I always secure the brass lock-nut firmly, and use a little heat-sink grease to ensure decent heat transfer.
    -Mike
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 22lasorb_fits.jpg  



  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Phoenix,Az
    Posts
    285

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mikkojay View Post
    The o-like style housing separates into 2 pieces that are threaded together. The end with the fins has a small brass fitting that threads down onto the backside of the diode's lip/ridge, securing it. No pressing is needed on these, that's one of the things I like about them. I always secure the brass lock-nut firmly, and use a little heat-sink grease to ensure decent heat transfer.
    -Mike

    After looking at your thumbnail and compaird it to what I have, I think mine is a knock off of the o-like housing, It did not come apart, but dose have what looks like glue of some sort at where I think it comes apart at (like the 0-like dose) any ideas of removing the glue?
    BEAMANN (GODSLIGHT SHOWS)

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    1,106

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by beamann View Post
    After looking at your thumbnail and compaird it to what I have, I think mine is a knock off of the o-like housing, It did not come apart, but dose have what looks like glue of some sort at where I think it comes apart at (like the 0-like dose) any ideas of removing the glue?
    You could try a touch of heat from a soldering iron and tweezers to remove.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •