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Thread: nRGB nano whightlight laser

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by flecom View Post

    also wouldn't it make more sense to have the red first, green in the middle, and blue last?
    It looks like he's using the dichros from the Casio projectors, in which case the order is right..

    Not bad little dichros either.. especially for the price.


    Looks amazing Chad! Top notch work.. once again, I wish I was a machinist. But I'll keep my current fields of expertise instead.. no time to learn everything.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ElektroFreak View Post
    It looks like he's using the dichros from the Casio projectors, in which case the order is right..

    Not bad little dichros either.. especially for the price.


    Looks amazing Chad! Top notch work.. once again, I wish I was a machinist. But I'll keep my current fields of expertise instead.. no time to learn everything.
    well ya, but I am talking about from a powerless perspective...

    out of those colors/power levels the red is going to be by far the weakest...

    think if your going to make such a nice module getting the right dicros should be the least of your worries IMHO...

  3. #13
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    Thanks all for the comments!

    I the dicros are not from the projector. Yea, hindsight is always 20/20 for future versions I will change the layout to maximize red output. Remember Prototypes.

    DjHeadie: wow smaller, cool. I could not think of any way to make it smaller without getting into custom beam combining optics. I would love to see what you are working on. Half of the size is from the drivers. Without removing the to-220s and smashing the drivers together It came out this size. It is 1.9"w X 1.9 tall by 4"L, 5"L if you include the mounting ears.

    chad


    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro.


  4. #14
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    Curious what are you using for the green diode?

    Very nice compact looking/.
    leading in trailing technology

  5. #15
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    Thumbs up

    8P OOOO! OOOO! OOOO! EEEEE!! EEEEE!! EEEEE!! (..yes, those were ape noises...)

    Totally Knarly, dude!... ...and yes, for 'v2' and beyond, good-suggestions to incorporate small 'pass-thru' holes, corresponding to the convergence-adjs' for each mount - ie: the 'hungarian' RGB - that is, IMO, one of the single-most, hands-down, advantages over other RGB-units out-there (external convergence-access...) ie: vs, say '@rcto$', etc... makes for much-better 'real-world show-utility'... ...very, very niceums!!!

    Type to ya soon...
    J
    ....and armed only with his trusty 21 Zorgawatt KTiOPO4...

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by flecom View Post
    well ya, but I am talking about from a powerless perspective...

    out of those colors/power levels the red is going to be by far the weakest...

    think if your going to make such a nice module getting the right dicros should be the least of your worries IMHO...
    Very true... the craftsmanship is so good that it deserves properly chosen dichros.

  7. #17
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    A very nice build!

    I have to suggest you check out my mini RGB build, (laser and projector), where I found that those greens really have a hard time with temperature variations. The adjustable mounts is also a good idea, although I am going to try for solder bonding on my next build.

    How does your green modulate? Where did you get it?

  8. #18
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    Honestly, the green modulates for shit.

    It is ok for low power levels but it mode hops like crazy.

    OH. I want a solid state green.

    soon.

    chad


    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro.


  9. #19
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    I know I'm way late on this topic but I'm looking for a green to build my first projector and I was considering using one of those 150mW pointer cores off eBay. I see your review says it doesn't modulate well but I don't have much choice at the moment. Also, would someone be able to explain "mode hopping" to me? And since I don't have the money for a nice solid state green yet, the best I can do is try to replace the stock driver with a FlexMod P3. I'm just not sure the typical pinout on those modules. I know they are case positive but I'll be clueless once I unsolder the driver. Any suggestions?
    LASERS!!

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  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZeroPoint View Post
    I know I'm way late on this topic but I'm looking for a green to build my first projector and I was considering using one of those 150mW pointer cores off eBay. I see your review says it doesn't modulate well but I don't have much choice at the moment. Also, would someone be able to explain "mode hopping" to me? And since I don't have the money for a nice solid state green yet, the best I can do is try to replace the stock driver with a FlexMod P3. I'm just not sure the typical pinout on those modules. I know they are case positive but I'll be clueless once I unsolder the driver. Any suggestions?
    I've had reasonable luck with a pointer core. I just replaced its original driver with a basic analogue driver like you're planning, and it modulates well enough to give me a variety of hues.

    If you look at the driver, you should be able to work out which is positive, which is negative and which pin is not connected (though soldered to the driver) - i.e once you desolder the original driver, you can use a meter to confirm the polarity of the driver, just make a note of how it was connected.

    If memory serves me correctly, the pinout is the same as a LOC diode.

    Good luck!

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