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Thread: Maxy module advice

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    UK
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    305

    Default Maxy module advice

    Hi Every body.

    I trust youre all well.

    After a mentally busy period of work, I finally got round to putting the 150mW maxy red I have into a working projector. I have built a basic rgb unit, but it has a problem.

    I can't get the red diode to blank. The blue and green are fine, and the blue and green diodes both blank ok using the signal for the red blanking. I am using medialas black mamba for control.

    It appears that the diode " dims " rather than blanks completey.

    Any ideas ?

    I have sold this unit , so I am in a bit of a hurry to get it finished.

    I will also have some blue diodes and several sets of galvos to part with if anyone is interested.

    All suggestions gratefully received.

    Fluff
    The light at the end of the tunnel. Its' a white laser.
    www.rocknite.co.uk

  2. #2

    Default

    "The Lonuge" isnt for questions like this... please people, look in what forum to post before posting the thread...

  3. #3

    Default

    How much are we talking here? The units I have here all dim to 800 microwatts when the blanking signal is applied. Very dim dot and only visable in >10K scanning if your really looking for it.

    This condition, from my understanding, is done for diode life preservation.

    Electrical shock is a problem with direct diode systems. With blue and green they do the same thing however at such low power levels the threshold for coversion isnt met and you get no visible output.

    If the <1mW is a problem you could always apply a shutter. If that is not an option see what marconi can do.

    On a side note: Did you get my last email fluff?

  4. #4
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    Aug 2005
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    Default

    Hi Spec.

    Very visible . Difficult to judge by visual only but I'd guess at 50% rated power. The sdl unit and the spare blue I ran with it are fine and blanking is not visible at all. I'm running Yagang galvos at 24 kpps ( !! ) The blanking lines are clearly visible in both graphics and beam shows.

    It may be the black mamba usb doesn't kick out enough signal to blank the red . It's all a grey area to me as all the other units I have are ok, so i've never had to address the problem. Any suggested measuring techniques and typical readings to help solve this would be helpful. My only other option is to keep buying diodes until one works !!!!

    Do you thing a 671 dpss would be better ?

    The last email I received from you was on the 12th . I replied on the 13th.

    Drop me a line , as I do have a couple of ideas on getting things moving with odds and ends.

    Thanks.

    Fluff
    The light at the end of the tunnel. Its' a white laser.
    www.rocknite.co.uk

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    802

    Default

    Hey Fluff.,
    What is the source of the signal you are driving the module with?
    If it is directly from the computer port..it will not work correctly.
    It does not have enough drive.
    You must use a driver that is capable of at least 10 to 15ma.
    on the style module you recieved.,
    Did you try this circuit from this post?

    http://photonlexicon.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=231

    When properly blanked, You we see a very, very dim spot..
    that will not show-up during use because of eye persistance.

    As Spec, noted , you really dont want to turn on and off the diode completely
    in otherwords turning the diode off way below threshold is not a good idea.
    ...as this will damage the diode facets.
    We always recommend the use of the required Laser -Off- Shutter

    Not all TTL output levels are created equal .
    That style unit was the universal unit that can be driven Analog or TTL.
    Since, we now make two versions..
    One with improved TTL sensitivity for TTL only, and one that is universal like yours.

    If you cant get it to work for you, we can offer an exchange..

    We want you happy
    "My signature has been taken, so Insert another here"
    http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/laserfaq.htm
    *^_^* aka PhiloUHF

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    UK
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    Default

    Hey Marconi

    I'm using a Medialas USB box with the Black Mamba software ( where do they think up thses names ! ) from my Tosh portege laptop..

    I have tried the direct approach of wiring direct to the ilda port in the projector and also wiring through the Yagang TTL priority switcher fitted. This has inputs for three sources ( ilda, 9- pin and a stand alone sound trigger ed board ). This has red, green and blue outs and xy. The direct approach works best with all units I have .

    It seems I have a hole in my knowledge in the blanking area. What I really need to know is which type of diodes can be blanked, which can be fully modulated and which won't do either. ( and why !! ). Otherwise I will be wasting a lot of time and money trying to get the diodes to something they weren't designed for.

    I will have a look at your circuit, but I would much prefer the more elegant ( and easy ) option of the diodes working " as is ".

    Would your TTL version be a better option?

    Fluff
    The light at the end of the tunnel. Its' a white laser.
    www.rocknite.co.uk

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Florida
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    Default

    Yeah, That sounds like what you need..

    Send back the one you have and we will replace it with a 150
    that you will not need to build-up anything for..

    Let me know when the Post Office has it...
    "My signature has been taken, so Insert another here"
    http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/laserfaq.htm
    *^_^* aka PhiloUHF

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    UK
    Posts
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    Default

    Will do. Can you pm me your address details and I'll get it to you Monday / Tuesday next week.

    Thanks for your help. Much appreciated.

    Fluff
    The light at the end of the tunnel. Its' a white laser.
    www.rocknite.co.uk

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Switzerland
    Posts
    1,370

    Default

    Hi!
    I have the same "problem" with my red module, but mine seems to blank too slow. When the beam is supposed to stop, it go to a lower level (not zero power) and then progressively decrease (like analog blanking).
    If I increase the time of the last point with my software (Mamba too), the trace disappear.
    I use a TTL (5V - 0V) inverted signal to blank the laser, with a transistor output optocoupler.
    Maybe I have to use the full 12V of the power supply to apply to the blanking input of the laser, instead of the 5V?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Florida
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    Default

    Hey Dude,.

    I sounds maybe the first opto-coupler maybe a low freq or slow one.
    Try tying the base of the opto-couplers transistor with a 470k ohm
    resistor to negative or ground and see what happends.
    Also that module you have contains an opto in it as well
    so what you are seeing is the delay from both optos .. adding to the problem.

    We could get rid of one of those by sending the module back to us and
    we will upgrade the driver board.
    Sounds like you have an analog board instead of the TTL board.
    I will turn it around back to you No extra charge.. just pay for the
    shipping ...ok?
    "My signature has been taken, so Insert another here"
    http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/laserfaq.htm
    *^_^* aka PhiloUHF

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