Casio RED Led

[Hemlock Mike]

I have the 0-30VDC / 20 Amp supply P/N HY3020E.
They also have a 0-30VDC / 3 Amp Supply. P/N HY3003 - $89.00

Look at www.mpja.com

HMike

[solderblob]

I finally ripped mine out of the housing. I got distracted with an A230, which likey has the same red, but the 24 diodes are weaker like the A130. I'm only a nooby here, and not only here, but to electronics as well. I've come a long way in two months, but still would appreciate it if you guys spoke in layman's terms when I'm in the house!

I here you talking about power supplys to run this big red, but I wonder, how many volts should I put into this thing. Maybe it's about the current and not the volts. I'm only used to messing with flexdrive's and 3 to 8v batteries. I feel I know this driver inside and out, which leads me to believe it's not going get close to this red dawg with a max output of only 1.5w

If you could point me to the needed driver and power supply, I'd be a happy camper! I mean, I don't want to spend $50 ~ $100 just do drive this thing. Maybe something around the house ~ a wallwart and driver?! I'm better with pictures than I am with words! Thanx Hemlock. I knew right what rip out of the projector. Looking forward to seeing this thing in a host somehow!!!!!!!. Thanx guys

[Meatball]

LEDs are current devices, so they ought to be "driven" for best performance.

Best to use, would be a high current regulated power supply. But if you don't feel like spending $100, there are alternatives.

You can take the current from some current regulator ICs when they're stacked in parallel, or stack entire LED driver circuits (some work for this) in parallel.

Though, what may be easier, is just "drive" the phlatlight like any other LED.

You can use a resistor to drop voltage, and limit current flow to the resistor assuming you have a low voltage regulated power supply.

An ATX computer power supply comes to mind for me.

Using the 3.3V rail, you will need a resistor to drop 1V at say 8 amps, since this LED runs at 2.3V nominally. So the resistor must be able to dissipate 1x8 = 8 watts of power.

2.3V / 8A = .2875 ohms for the resistor's value.

.383 ohms for 6A, or .23 ohms for 10A.

Hopefully you understand where these calculations came from...

[platinum]

I hear tell of a driver for these that one can purchase from DigiKey. I'll look into it.

-Jonathan

[Meatball]

Please do tell, if you can find it!

[solderblob]

Data sheet says:
(not that I can understand much)

forward voltage 2.2v min ~ 3.4v max.

25% duty cycle ...I don't know what a 25% duty cycle is. On 15, off 60!? lol

PIN # FUNCTION
1 THERMISTOR (+)
2 THERMISTOR (-)
3-5 POWER (-)
6-8 POWER (+) This might be opposite of what I read somewhere else.


I read your info "Meatball" and thanx.

I'll read and re-read it a few times and try to make sense and then do some trial and error.

[Things]

I've run my LED's at 8A max power CW, they don't generate too much heat. I mounted one on the diode array heatsink and I could run it for quite a few minutes before it got warm.

They can probably take more than 8A pulsed though, but I dont know why you'd need to.

[Meatball]

Maybe because we can? What LEDs do we have lying around with which we can pump 10A into? lol

[Hemlock Mike]

Blob ---

If the data sheet says that, it's likely right. I counted from the opposite end wnen I didn't see any numbers or code bar.

HMike

Also, Has anyone found an optic which will focus that diode as in flashlight beam? That "sled" is full of optics.
I'm not sure about the efficiency of what appear to be dicros yet.

[solderblob]

Hemlock
I'm assuming where the wires are taped together is the top. So, I'll count from top to bottom. The only markings I can see are on the blue wire itself, 24awg, 300v. I don't understand why they didn't just use two thicker wires instead of six.

You already fired yours up, so you're wiring must be correct. I'm usually OK with testing LED's with a dmm, but am somewhat hesitant about LD's as I don't know what current the dmm is putting out and if it's steady or not. The power of this phat LED is just a little bit intimidating. My highest build is a 485mA LD so far. I guess I can't hurt this thing with my meter - fluke 115.

Do I have to be concerned about that thermistor?
Data sheet says it's part #NCP15XH103J03RC from:
http://www.murata.com/products/desig...cnvs/spec.html
and it's a ntc thermistor. So, apparently it was used only for startup spikes, and doesn't do anything after it's warm other than let the phat get phatter. If we regulate the current, it seems like the same function! Don't mind me, I have no idea what I'm talking about. I just learned what a negative thermistor was 10 minutes ago.

the Blob