How to fix flicker on my laser projector?

[borgqueenx]

- Look for a galvo (don't buy it yet)
- ask for the specs (amps and wattage)
- get the specs of your current power supply and laser modules.
- Start at topic, ask for advice on the power supply and name the specs

C power: Autoswitching 100V – 240V 50/60Hz ,
Power Supply: ±24VDC @1.5A each,
Input: Analog ±5V,
Mirror Aperture: 6mm*10mm*0.8mm (7mm*11mm*0.8mm),
Mirror coating: High quality dielectric film,
Reflectivity: >98% @45°incidence(400nm-700nm),
Speed: 30Kpps@±20°(ILDA30K Test Frame)
Deflection angle: max 70° optical (factory calibration @±20°)

from the galvo's.
the rear of the projector says 220V imput.
edit: confirmed from the product page:
AC 110V Or AC220V 50~60HZ

the lasers are 200mw, 200mw and 100mw. TTL modulated.

EDIT: a video of some problems. might try opening a dispute and try sending it back, everything is glued tight, no modifications on the mirrors possible!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wieh3vRExkY

[mmuhler]

I just upgraded mine I have some Space las 30k galvos in there $214.00 with shipping still some flicker but very acceptable Its currently RGY I have a 405nm and tried installing it but it was way too dim and reflection off the dichro was so dim I could not align it I have a 445 1 watt here but currently the projector is set up projecting a Christmas show on the bay window in my house it was getting too close to Christmas to install the 445 I will be doing that after the holidays. I dont know whats in your projector but first thing you will need to do is if there are no kinematic mounts in there change to Kinematics see pic 0920 the Chinese are very crafty and they some how align the lasers with the dichroic filters on aluminum angle brackets see pic 0843 far right, you could be there for hours messing around with them once you start changing things out. take some pics of the inside of your projector and I can try to help you out I will be posting pics of mine soon I just have not had a lot of time to do it. I am attaching some pic here 0926 is before I modified it for RGB the notice the position of the 532 laser and the DMX board behind it I had to move the board see 0928 and move the laser see 0937 I then had to drill and tap holes to put the kinematic mounts in 0920 shows the custom brackets I made and one of the mounts with a dichroic filter on it. I also had to turn the galvo plate around when I put the new galvos in the beam path was too close to the front of the optic plate to align the beams the brackets where hanging over the plate not allowing for the face plate to be attached see 0843 and 0842. There were many more challenges I will post the full details soon.

Merry Christmas
Michael

[mmuhler]

Sorry I looked at the pic 0926 and the board was already moved it was the one that is now upright it was mounted to the optic plate you can see the standoffs still on the plate they have been removed and as you can see in 0937 the laser is now mounted where the board used to be.

[borgqueenx]

Thanks.
here are photos from my projector:
http://img706.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=img4095q.jpg

and here are the galvo's im looking at:
http://cgi.ebay.nl/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...RK:MESINDXX:IT

will those fit in my projector?

[norty303]

Perhaps as a reference point for this thread, we should go back and reread the salient points of the precursor...

http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...aser-projector

Out of interest, knowing what you know now, would you have still spent the money on your projector, or would you have got some more money together (e.g. the extra you'll need to find for the galvo upgrade) for something a bit better?

On the galvo thing, don't over complicate the process of changing them. They will come with a psu, driver and scanner block, you just switch out the whole lot with what is in there already. The only complex thing may be shimming the block to the correct height and locating the components if they are different shapes or sizes from what is in there already. Basic drilling and measuring skills will see you through.

There are some already tried and tested 30k galvos out there, perhaps go for one of those over some random cheap galvos you find. The Spacelas/Lasershowparts/etc sets have quite a good review for the price as are the slightly more expensive DT30's

[borgqueenx]

i hate that almost everything in the projector is glued together.
Im going to put new mirrors in my projector because i broke one, already have some in mind recommended by someone at LPF.
Alright im happy to buy better recommended galvo's if they are not much above the price i want.
but i afraid i cant chance something when i ordered, because there is glue everywhere.

happy to take more photos though, so you maby can see what to do?
Just tell me what to photograph. making a video is no problem to me as well.

[borgqueenx]

Update: managed to remove all the glue from cables - expect for one. One cable broke and i managed to put it back together with extra strong glue. But now it is kinda glued to the chip, crap! Its the green laser module cable...will i need to replace that chip if i replace a complete galvo set?
If yes i have a problem, unless the chip also comes with a new galvo set.

I will probaly buy a set of adjustable 3d dichro's and 30k scanners both from spacelas, including dhl shipping.

[Stoney3K]

If the projector still works, here's a quick fix:

Move the projector further away and reduce your scan angle. You will be able to scan at higher rates because the galvos need to travel less distance.

If your projector is dead but the laser still works, just give it some time and bolt in some quality galvos. DT30 should do the trick.

[RayTracer]

I was not sure what you meant when you said a cable broke and you glued it back together. If it was an electrical cable, then to function correctly after the repair, it needs to be re-connected in a way that produces electrical continuity. Glue would not normally be the best way to assure this. Instead, strip about a half inch of insulation off the cable on both ends of the break and twist the bare ends together so they don't just fall apart when you let go and then solder the bare metal wires together. After which you would want to insulate them by wraping the exposed metal wires with a non-conductive coating like electrical tape or heat shrinkable tubing. All this should be done with the laser turned off and you should first eliminate any static charges from your body by touching ground or wearing a grounding strap. (Ground meaning something electrically connected to the earth, like the screws that hold your light switch covers on the wall.) While you've got the metalic wires exposed, try not to let them touch anything else in the laser. If any of this seems over your head in any way, then you might want to get some help. Any electronic repair shop should be able to fix that broken cable if you point it out to them.

Sorry if I'm being overly simplistic here. I might've misunderstood the post about the broken cable.

[borgqueenx]

I was not sure what you meant when you said a cable broke and you glued it back together. If it was an electrical cable, then to function correctly after the repair, it needs to be re-connected in a way that produces electrical continuity. Glue would not normally be the best way to assure this. Instead, strip about a half inch of insulation off the cable on both ends of the break and twist the bare ends together so they don't just fall apart when you let go and then solder the bare metal wires together. After which you would want to insulate them by wraping the exposed metal wires with a non-conductive coating like electrical tape or heat shrinkable tubing. All this should be done with the laser turned off and you should first eliminate any static charges from your body by touching ground or wearing a grounding strap. (Ground meaning something electrically connected to the earth, like the screws that hold your light switch covers on the wall.) While you've got the metalic wires exposed, try not to let them touch anything else in the laser. If any of this seems over your head in any way, then you might want to get some help. Any electronic repair shop should be able to fix that broken cable if you point it out to them.

Sorry if I'm being overly simplistic here. I might've misunderstood the post about the broken cable.

Ive stripped some off the cable and then touched the wires to each other, then ive put glue on it.
Its very strong glue and works brilliant now...but i wont be able to de-connect the cable now.

The question is: is the chip where the cable is connected to, has something to do with the galvo's? I cant replace that chip now