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Thread: flex p3 driver solder problem

  1. #1
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    Default flex p3 driver solder problem

    ive been soldering my whole life i would say im pretty good. theres nothing wrong with my iron ive been using it all week, but i cannot and i mean cannot get the solder to join the gold contact on the p3 driver.

    ive held the iron on the contact for ages to try get the solder to stick, around the gold contact has blister but again it wont stick. ive even tried flux but again nothing.

    anyone else have this problem?
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  2. #2
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    Perhaps a gentle scuff with some emery cloth? I usually tin the pads, then tin the end of a donor component lead, bent at an angle. I then lay the lead on the pads, heat it all up till it flows, then nip everything off but the 2mm or so that is joining the pads.
    -Mike


  3. #3
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    sadly the connects on the driver are so tiny you can scratch them up.


    bloody driver according to the instructions the driver wont operate unless the interlock is connected.

    how do i connect the interlock up when testing from a bench psu?
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  4. #4
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    Default

    Hi Andy, for soldering to the contacts, a little bit of flux and good heat contact works great. Apply some flux to the contacts first and it will be fine.


    Connecting the interlock using a fixed power supply is easy, if you don't plan on using an interlock mechanism, just run a wire from the psu to both V+ and Interlock, or jumper from V+ to Interlock.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by drlava View Post
    Hi Andy, for soldering to the contacts, a little bit of flux and good heat contact works great. Apply some flux to the contacts first and it will be fine.


    Connecting the interlock using a fixed power supply is easy, if you don't plan on using an interlock mechanism, just run a wire from the psu to both V+ and Interlock, or jumper from V+ to Interlock.
    tried flux and didnt work, its currently bodged which isnt what i want

    ok cheer will try the jumper
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  6. #6
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    Default Coated contact?

    Maybe the contact is coated. You could test this by lightly touching it with both probes of an ohm meter to see if you get continuity. If not, you might have been "shelacked". Just a passing thought not being able to see it like you can. I've done my share of soldering all kinds of stuff too, sounds odd.

    - Mike

  7. #7
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    Yep, I had a problem with mine too - got it in the end but it ain't pretty! I'll see if I can post a pic of my jumper wire for the interlock when I get home

  8. #8
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    I'll try running one through a alcohol rinse to see if that makes them more solderable without using aggressive flux. Since it's gold plated it really shouldn't be an issue (given sufficient soldering heat) unless there is some coating on the contact. I contacted the assembler to see what they say.

    This brings me to a question.. I'm thinking about putting jumpers on the next batch (like those used in galvos) so that soldering to the board wouldn't be necessary at all. It will increase the size a bit but will make using them easier. What say you?

  9. #9
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    generally speaking solderings not a problem, so im not fussed either way.

    but im still really strugging i never have problems soldering...

    i think getting the 60watt iron out is a bit extreme for this little board lol
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  10. #10
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    I like the idea of pin headers, including on the output, and maybe on the input too. I'd gladly pay the extra component cost to have the headers and associated plugs supplied with the driver.

    BTW, so i need to electrically isolate the heatsink from the baseplate when i screw it down? I have, but as its high side, I don't think its necessary, right?

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