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Thread: flex p3 driver solder problem

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by drlava View Post
    I'm thinking about putting jumpers on the next batch (like those used in galvos) so that soldering to the board wouldn't be necessary at all. It will increase the size a bit but will make using them easier. What say you?
    My eyes aren't what they used to be.. but I do love the tiny size, and have managed thus far. I'm torn- sorry my ambivalence is no help!


  2. #12
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    Thanks for the feedback guys, I'd like to hear more about the option.

    Quote Originally Posted by norty303 View Post
    BTW, so i need to electrically isolate the heatsink from the baseplate when i screw it down? I have, but as its high side, I don't think its necessary, right?
    With the N2 you did since it has a metal tab, but the P3 version you do not, it is already isolated with a plastic tab.

  3. #13
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    yes.

    "the myth of the killer ape is true" 15

    Quote Originally Posted by drlava View Post
    I'll try running one through a alcohol rinse to see if that makes them more solderable without using aggressive flux. Since it's gold plated it really shouldn't be an issue (given sufficient soldering heat) unless there is some coating on the contact. I contacted the assembler to see what they say.

    This brings me to a question.. I'm thinking about putting jumpers on the next batch (like those used in galvos) so that soldering to the board wouldn't be necessary at all. It will increase the size a bit but will make using them easier. What say you?
    suppose you're thinkin' about a plate o' shrimp. Suddenly someone'll say, like, plate, or shrimp, or plate o' shrimp out of the blue, no explanation. No point in lookin' for one, either. It's all part of a cosmic unconciousness.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by drlava View Post
    Hi Andy, for soldering to the contacts, a little bit of flux and good heat contact works great. Apply some flux to the contacts first and it will be fine.


    Connecting the interlock using a fixed power supply is easy, if you don't plan on using an interlock mechanism, just run a wire from the psu to both V+ and Interlock, or jumper from V+ to Interlock.
    put a wire from v+ to interlock and now i get the red led??
    Eat Sleep Lase Repeat

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy_con View Post
    put a wire from v+ to interlock and now i get the red led??
    Just making sure.. you read the instructions, right?

    Had to ask. You'll get the red LED when the output loop circuit is open or has conduction issues, or is your power supply voltage is too low for the load.

  6. #16
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    i got it too when first seting this up, but if you read the manual slowly you;ll see that you need to keep the mod input sorted to ground when you set the bias

    don;t take my word for it, read it by yourself,i might be conveying something the wrong way
    "its called character briggs..."

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by drlava View Post
    Just making sure.. you read the instructions, right?

    Had to ask. You'll get the red LED when the output loop circuit is open or has conduction issues, or is your power supply voltage is too low for the load.
    have read the instruction more than once.

    modulation is connected to 5v

    im running a red diode with an input v into the driver of 5v
    Eat Sleep Lase Repeat

  8. #18
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    Why Don't you jump on the #PL chat channel so this is easier. What you say sounds ok, but it's only part of the story, and the missing part of the story is probably what is setting off the warning. It's easier for me to help you when we have a faster communications channel.

    http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/ezirc.php

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by drlava View Post

    This brings me to a question.. I'm thinking about putting jumpers on the next batch (like those used in galvos) so that soldering to the board wouldn't be necessary at all. It will increase the size a bit but will make using them easier. What say you?
    If possible a single multi-pin header at one end would be killer. Or just have the holes for it at one end so it could be added at the end users discretion.

    It would be well worth it, even if the size had to increase IMHO.

    I would pay way more for this.

  10. #20
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    i don;t know about pins... i prefer to solder everything in place if i have the option
    "its called character briggs..."

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