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Thread: flex p3 driver solder problem

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    Posts
    769

    Default Default to Low?

    I have selected the low option on all 10 or so Flexmods I have ever ever used. What about connecting the low option with a "default" trace, then offering the option of manually severing this default trace in the event the user needs the high option?
    I would be curious to know what percentage of the time other users are really using the "high road".
    -Mike


  2. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    East Sussex, England
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    5,248

    Default

    Does the FM3 have a low/high mode?

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Cleveland, Ohio
    Posts
    2,342

    Default

    The Low/High range option is only on the older N2's. The P3's we are talking about are rangeless with 25-turn potentiometers.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Omaha, NE
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    Default

    Ahh- thanks for the enlightenment


  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    Flying over a town near you
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    1,404

    Default

    Heh....after building a few of the very first units produced in a kit form, solder all the SMD components in place and off you go lasing. I really like the new driver....and the old ones I have are still in service. The only big thing I would love to see implemented into the board would be a two pin jumper style shunt....like on a HD. That way I could short the leads when a diode was changed or being swapped to another location. Just better to me than having solder two extra leads into the output. Other than that they are a killer driver. BTW any chance you have sent the parts to me I ordered? I keep looking out for a parcel...let me know. Thanks. OBTW no solder issues at all on the last few I have worked up.
    You are the only one that can make your dreams come true....and the only one that can stop them...A.M. Dietrich

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Charleston, SC
    Posts
    2,147,489,459

    Default

    I must admit I had similar problems when soldering on the new P3. And I've got a decent iron (Hexacon) too... In the end I just cranked the heat way up and held it there for a lot longer than I would have liked. It worked, but it was a lot more difficult than I expected. I've never had to do that with other boards before.

    I didn't think to scuff the pads before soldering, nor did I try cleaning them with a solvent beforehand. Mike's theory of a coated contact makes a lot of sense though... Shame that I didn't think of that when I was working on mine. We'll see how it goes with the next one. (Whenever I get time to work on it, that is!)

    Adam

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    veenwouden
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    2,580

    Default

    I would make the FB3 board slighly bigger. You can,t even use plastic snap on pins in the corner at this moment. Why does it have to be so damn small. Make to board slightly bigger and ad a connector or make the pads for soldering the wires slightly bigger. 3mm in size arround it wouldn,t hurt

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Essex, UK
    Posts
    8,648

    Default

    guys size isnt everything its what you do with it that counts
    Eat Sleep Lase Repeat

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
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    west sussex uk
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by andy_con View Post
    guys size isnt everything its what you do with it that counts
    Psml , thats what the mrs said :-)
    When God said “Let there be light” he surely must have meant perfectly coherent light.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Essex, UK
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by badger1666 View Post
    Psml , thats what the mrs said :-)
    unlucky chris

    mine says wow look at the size of that..... ive never seen one that small before
    Eat Sleep Lase Repeat

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