Argon JDSU 2214 ML help

[Elektrotechniker]

Hey again. After quite a serious thought, I started to believe that the laser is not misaligned. When I opened the package there TONS of bubble wrap and on top of that a lot of foam. The psu protection( bubble wrap ) was only opened by customs. As I said, the input voltage to the psu is ~225 V, so theoritically, the psu would not work properly in either LO or HI ?? I dunno but I would say the laser is alright. The protection in the packaging was super! Plus the previous owner( MarioMaster ) mentioned that the packaging was worse when he bought it. And it survived the shipping at his side.

Edit: I also am trying to adjust current with a pot,( pins 6, 11, 13 and the wiper to pin 6 ). I used my DMM across pins 9 and 22 to check the current while adjusting the pot, but the reading was 0.39-0.40 at voltage setting, which means 3.9-4 A. Something is wrong with the current. the tube doesnt seem to be getting enough amps. What can I try next? I really want to give up, but then again, I might be even close to get it working :/

EDIT no2: Well, i forgot to short pins 5 and 11 to enable current control. So I measured the current to be max ~10 A while turning the pot around, but there was only plasma light still...

I guess then the problem seems to be misalignment of the laser?

[Stoney3K]

Don't forget the laser was shipped from the USA to Europe.

I would expect the HI setting on the PSU to work with 240V two-phase AC from the American line grid, which is over 240V at 60 Hertz.

In the EU, the power grid is standardized at 220-240V~/50Hz. So there may be some trouble there, since the PSU is not getting enough voltage to work.

I don't know how the electrical code in Greece works, but in the Netherlands, fuses are a maximum of 16A at 230V for a single-phase connection, giving about 3500W of power headroom (or 4kW if you have the luck of a slow breaker).

Steve: What's the power drain on these total? What should be the proper tube voltage/current for it to lase? Setting it to HI *may* bypass some kind of internal step-up and use the line voltage directly, if that's too low the tube won't lase because the tube voltage won't be enough.

Don't attempt the LO setting in Europe, though, that's designed for 120V/60Hz and will only give a lot of fireworks.

[Elektrotechniker]

Steve: What's the power drain on these total? What should be the proper tube voltage/current for it to lase? Setting it to HI *may* bypass some kind of internal step-up and use the line voltage directly, if that's too low the tube won't lase because the tube voltage won't be enough.

Don't attempt the LO setting in Europe, though, that's designed for 120V/60Hz and will only give a lot of firework.

Voltage here is not stable within the day. A friend of mine finds that voltage in the mains can be up to 240 V in the morning, while in the evening it may drop even at 210 V. This friend of mine is an electrician and says that it should not matter which setting, LO or HI you choose. But it may be different with gas lasers, I dunno

I thought the LO was for 200-220 V. That's at least what the sticker on my psu shows.

I really need to know if this voltage problem could cause the laser not to lase? Just to let you know, the plasma light can be easily seen if I turn the pot. Isn't it obvious that the laser is getting enough current?

[MarioMaster]

These power supplies are switchmode, it will have no problems obtaining the discharge current from varying mains voltages.

All the HI/LO switch does is change the voltage tap on the filament transformer for optimal cathode temperature. His line voltage also will sag under load so it would probably be better to run it on LO since it would be better to have the cathode a bit too warm rather than too cold to avoid sagging the cathode.

[LesioQ]

Hi,

A picture of Your setup would be welcome.
Does Your PS have two separate switches for voltage selection ? (HI/LO, 115/230)
Do both red and green LED lite upon power-up and interlock close ? (the keylock)
Do plasma discharge ignite after ca 40 second delay from power-up ?
Does voltage on pin 8 (current monitor) follow the pot from 4 to 10Amps ?
Is it a rectangular or round laser head ? (fan atop or via air duct)
How many starter ticks does the plasma start require ?

Piotr.K

[Elektrotechniker]

Hi,

A picture of Your setup would be welcome.
Does Your PS have two separate switches for voltage selection ? (HI/LO, 115/230)
Do both red and green LED lite upon power-up and interlock close ? (the keylock)
Do plasma discharge ignite after ca 40 second delay from power-up ?
Does voltage on pin 8 (current monitor) follow the pot from 4 to 10Amps ?
Is it a rectangular or round laser head ? (fan atop or via air duct)
How many starter ticks does the plasma start require ?

Piotr.K

It has only one switch for LO and HI mode ( 200-220 V/230-240V )
Both used to lite but now the green one( interlock ) does not I shorted the 2 wires after i removed them from the red cylinder inside the psu. For some reason the green one does not lite as I said, though i didnt make any changes. The fuse on the panel breaker now drops even at LO setting.
The plasma turns on after 10-15 seconds and stays as-is without the laser to lase
I was told that current monitor can be achieved with pins 9 and 22? I got a reading of max 10 amps.
It's a cylindrical laser head with separate psu.
The plasma tube starts with the first tick!

An electrician is visiting us tomorrow. I will ask him what can I do to avoid the fuse problem!

[LesioQ]

That's sounds strange.

If only HI/LO is present on the outside, then most likely 115/230 will be soldered in one of PCB, close to PS output sides. I'd suggest having a look at it - if it's on higher voltage setting.

If no interlock is lit - the laser should not start. To satisfy the interlock You need keylock, DB-25 jumper, thermal fuse shorted inside laser head. Only if these all all closed - the laser will (should) proceed to ignite (start to tick).

I asked if You can regulate laser current from 4A (idle) to full on (10.5A) because when MOSFET is PS fails - the PS feeds full line rectified current to laser head. Then the current is limited by Your mains wiring (hot extension cord

The laser current monitor is pin8 & pin 11=GND, 0.1V/A, so it should vary from 400mV to 1V upon pot turn. If You cannot get this on pin 8, check on pin 9, but this should be power monitor.

Cyllindrical head ... You have the big fan with air duct installed and running ?

Piotr.K

Errata: You're right - pin 9 is for current, ref to pin 11=GND
Keylock is not a part of interlock chain, green will litght even when key is OFF.

[Elektrotechniker]

EDIT: I forgot that the green led interlock only lights when the laser is connected. I was just trying the psu without the laser. thats why it didnt lit.

I also found out that there is a separate circuit( i hope it is separate, but it should be ) for the kitchen. The breaker panel has a breaker with ratings of 20A and 380 V. the electrician will help me install a socket on that end, without problem of a breaker tripping.

[Stoney3K]

EDIT: I forgot that the green led interlock only lights when the laser is connected. I was just trying the psu without the laser. thats why it didnt lit.

I also found out that there is a separate circuit( i hope it is separate, but it should be ) for the kitchen. The breaker panel has a breaker with ratings of 20A and 380 V. the electrician will help me install a socket on that end, without problem of a breaker tripping.

Keep in mind that 380V is a THREE phase hookup. For 230V you will need a single phase to neutral connection.

In most European installations, 3-phase enters the house at the breaker panel and is split into 3 (or more) separate circuits feeding from one phase each.

[Elektrotechniker]

Keep in mind that 380V is a THREE phase hookup. For 230V you will need a single phase to neutral connection.

In most European installations, 3-phase enters the house at the breaker panel and is split into 3 (or more) separate circuits feeding from one phase each.

I guess that means I can't use that circuit?