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Thread: Need help finishing up my projector

  1. #91
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    If the baseplate is tapped, and you go down from the top, you need to have the bracket so the bolt slips through, not going through a threaded part. otherwise you'll never be able to pinch the bracket up tight to the baseplate.

  2. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by borgqueenx View Post
    And yes the power increase was nessacary...no idea how much mw it is now, i do not own a lpm.
    But if its white its good right?
    Do you have a digital multimeter, it is used to measure voltage in parallel and amperes in serial so you could check that it does not exceed the power limit of 1.2 A on the flexmod, you will burn the diode easily.
    It came pretuned to almost 800 mW so i am still confused why you had to turn it up, and wonder how you did this, to get it to balance with your much less powerfull green and red.

    Michel

  3. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by michelrietveld View Post
    Do you have a digital multimeter, it is used to measure voltage in parallel and amperes in serial so you could check that it does not exceed the power limit of 1.2 A on the flexmod, you will burn the diode easily.
    It came pretuned to almost 800 mW so i am still confused why you had to turn it up, and wonder how you did this, to get it to balance with your much less powerfull green and red.

    Michel
    mmmh, it didnt burn black wood, didnt feel heat on my finger at aparture and has a nice white color now with other lasers combined, and i already had it running a show of over 5 minutes.
    and i also dont have any knowledge about a multimeter lolz
    Would it be save now or would it be wise to still try measuring?

    i also just installed the new dmx stuff(mic, leds, sensitivity knob, dmx ect) it came with the itrust board so why not install it?
    only part left is drilling the outside of the case, so it has the big hole for the controller plate, and a smaller hole for the laser aparture.
    Also need to purchase some laser warning stickers do you guys know a good cheap place?

    Thanks

    @norty: i need a translator...what do you mean with "threaded"
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  4. #94
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    I think that a multimeter is definately something you'll have to invest in. If you ever encounter a problem, you can take measurements and try to find which parts don't get their proper voltages etc.

  5. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by michelrietveld View Post
    It came pretuned to almost 800 mW so i am still confused why you had to turn it up, and wonder how you did this, to get it to balance with your much less powerfull green and red.

    Michel
    @Michel, don't forget that SrS connected the blue module onto the driver that was in the older projector @the minilem. That driver was powering the older 405 diode, so i can understand a little tweak was necessary. Don't know how much power is running through the diode now, but if it makes a nice white it'll probably be ok.

    @Borgqueen:
    Looking forward seeing this in the new flightcase. Just saw a hole around a cm smaller than the backplate in your flightcase and screw the backplate on, easiest and looks the best.
    Slowly your getting there dude !
    I didn't fail !
    I just found out 10,000 ways that didn't work.

  6. #96
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    The spiral bit on a bolt and on the inside of a hole is called the 'thread'. If you 'tap' a hole or rod you put a 'thread' on it.

    When connecting 2 things together with a bolt, only the lower thing should usually have a thread on it. If both parts are threaded then if you start with a small gap between them, you'll finish with a small gap, as the middle part can't slide down the bolt so it sits flat on the baseplate.

  7. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by hobbybob View Post
    @Michel, don't forget that SrS connected the blue module onto the driver that was in the older projector @the minilem. That driver was powering the older 405 diode, so i can understand a little tweak was necessary. Don't know how much power is running through the diode now, but if it makes a nice white it'll probably be ok.

    @Borgqueen:
    Looking forward seeing this in the new flightcase. Just saw a hole around a cm smaller than the backplate in your flightcase and screw the backplate on, easiest and looks the best.
    Slowly your getting there dude !
    Yep already figured that out, made the exact dimensions for the hole.
    Unfortunatly i dont have a hole saw and nobody i know has one

    And can a dutch guy please translate norty's reply?

    I also got the fan working again, and found two leds for the backplate...
    Only things to do:
    Fix the blue reflecting l bracket dichro problem.
    Mount the baseplate to the wooden flightcase bottom with 6 screws.
    Make 4 holes: one in front for beam aparture, one in the back for control panel, two on the control panel to fit ilda male and ilda female.
    Screw ilda to the control panel.
    Screw the control panel to the flightcase.

    Then im done!
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  8. #98
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    For mounting it in the flight case:
    take a nail (Spijker) and put the nail through the six holes and punch a small hole in the bottom. Then take 6 bolt and 12 washers (ringen) and put a ring around the bolt, then put it through the bottom, place another ring, then a nut (=moer) (or 2 to make it higher) and place your baseplate on that, this way the plate is lifted from the bottom, is very stable (due to the rings holding the bolts in place) and the nuts lifting it a bit.

    Then for the rear plate, why not remove the connector your chinese friends have mounted there and re-use that perfectly cut hole for the DB25 connector ?
    I didn't fail !
    I just found out 10,000 ways that didn't work.

  9. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by hobbybob View Post
    For mounting it in the flight case:
    take a nail (Spijker) and put the nail through the six holes and punch a small hole in the bottom. Then take 6 bolt and 12 washers (ringen) and put a ring around the bolt, then put it through the bottom, place another ring, then a nut (=moer) (or 2 to make it higher) and place your baseplate on that, this way the plate is lifted from the bottom, is very stable (due to the rings holding the bolts in place) and the nuts lifting it a bit.

    Then for the rear plate, why not remove the connector your chinese friends have mounted there and re-use that perfectly cut hole for the DB25 connector ?
    Doesnt fit. Its another ilda cable...it has its own holes for mounting.
    Thanks for ypthe tip to mount it in the flightcase. But first i need to fix a holesaw^^
    You are unique! Just like everyone else...
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  10. #100
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    where is the saw you brought to the Minilem ?
    That jigsaw will take care of that flightcase easy !
    I didn't fail !
    I just found out 10,000 ways that didn't work.

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