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Thread: Need help finishing up my projector

  1. #11
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    Default pt-itrust

    for the pt-itrust board to get power you need to attach the power cable to one of the power (+/- 15 v) connectors on one of the drivers.

    main psu gives power to the drivers
    one of the drivers powers the pt-itrust

    Michel

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by borgqueenx View Post
    mmh, what about a sort of tutorial? surely someone must have placed a video or photos showing the cables connected to the galvo PSU and to the....whatever it goes to.
    if its a good tutorial it should be simple enough. hobbybob tried to explain, but i cant remember he saying how and/or where the other end of the cables should go to.

    Thanks!

    If you face the back side of the power supply and see the screws, you have three next to each other,
    From left to right you see L and N with (AC), AC stands for Alternating Current which is the 220 from the socket in the wall.
    first two are for 230 and third is for grounding, it has the grounding label, the stripes above each other with the circle around it.

    In Dutch to make sure you aren't lost in translation :
    3 schroefjes naast elkaar 1,2 is voor de pootjes van het stopcontact, 3 is voor de randaarde.


    The driver galvo's are already wired and you can power the galvo drivers with it.
    Next thing is to use the other wire you got with your kit to connect one of the drivers +/-15V to the pt-itrust board.

    Michel

  3. #13
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    Ho BorgqueenX,

    You forgot all notes to finish the projector i wrote you.
    Like Norty said, L and N are Live and Neutral (230V!) and the mark is the Earth sign, where you should mount the green and yellow wire from the 230V.

    Also as i pointed out before you left you need a 3-wire cable from one of the galvodrivers (where it says -15 0 +15V) to the power input connector on the PT itrust.

    But as you are still a little inexperienced i suggest you ask your dad to help you connect up the 220V cable, or some else. Since it's dangerous if you don't know what your doing.

    Have you already soldered the wires for the green ?

    I understand that the shops don't want to help out, they cannot sell you anything and don't know what they get themselves into.

    Luckily you did learn a lot from it and hopefully you will be building your own projector in the future, but first focus on this one, take it slow and don't rush it, or try to fiddle with it your self too much, since it's sensitive equipment....
    Was nice to have you at the LEM. See you next time ?
    I didn't fail !
    I just found out 10,000 ways that didn't work.

  4. #14
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    so michielrietveld, the pt-itrust is powered by a galvo or laser driver? where to connect it to?

    and hobbybob you now said where to mount the cables on the galvo PSU? but not where the other end must go to?

    I will use your answers for a technician in our family maybe he can help me out.

    and yes hobbybob i fixed the green laser!
    and yes, definatly a next time

    and another side question....ive been trying to align the blue...the point is trying to get blue red and green both in one dot yes?
    I already managed to get yellow by aligning red and green.

    But blue is harder.
    Here is the image on a paper:
    http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/2540/img4231w.jpg
    And here are the dichro's....from the image:
    http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/1303/img4232e.jpg
    how should i try this?
    there is not much room for the dichro's over there.

    Thanks.
    You are unique! Just like everyone else...
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  5. #15
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    there must be an approrpriate socket on one of the galvo drivers to attach the cable and power the pt itrust board. i think that the x galvo driver has this socket. check out the red lines on the pic i attach



    concerning alignment, there are two sorts, near field and far field. you need to get both correctly to have sucess

    generally, you achieve near field alignment (near means before they hit the galvos) by moving the laser modules (red green and blue) just a bit around their place. You have to catter for left-right and pan-tilt movements. You achieve far field alignment after getting near field right by adjusting the dichros by means of their mounts

    it is best to adjust far field with a scanned image and not a single dot

    check out this guide by this nice man http://www.stanwax.plus.com/lw/rgb%20alignment%20lw.pdf
    "its called character briggs..."

  6. #16
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    You know about near and far field alignment?

    You need to match the dots on the dichro first before you can proceed... which might be rather hard on a fixed setup.

    Edit: oh, LaNeK beat me to it.

  7. #17
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    No no no no, before you blow something up, or electrocute yourself, read my post.
    And after that read it again. Since you didn't read it correctly.

    What i wrote was:
    Also as i pointed out before you left you need to connect a 3-wire cable from one of the galvodrivers (where it says -15 0 +15V) to the power input connector on the PT itrust.

    See ? From means van en to means naar in Dutch.
    So one end of the cable goes onto the galvo driver (those are the 2 pcb's with the black cooling fins). Take the X- galvo driver (easiest and closest to PT ITrust board) (In Dutch: je kiest dus de X, dus 1 van de 2.... niet allebei, er zit een klein 3 pins connector op waarbij iets van -15 0 +15V staat. Daar druk je de ene plug op, dan op het pt itrust board zit een power input plug, ook 3 pins, daar gaat de andere kant op, snappie ?)

    The other end goes to the power input on the PT ITRust board....
    So there must be one cable left in your case which we didn't use.

    It is a wire with a 3 pin connector on both ends of the cable.


    Then after that, you need to connect 230V onto the powersupply (biggest block on the plate), as i explained before, the 230V wires need to go to the wires that go to the transformer.
    (IN dutch: van de 220v aansluiting aan de achterkant komen draadjes die via een schakelaar in de backplate naar een soort blokje in geel plastic lopen, daaruit komen 2 draden, daar moeten de draden in die naar de powersupply moeten. Aardedraad moet eigenlijk voor het nette naar de powerstekker aansluiting. De middelste pin was daar nog niet gebruikt).
    Maar als je ook maar even het idee hebt dat je het niet snapt, zoek dan even iemand die het wel snapt. Je hebt er niets aan als je de boel sloopt.
    Veel duidelijker dan de aanwijzingen van Michel en mij wordt het niet. Sorry.
    Als dat niet lukt, wacht dan tot een volgende LEM.

    Back in English:

    For the other guys helping along, we aligned the green module to be perfectly aligned onto the galvos.
    We also place the dichros loose in front of the other modules and mounted those red and blue modules for Borgqueen.
    Red and green we already had aligned into a nice yellow.

    Since we had only limited amount of time and his brother was waiting outside in the car i made some notes (ok, he forgot) and pointed out he needed to connect the 15V cable from the galvo driver to the Pt itrust.
    Now he needs to drill 2 more holes to mount the galvo's after having determined the position.
    Then place the whole lot in the new case which will arrive tomorrow.

    We wanted to have at least the drilling and mounting done, since he is still learning.

    And yes CMB, aligning is easier with a circle or square pattern, but he has no DAC yet.
    I text (SMS in Dutch) him how he first should do the nearfield and then move onto the farfield.
    Last edited by hobbybob; 01-31-2011 at 11:26.
    I didn't fail !
    I just found out 10,000 ways that didn't work.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by hobbybob View Post
    No no no no, before you blow something up, or electrocute yourself, read my post.
    And after that read it again. Since you didn't read it correctly.

    What i wrote was:
    Also as i pointed out before you left you need to connect a 3-wire cable from one of the galvodrivers (where it says -15 0 +15V) to the power input connector on the PT itrust.

    See ? From means van en to means naar in Dutch.
    So one end of the cable goes onto the galvo driver (those are the 2 pcb's with the black cooling fins). Take the X- galvo driver (easiest and closest to PT ITrust board) (In Dutch: je kiest dus de X, dus 1 van de 2.... niet allebei, er zit een klein 3 pins connector op waarbij iets van -15 0 +15V staat. Daar druk je de ene plug op, dan op het pt itrust board zit een power input plug, ook 3 pins, daar gaat de andere kant op, snappie ?)

    The other end goes to the power input on the PT ITRust board....
    So there must be one cable left in your case which we didn't use.

    It is a wire with a 3 pin connector on both ends of the cable.


    Then after that, you need to connect 230V onto the powersupply (biggest block on the plate), as i explained before, the 230V wires need to go to the wires that go to the transformer.
    (IN dutch: van de 220v aansluiting aan de achterkant komen draadjes die via een schakelaar in de backplate naar een soort blokje in geel plastic lopen, daaruit komen 2 draden, daar moeten de draden in die naar de powersupply moeten. Aardedraad moet eigenlijk voor het nette naar de powerstekker aansluiting. De middelste pin was daar nog niet gebruikt).
    Maar als je ook maar even het idee hebt dat je het niet snapt, zoek dan even iemand die het wel snapt. Je hebt er niets aan als je de boel sloopt.
    Veel duidelijker dan de aanwijzingen van Michel en mij wordt het niet. Sorry.
    Als dat niet lukt, wacht dan tot een volgende LEM.

    Back in English:

    For the other guys helping along, we aligned the green module to be perfectly aligned onto the galvos.
    We also place the dichros loose in front of the other modules and mounted those red and blue modules for Borgqueen.
    Red and green we already had aligned into a nice yellow.

    Since we had only limited amount of time and his brother was waiting outside in the car i made some notes (ok, he forgot) and pointed out he needed to connect the 15V cable from the galvo driver to the Pt itrust.
    Now he needs to drill 2 more holes to mount the galvo's after having determined the position.
    Then place the whole lot in the new case which will arrive tomorrow.

    We wanted to have at least the drilling and mounting done, since he is still learning.

    And yes CMB, aligning is easier with a circle or square pattern, but he has no DAC yet.
    I text (SMS in Dutch) him how he first should do the nearfield and then move onto the farfield.
    do not worry, like i said i will use these answers to let a familiy member read them, so he can power my projector.
    there are 2 plastic parts(or maby its copper to). (but i think you mean photo1)
    This one(photo1):
    http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/491/img4233sm.jpg (the yellow plastic not the black circles)
    and this one:
    http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/3633/img4224an.jpg (the black circles)

    if you mean the cables from this photo, looking at the black circles this time(yes its not completly yellow, on photo there is very little yellow...but i want to make it very clear for myself):
    http://img827.imageshack.us/i/img4233sm.jpg/
    these needs to be connected to the new galvo PSU?(biggest block with lots of holes)(ofcource these cables needs to be extended but that can be achieved with soldering iron?)
    does it matter if one cable is connected to L and the other is N? or can they be switched for no consequence of boom or death?

    Just trying to get some clearness since i dont want to ruinin the projector if the technician comes to help me.

    and i connected the PT-itrust board to power ^^
    thanks.

    EDIT: and so to see aligning the dichro's is step final.
    first i need answers and the technican fellow to come ^^
    You are unique! Just like everyone else...
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  9. #19
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    If those 2 blue short cut off wires go into the same block as the red cables then yes.
    But if you tell the technician friend the galvo PSU (indeed the big block with lots of holes in it....) needs 220V he will understand he will have to wire L and N to the same block as the red wires go in. Best thing is to make 2 new wires and not keep connecting them to the blue wires (although this is possible using a "kroonsteentje").

    And i think we decided on turning the dichros with the knobs inside the projector, didn't we ?
    It seems like you really have a very shortterm memory :-)

    Just a piece of well meant advice, next time write stuff down ! Not in your iphone 4, but on a piece of paper.
    Today was my day off, so i was happy to help you out, other days might not be so easy since i do have to work.
    Writing stuff down when stuff gets explained is easy for looking stuff up when your lost or want to look up how its done.
    Ofcourse there is always the forum, but it's so so hard for someone to explain who wasn't there what you must do to not get you killed, blind, or have the projector blow up.

    The best part of this adventure is that you learn a lot from this experience.
    Asking questions is the best way to gain more knowledge. The dummest question is one not asked.
    And your projector is getting better and better.
    Looking forward seeing your shows ;-)
    Last edited by hobbybob; 01-31-2011 at 12:47.
    I didn't fail !
    I just found out 10,000 ways that didn't work.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by hobbybob View Post
    If those 2 blue short cut off wires go into the same block as the red cables then yes.
    But if you tell the technician friend the galvo PSU (indeed the big block with lots of holes in it....) needs 220V he will understand he will have to wire L and N to the same block as the red wires go in. Best thing is to make 2 new wires and not keep connecting them to the blue wires (although this is possible using a "kroonsteentje").

    And i think we decided on turning the dichros with the knobs inside the projector, didn't we ?
    It seems like you really have a very shortterm memory :-)

    Just a piece of well meant advice, next time write stuff down ! Not in your iphone 4, but on a piece of paper.
    Today was my day off, so i was happy to help you out, other days might not be so easy since i do have to work.
    Writing stuff down when stuff gets explained is easy for looking stuff up when your lost or want to look up how its done.
    Ofcourse there is always the forum, but it's so so hard for someone to explain who wasn't there what you must do to not get you killed, blind, or have the projector blow up.

    The best part of this adventure is that you learn a lot from this experience.
    Asking questions is the best way to gain more knowledge. The dummest question is one not asked.
    And your projector is getting better and better.
    Looking forward seeing your shows ;-)
    so i will ask to put a "kroonsteentje" on the blue wires and with that extend the cables to reach the galvo PSU?
    please notice on that photo that the two blue wires, split into 4 wires - 2 blue 2 red.
    http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/1027/img4235x.jpg
    i removed the yellow plastic...wich was actually ducktape.

    about aligning: i tried messing around with it. but it seems that cant be possible. there will be loss of green or red. because one of the beams touch the galvo mount, close to the dichro glass. when facing the knobs to outside the projector i didnt have these problems. mccarrot also drilled in the mounts it seems...it seems he also encountered this problem im having now. the green and red cant be aligned when green and red goes together, unless i drill off a piece more of the mount, maybe i'l do that...but maybe rather have the dichro mount knobs turned the other way, i figured.
    sorry if i sound vague...
    here is a dutch version:
    als de groene laser door de dichro gaat met de dichro mount knopjes naar de binnenkant van de projector toe, kan hij wel bij de galvo speigels komen. maar als ik rood erbij toevoeg is dat niet meer mogelijk zonder flink verlies van vermogen, doordat een groot gedeelte van de "stip" op de galvo mount zit en niet door de dichro schijnt. het ziet ernaar uit dat de rode en groene stip allebei niet 100% door het glas gaan kunnen....als de knoppen van de mount naar binnen staan gericht. als de knoppen naar buiten staan gericht, is het wel mogelijk...

    and yes i forgot that piece of paper wich you made
    and yes i do have problems with memorizing unfortunatly
    i was in a hurry because my brother was getting pissed because he already waited there since 22:00...and not feeling to well...and needed to work today.

    and hobbybob what about the galvo X and Y mirrors? are they correctly put into the galvo mount or should i switch them?
    Last edited by borgqueenx; 01-31-2011 at 13:37.
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