Need help finishing up my projector

[hobbybob]

OK, good you took of the tape.
Yes, extending those 2 cables to the galvo PSU and putting it on L and N will work !
Another hurdle taken.

The drilling in the mount you are referring to was done to do just that:
Letting the beam pass.
You did see me align the beams right ? When i showed you the bright yellow dot on the wall.
Yellow means a mixture of green and red. When almost no red would enter the mix, you wouldn't get the nice yellow i show you. reversing the dichro's made sure that most light entered the mix.

So aim the red beam through the part were mccarrot drilled the mount onto the dichro.
Then fiddle around so that the red and green touch around the same spot on the dichro and then aim on the first galvo mirror (when you see a yellow dot on the ceiling you are ok).
Then do the same for the blue dichro. when you have a whitesh dot on the ceiling, put in the other galvo and turn until it enters it nicely straight from the plate.
You saw me do the trick right ? Now do the same.

Yesterday it worked, so if you didn't change anything it should work today right ?
No the mirrors don't have to be switched, again you saw me do it yesterday.
You come in on the low mirror, you beam up, to the higher mirror and then out of the projector.
If you didn't change anything and put in the lower galvomirror, the green beam should hit it smack in the middle.
If it isn't something is wrong. The green beam is the "leading" beam. all other colors have to follow the same path onto the mirror.
You do this by fiddling with the dichros starting from the back, working your way up towards the galvo mirrors.

First green, hit the lower mirror in the middle, beam up.
Then red, hit the dichro, combine it with green and hit the mirror in the middle , you now should see a yellow dot on the ceiling above the galvoblock.
Then put in blue, hit a white beam onto the dichro, in the middle you know see a white dot on the ceiling.
Then shove in the other galvo and turn on both dichros (power up the galvo PSU!) , you see them enter the fixed middle position. DO NOT TOUCH THE MIRRORS !
Now first turn the lower galvo so that it's reflecting upwards.
Now turn the upper galvo in the mounting block so that the beam enters straight.
Then do some final adjustment on the lower galvo so that the beam also leaves the plate straight when you look from above.
This will make sure the beam will leave your projector straight so when you put it in the flightcase the beam enters straightforward.

Eventually a beam will exit this projector (or a large fireball), but i think the first ;-)

[borgqueenx]

OK, good you took of the tape.
Yes, extending those 2 cables to the galvo PSU and putting it on L and N will work !
Another hurdle taken.

The drilling in the mount you are referring to was done to do just that:
Letting the beam pass.
You did see me align the beams right ? When i showed you the bright yellow dot on the wall.
Yellow means a mixture of green and red. When almost no red would enter the mix, you wouldn't get the nice yellow i show you. reversing the dichro's made sure that most light entered the mix.

So aim the red beam through the part were mccarrot drilled the mount onto the dichro.
Then fiddle around so that the red and green touch around the same spot on the dichro and then aim on the first galvo mirror (when you see a yellow dot on the ceiling you are ok).
Then do the same for the blue dichro. when you have a whitesh dot on the ceiling, put in the other galvo and turn until it enters it nicely straight from the plate.
You saw me do the trick right ? Now do the same.

Eventually a beam will exit this projector (or a large fireball), but i think the first ;-)

Nice then i will ask the guy to come Over here soon to connect the galvo's to the electricity. Thanks thats hopefully another problem solved

Yes i saw you do the trick, cant remember where the knobs were pointing at.
I tried messing with it for a total of 15 minutes, no luck.
Yes i got red and green aligned so it became yellow(just like you did but even got better yellow...a perfect alignment), but the output power was very low...i got like 3 times more power when i turned the dichro mount facing with the knobs to inside. I think its probaly because you all got nice reds..and my red probaly has a bigger beam? But thats just a guess to think about, im not the expert yet.
I have seen that when drilled more...red and green can both pass perfectly with facing the knobs to outside. But drilling more means the screw(the alu or metal thingy around the dichro mount) becomes shorter as well on the blue dichro mount. The red dichro mount can be drilled in a bit futher without damaging the screw. Shall i do that...or shall i turn the knobs to outside? Or something else to try?

Edit: when i was playing with the dichro mount(facing knobs outside) i got red and green aligned into yellow...i already moved the galvos so the beam leaves the projector plate straight(used smoke to see), but they were not powered on ofcource(waiting on that technical guy). When they are on and on home position i need to move them so they will leave the base plate straight? Or is it good as it is now?

[hobbybob]

i will try once more to explain.
a dichro is a piece of clear glass coated with a special coating.
If you shine green light on one side it will pass.
On the other side is a coating that will let green pass, and REFLECT red.
So it only lets a tiny amount of red through but will REFLECT most.
Like a mirror but then specifically for one color.
Turning the knobs the other way, will make you reflect the red beam into the green module.

That's why you have a low power output when turning it around, almost no red comes through.
So if you want to have the knobs on the outside (as i said it IS easier for adjusting that way) but since we didn't know how big the flight case is and we don't know you can still turn them then, we decided to put the knobs inside. If you want to have them outside , ok no problem but then AT LEAST TURN THE DICHRO AROUND IN THE MOUNT.
Really, trust me, it DOESN"T work if you leave them in the same position and just turn around. You just told us. you got low output.

It has nothing to do with my reds also, my laser hasn't left it's flightcase since we have been working on your projector all day. It was your modules and your modules only we had in the projector. So trust me, please do.

The dichro for blue works the same, it will pass Red and Green and it will reflect BLUE.
But it will only reflect blue and pass the other colors. that's why we placed the modules in this order. Again trust me, we didn't do this because we liked your green module more than the others, the green module needs to go in as first, then red than blue. That's the nature of the set of dichros you bought from McCarrot.

If you don't know anymore which dichro to use for what color (because one only reflects Blue and let green and red pass and the other one let's green pass and reflects red) you can either look at the colors, or put it in front of your modules and watch their behaviour.

Now i am too tired to type anything more. have a good night.

[borgqueenx]

i will try once more to explain.
a dichro is a piece of clear glass coated with a special coating.
If you shine green light on one side it will pass.
On the other side is a coating that will let green pass, and REFLECT red.
So it only lets a tiny amount of red through but will REFLECT most.
Like a mirror but then specifically for one color.
Turning the knobs the other way, will make you reflect the red beam into the green module.

That's why you have a low power output when turning it around, almost no red comes through.
So if you want to have the knobs on the outside (as i said it IS easier for adjusting that way) but since we didn't know how big the flight case is and we don't know you can still turn them then, we decided to put the knobs inside. If you want to have them outside , ok no problem but then AT LEAST TURN THE DICHRO AROUND IN THE MOUNT.
Really, trust me, it DOESN"T work if you leave them in the same position and just turn around. You just told us. you got low output.

It has nothing to do with my reds also, my laser hasn't left it's flightcase since we have been working on your projector all day. It was your modules and your modules only we had in the projector. So trust me, please do.

The dichro for blue works the same, it will pass Red and Green and it will reflect BLUE.
But it will only reflect blue and pass the other colors. that's why we placed the modules in this order. Again trust me, we didn't do this because we liked your green module more than the others, the green module needs to go in as first, then red than blue. That's the nature of the set of dichros you bought from McCarrot.

If you don't know anymore which dichro to use for what color (because one only reflects Blue and let green and red pass and the other one let's green pass and reflects red) you can either look at the colors, or put it in front of your modules and watch their behaviour.

Now i am too tired to type anything more. have a good night.

Hey hey i didnt say anything about not trusting you...
Im writing my believes about a situation, experiences and problems im facing.
Il try to rotate the dichro tommorow then and see what happens.
And when im home from work tommorow il try to make a video.

Thanks, and sleep well

[hobbybob]

Hey hey i didnt say anything about not trusting you...
Il try to rotate the dichro tommorow then and see what happens.
And when im home from work tommorow il try to make a video.

Thanks

you do that. Just play with the dichro and positions, you cannot do much harm figuring out the positions. Just make sure you know which dichro is for which color and start from there.
first make sure green still shines on the galvomirror when you leave out all the dichro's.
So just green -> galvo mirror. is it still in the middle of the mirror ?

Good luck.

[mccarrot]

De bruine dropveter op de L en de blauwe dropveter op de N

LOL

[colouredmirrorball]

Does that matter much? I bothered about the difference between N and L a long time, but a quick Google search turned up that there is actually none, except that the L is fused sometimes.
Or is there another difference?

[Badpip]

Does that matter much? I bothered about the difference between N and L a long time, but a quick Google search turned up that there is actually none, except that the L is fused sometimes.
Or is there another difference?

They are certainly not the same!

N is Neutral = 0V
L is switching between +230V and -230V 100 times a second. (50Hz)

Or in other words:

L will give you a nasty electical shock if touched alone.

N will not.

(DON'T test this!)

/Thomas

[colouredmirrorball]

That sounds like a more plausible explanation. I'll go with it but I heard it could also differ between countries and the like.

Damn, why haven't I ever had proper electricity lessons?

[Doc]

Does that matter much? I bothered about the difference between N and L a long time, but a quick Google search turned up that there is actually none, except that the L is fused sometimes.
Or is there another difference?

When they leave the transformer there is no difference, however the N line is tied to ground at the substation, or if you live out of town; the pole transformer.

Therefore the N line shouldn't really have any more than a slight AC ripple.