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Thread: Need help finishing up my projector

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doc View Post
    When they leave the transformer there is no difference, however the N line is tied to ground at the substation, or if you live out of town; the pole transformer.

    Therefore the N line shouldn't really have any more than a slight AC ripple.
    Technically no, but yes.

    Here in Australia we use the MEN system (Mains Earth Neutral) which as you stated, bonds the mains neutral to ground at the switch board.

    Most single phase equipment does not care about A/N polarity, but to be truly within the standards and safety regulations the wiring/colour must be correct.
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  2. #32
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    So the ground slot, wich comes after l and n, doesnt need a cable attached?
    And wich of the blue cables connected to l and n doesnt matter? I could cut the power and switch the 2 blue cables(l goes to n and l to n?)

    Sounds dead simple not literary ofcource:P
    The technical comes tonight but only has 20 minutes of time.
    But if its right then thats more then enough?
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  3. #33
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    I think it is for in the projector only since the plug that goes into the power outlet in the wall can be plugged in in two different ways so mixing up the L and N every time you plug it in differently, it is for countries that have sockets that can only be plugged in in one way, for the netherlands we have connectors that you can turn 180 degrees so the two pins for L and N can fit in N and L as well not making a difference. Only the grounding, third connection is made to a different line.
    Michel

  4. #34
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    Hi Borgqueen, on my break now a bit late but ok.

    Let the technical dude make a shock block (=kroonsteentje) to the 2 blue wires (the 2 blues that are connected to red wires that supply your transformer with 230V) to the L and N terminals (schroefaansluiting) on the Galvo PSU. Then one of the wires goes to L and the other to N.
    Doesn't matter which way round. But if you want to do it nice follow Maurices directions.

    If you really want to do it nice you make the ground wire towards the input plug on the metal backpanel. This way if a wire breaks and touches the metal part the fuse blows and your metal casing doesn't get connected to 230V and kill someone that touches it.

    But as you saw, your chinese friends that sold you the projector don't care for anyones lives as it was not connected. Since you want to do it properly i suggest you connect it. But if the "electric man" has only 20 minutes time, you don't have a green/yellow cable, ok then connect to 2 blue wires to the L and N on the powersupply for the galvos. This will work.

    Then you are ready for aligning the lasers.
    Remember that when your electric friend has connected the wires, each time you turn on the switch also the galvo's are connected, when that happens and NO input is offered to the ILDA connector, the galvomirrors will move to their center position.
    This is easy for adjusting but be careful, to not break them off ! SO make sure they are in the base block and properly fitted (turn the hex screw!)
    Be careful when playing with the dichros when there are not firmly screwed in the baseplate, if they fell over and hit your galvomirrors it's bye bye cry cry....

    So make sure you fit the dichromounts soon. Just mount them when they are at an angle of 45 degrees and where the green beam and the red, and the green beam and the blue beam cross. You can later worry about the dichros orientation.
    If you want to have it easily adjustable then make the mountknobs to the outside, else to the inside. You don't have to drill in the dichro mounts to make it work !

    Goodluck, let us know if the electric friend connected the wires, then we can take the next hurdles:

    determining dichro positioning,
    drilling holes for dichro
    tapping holes for dichro
    mounting dichros.
    adjusting nearfield,
    adjusting farfield,
    building it in the flightcase
    mounting a window of some kind (antireflective glass)
    Buying you a DAC
    Installing software
    finetuning projector.

    Hope this helps.
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  5. #35
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    Thanks hobbybob and michel!
    I also need to know how to screw the dichro mounts tight to the baseplate.
    Mccarrot made one metal thing around the mounts a bit taller then the other dichro mount.
    And they dont have holes for putting a screw in.

    But these are steps ahead, first i want the galvo's powered.
    Savety of the ground cable would be nice if there is time, but safety is something to do on the end.(just like the red big button of yours i want to buy)
    Im not touching anything but the dichro mounts and the baseplate whens its turned on.
    But i understand the psu can power the whole baseplate putting it on 230...so when im going to align the dichro's i need to check if the galvo psu cables doesnt touch something else then the galvo psu itself?

    Thanks!
    Cant wait until tonight!
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  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by borgqueenx View Post
    Thanks hobbybob and michel!

    Savety of the ground cable would be nice if there is time, but safety is something to do on the end.(just like the red big button of yours i want to buy)
    Im not touching anything but the dichro mounts and the baseplate whens its turned on.
    But i understand the psu can power the whole baseplate putting it on 230...so when im going to align the dichro's i need to check if the galvo psu cables doesnt touch something else then the galvo psu itself?

    Thanks!
    Cant wait until tonight!
    sorry but are you thinking the 230 volt is on the baseplate????
    i hope not. maybe we asume you know more about electronics then we think.

    220 Volt from the connector in the wall, you plug in the socket with the cable, it has three wires, 2 for 220 and 1 for protection.

    these are wired to the psu (power supply unit), there are three screws named L, N and the lines with the circle which is used for the protection.

    Inside the psu the 220 Volt, alternating current, is transformed into DC, Direct Current (gelijkspanning) of -24 and +24 V with a 0-volt mass. This is the power for the galvo drivers. So touching the DC is no problem, it is the 220V AC you need to be carefull off.
    If all works fine the only 220V you can touch is on the screws L and N so keep your hands off those screws when connected to the mains.

    for the rest you should be safe unless you have electronics that make unintentionally contact with the base plate. Avoid this.

    Hope this makes it even more clear.

    Michel

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by michelrietveld View Post
    sorry but are you thinking the 230 volt is on the baseplate????
    i hope not. maybe we asume you know more about electronics then we think.

    220 Volt from the connector in the wall, you plug in the socket with the cable, it has three wires, 2 for 220 and 1 for protection.

    these are wired to the psu (power supply unit), there are three screws named L, N and the lines with the circle which is used for the protection.

    Inside the psu the 220 Volt, alternating current, is transformed into DC, Direct Current (gelijkspanning) of -24 and +24 V with a 0-volt mass. This is the power for the galvo drivers. So touching the DC is no problem, it is the 220V AC you need to be carefull off.
    If all works fine the only 220V you can touch is on the screws L and N so keep your hands off those screws when connected to the mains.

    for the rest you should be safe unless you have electronics that make unintentionally contact with the base plate. Avoid this.

    Hope this makes it even more clear.

    Michel
    Yes thats what ive ment(by the explanation of hobbybob). The baseplate being powered if a galvo psu cables falls off and touches the baseplate. Killing everything it touches. (mmh maby a easy fly trap if included a honey smell?)
    Thanks for the extra info, cant wait to see the galvo mirrors click into home position tonight, to confirm they are working
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  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by dnar View Post
    Technically no, but yes.

    Here in Australia we use the MEN system (Mains Earth Neutral) which as you stated, bonds the mains neutral to ground at the switch board.

    Most single phase equipment does not care about A/N polarity, but to be truly within the standards and safety regulations the wiring/colour must be correct.

    Here in the UK BS 7161 IEE regs stipulate that the neutral is tied to ground at the transformer (sub station). The seperate earth connection is spliced off at street entry point.

    Ungrounded switch mode PSUs worry me without a dedicated ground connection, I've had more than a few shocks from laptop supplies that use the 2 pin figure of eight plug and regulary measured 120v+ float on their outputs.
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  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by borgqueenx View Post
    Yes thats what ive ment(by the explanation of hobbybob). The baseplate being powered if a galvo psu cables falls off and touches the baseplate. Killing everything it touches. (mmh maby a easy fly trap if included a honey smell?)
    Thanks for the extra info, cant wait to see the galvo mirrors click into home position tonight, to confirm they are working

    why would a cable fall off ?????
    and if so, then it is a cable that has no contacts outside.

    the only cable that can do some harm is the 220 power input from the psu and you put this correct in place (or let someone do it for you).

    i get confused more and more but have deep respect that you learn so much in so little time

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by michelrietveld View Post
    why would a cable fall off ?????
    and if so, then it is a cable that has no contacts outside.

    the only cable that can do some harm is the 220 power input from the psu and you put this correct in place (or let someone do it for you).

    i get confused more and more but have deep respect that you learn so much in so little time
    or maybe i misunderstood hobbybob lolz...
    oh well il just ask the technical guy who comes tonight.

    cant wait and will ofcource update!
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