Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 13

Thread: Ghettofabulous Mark 6 aka DIY Series (big pics)

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    7,067

    Lightbulb Ghettofabulous Mark 6 aka DIY Series (big pics)

    I have been working on my DIY rig for a bit now to get it to a point where it is certifiable so I can get a varience. I am one component install away, the push button for the second action of the two action interlock start, and I wanted to take a look back at all the ghetto builds. I am sure some who have seen my "first" builds will say my numbering is off as the first Ghettofabulous was seen at FLEM 1 as 3 lasers screwed to a piece of wood with a set of scanners and a popelscan DAC. While technically correct, I like to think of that build as Ghettofabulous mark 0... Isay the PC case build is mark 0.5. (see history )

    I didn't see many good pics from when I first got the case but here is one of the beam table...


    Here is Mark 2 after getting my first analog blue:



    Mark 3 with the first implimentation of the 635/660 dichro:



    Mark 4, first 4 channel RGBV with a 405nm diode:


    Mark 5 after I got the DIY itch back with the 445s...


    And now Mark 6, with a Watt of power and is 95% certifiable, shutter, safety interlock including redundant case intrusion sensors and keylock, while looking semiprofessionally wired; warning stickers are on it and the paperwork is done and waiting to be reviewed by a professional before I fax, mail, and eSubmit it to the Feds. My camer is still in the shop so I took these from the board's most famous HandyCam:



    The wiring is along the top and in the back with the interlock wiring separated; the case "sensor" buttons have wires ran outside of the top breadboard.


    I use two LEDs on the rear panel to indicate power is on but interlock off/open, no power to lasers, and when power is on and the interlock is on/closed, laser have power.






    The interlock plug is a 1/4 inch headphone jack and I use a shirted headphone plug to close the circuit.


    I have alligator clips that I can defeat the case intrusion "sensors" with:


    Redundant per 21cfr1040.10... I still need a defated indicator, or not show it can be defeated in my documentation... I think.






    The Keylock controls the shutter signal; no key, no shutter move...
    I

    I didn't move the scanner cables that much as they fell nicely on their own...




    I need real stickers... these are "lables".


    Got beam mask for collateral radiation...


    Only problem it has is beam quality... The green is a monster, the red is beautiful, and the blue is a thin line when I shoot them off this parobolic mirror I have; I believe it is a zit poppin mirror but it makes good beam effects and is good for that long throw alignment.


    Hows this for beam data... green is about 7 or 8 inches in diameter. I do think this is a simulated 150 to 200 feet though.


    This has been a history of my Ghettofabulous builds.

    Enjoy!
    Love, peace, and grease,

    allthat... aka: aaron@pangolin

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    7,067

    Lightbulb

    I got my camera back and completed the manual reset putton to be fuly CDRH compliant so I figured I would post a few more pics. I also redid the lables to use vinyl instead of paper.
























  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Mexico
    Posts
    475

    Thumbs up

    Congrats.

    Almost ready to hit the road.

    Cheers,
    Ed
    BTW How about beam pics.?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    7,067

    Lightbulb

    Quote Originally Posted by megaton View Post
    Congrats.

    Almost ready to hit the road.

    Cheers,
    Ed
    BTW How about beam pics.?
    Thanks Ed! Yep, almost 4 years to the day that I stated I wanted to get my "projector" leagal to try and make some cash back... http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...1484#post21484

    Beam shots are kinda rough; I got a couple of slightly burnt pixels on the boss' camera and am not allowed to take beamshots anymore. Luckily I bought the extended warranty and Best Buy fixed it. I'll see if I can get some side shots in a safe area but make no promises.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Charleston, SC
    Posts
    2,147,489,370

    Thumbs up

    Looking good, Aaron! Glad to see you've got the "Commanded Start" circuit working as it should. Very nice indeed.

    Now all you need is your paperwork to be approved, and you're all set!

    Adam

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Connecticut, USA
    Posts
    2,478

    Default

    Congrats Aaron!

    GREAT job! you have come quite a long way my friend. i actually may want to use your command switch if you dont mind. got a schematic? and are your case swaitches wired to the shutter or to kill all power? do u have a sw on each panel (4)?

    -Marc
    http://www.laserist.org/images/ildalogos/ILDA-logo_colored-beams_Corporate_150w.jpg

    ILDA- U.S. Laser Regulatory Committee

    Authorized Dealer for:

    • Pangolin Laser Software and Hardware
    • KVANT Laser Modules & Laser Systems
    • X-Laser USA
    • CNI Lasers
    • Cambridge Technology & Eye Magic Professional Scanning Systems

    FDA/CDRH Certified Professional LuminanceRGB Laser Light Show Systems


  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    7,067

    Lightbulb

    Quote Originally Posted by gottaluvlasers View Post
    Congrats Aaron!

    GREAT job! you have come quite a long way my friend. i actually may want to use your command switch if you dont mind. got a schematic? and are your case swaitches wired to the shutter or to kill all power? do u have a sw on each panel (4)?

    -Marc
    I sent ya a PM last night but didn't anwer the questions. The interlock is hooked to the laser and shutter power supplies; my key switch is to the shutter signal on pin 13. I only have two case intrusion switches on the front. With the way the case is built using the hex screws the case switches are not needed unless I want to sell the projector in the future but I was told it is best to set it up this was now. I might put switches on all 4 panels as they are not that hard to install; at least the ones I have. I am also curious as to how to install a defeated interlock system... or somethign that indicates the interlock is defeated while the case is open for service.

    (damn Adam, you as slow as Jon)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Charleston, SC
    Posts
    2,147,489,370

    Default

    If you defeat the interlock as it's designed now, that means the circuit thinks everything is normal. Thus, there won't be any indication that anything is defeated. Are you saying you want a special override switch that disables all safety interlocks? Because I don't think that's a requirement... (I could implement this, but it would require a few changes to the circuit.)

    In practice, the only way to defeat the interlock now would be to tape or wire the case intrusion switches so they stay shut even with the panel open. And I believe that would be enough to warn the person performing service that the interlock is bypassed. (Since that person would have to be the one who installed the tape or wire to hold the switches closed in the first place.) You would only do this when you needed to adjust the alignment of the optics or tune the scanners and needed everything to be running.

    Also note that bypassing the case intrusion switches does nothing to the rest of the circuit. You still have the commanded-start functionality, and any other interlock condition (removing the 1/4 inch plug, yanking the ILDA cable, pressing the stop switch, etc) will still cause the projector to shut down.

    Adam

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    7,067

    Lightbulb

    I think I said that wrong; I mean an audible or visual alert that shows the case intrusion interlock sensors have been defeated. There is something in the CDRH requirement docs that say if your interlock is defeatable there has to be an indicator to tell the person working on the projector that the interlock has been defeated. The way around that is not to have a defeatable interlock, but any interlock is defeatable... The key is to not provide a way to defeat it. Like on mine, I just need to keep my alligator clips tucked away while the projector in out in public. I am just curious how to make an additional circuit to add the defeated interlock indicator... In theory.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    1,090

    Default

    Congrats man

    Looking forward to seeing this case in action soon

    --DDL
    I suffer from the Dunning–Kruger effect... daily.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •