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Thread: Eye-magic Iris ColorSafe

  1. #1
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    Question Eye-magic Iris ColorSafe

    So I was looking on the eyemagic site, looking at the galvo's as I saw rummors about it being better then DT galvo's and cheaper than DT's????

    Anyway my eye spotted some other product from eyemagic, the iris colorsafe. http://www.eyemagic.gr/laser-iris-colorsafe.html

    It looks really promising, even though pangolin for example has an option to do this through software and such.
    What do you people think of this system?
    It looks great as you are not able to tune things way to precise... Anyone got an idea who's selling this? and at what price?

  2. #2
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    I've got one, I haven't used it yet but it is well built.

    I can't quiet remember but I think it is 550.

    You can buy it from onestoplasershop or direct from Eyemagic.

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    they are not cheaper than DT gavlos, they are cheaper than cambridge scanners

    problem with the colorsafe is I have heard the insertion loss is insane

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    what a waste.
    Any clue why this is?
    Is this huge loss really needed to get the perfect color balance?
    or is this some hardware limit of the eye-magic iris colorsafe?

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    umm, i don't think you're supposed to stick the sensor in the main beam.

    Why not use a 1% reflect 99% pass filter to pick up some of the beam and send it to the sensor ?
    Now proudly stocking and offering the best deals on laser-wave

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    Quote Originally Posted by aijii View Post
    umm, i don't think you're supposed to stick the sensor in the main beam.

    Why not use a 1% reflect 99% pass filter to pick up some of the beam and send it to the sensor ?

    I just RTFM and yes, you do stick the sensor in the beam path, right before your galvos.

    So the actual unit attenuates by loosing 20% before you hit galvo for $500 I'll come up with a dirty Dicro that will do the same..

    Cheers,

    N.

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    That sounds like a huge disadvantage to make this product even worth purchasing.. why doesn't it just measure your laser modules outputs of all the module sepperate by some shutter when you press the button? so that the board of the eye-magic reads the wattages and then adjusts the modules outputs to get a perfect white.. and once your modules have heated up you just press a button and it readjusts.
    that way those measurement thingy's don't have to read the output all the time and do not block much of the output... :/
    Why does nobody make something like that?
    A sort of shutter that once pressed it quickly measures each modules current output, then balances this out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by masterpj View Post
    That sounds like a huge disadvantage to make this product even worth purchasing.. why doesn't it just measure your laser modules outputs of all the module sepperate by some shutter when you press the button? so that the board of the eye-magic reads the wattages and then adjusts the modules outputs to get a perfect white.. and once your modules have heated up you just press a button and it readjusts.
    that way those measurement thingy's don't have to read the output all the time and do not block much of the output... :/
    Why does nobody make something like that?
    A sort of shutter that once pressed it quickly measures each modules current output, then balances this out.
    But isn't it this a dynamic process, continuously adjusting the powers to achieve increased linearity?

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    Quote Originally Posted by taggalucci View Post
    But isn't it this a dynamic process, continuously adjusting the powers to achieve increased linearity?
    Well I mean if you think the balance would be off you would press a key where it will quickly remeasure
    I think the eye-magic is dynamic but the huge drop in output power is just so bad that I would trade the dynamic bit in for something like this

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by taggalucci View Post
    But isn't it this a dynamic process, continuously adjusting the powers to achieve increased linearity?
    Yes that's right Tony.

    @ masterpj Don't forget that half the reason for this board is for safety.
    It will dynamically attenuate the beam below a preset horizon. Eg if you scan a circle half above the horizon and half below it will let the part above scan at full power and the
    part below will be at MPE after you calibrate it (of coarse after the appropriate calcs to suit the venue).



    The main beam goes through a piece of glass at 45deg which appear to be uncoated.
    As I haven't used it yet I can't verify what percentage of the beam reflects into the sensor. The sensor is a clear 6 pin dil with an IR filter covering the sensor element which is 2mm in diameter and made up of 3 120deg sectors for reading the RGB levels.

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