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Thread: DMX Control Decisions?

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Default DMX Control Decisions?

    I'm finally getting around to building the beam table project I've had planned.

    I retrieved my Eurolight LC2412 DMX from the closet (brand new, ~30 minutes use out of the box). Powered it up and now it's quasi-dead (partial LCD display), won't initialize, etc. Of course it's out of warranty now....

    I'm looking for suggestions on what to do?

    * Send it off for repair (I do like the Eurolight features)
    * Buy another DMX console (such as Elation)
    * Stick with LD2000/LivePro for my testing (I've not played with this yet)
    * Buy an Enttec (not sure this gains me anything?)

    I'd appreciate any feedback.

    Thanks,
    Greg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Lightbulb

    Talk to flecom about how he uses LD2000 to make frames for showtime and livepro. I'd use what you already have.

    You can't fix what you just drug out of storage?
    Love, peace, and grease,

    allthat... aka: aaron@pangolin

  3. #3
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by allthatwhichis View Post
    You can't fix what you just drug out of storage?
    I've not thrown in the towel yet, just cheesed that this console has no hours on it and has already failed. Large PCB, mostly surface mount components, etc. I'll try a few more things, but so far it's not looking encouraging.

  4. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Displaser View Post
    I'm finally getting around to building the beam table project I've had planned.

    I retrieved my Eurolight LC2412 DMX from the closet (brand new, ~30 minutes use out of the box). Powered it up and now it's quasi-dead (partial LCD display), won't initialize, etc. Of course it's out of warranty now....

    I'm looking for suggestions on what to do?

    * Send it off for repair (I do like the Eurolight features)
    * Buy another DMX console (such as Elation)
    * Stick with LD2000/LivePro for my testing (I've not played with this yet)
    * Buy an Enttec (not sure this gains me anything?)

    I'd appreciate any feedback.

    Thanks,
    Greg
    If it died in its box, you could open it, and check the wires. I mean there are a couple of solder points on there which connect to various boards.

    Check those and see if it fixes the problem.

    This is a known problem. Cheap consoles are not good for transport.

  5. #5
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    Default

    Sad thing, is that it worked great when put away. The console hasn't even left the house yet (I'm only using it as a stand-alone controller).

    I've opened the case, done a visual inspection, reseated several ribbon cables. There's not much else that can be done.

  6. #6
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    Default

    its a bad battery, whenever these things die, its a bad battery... 3v watch cell

  7. #7
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    Default

    "its a bad battery, whenever these things die, its a bad battery... 3v watch cell "

    I'm thinking the same thing.
    Most electronics now have battery supported data file storage and the likes.
    Usually regular usage keeps them charged up.
    The same thing will happen to a good computer if you leave it unplugged in a closet for any length of time.
    Look for the small round battery. It could be a wider flat one and who knows where it might be hidden on the PC board. They are flat enough to be under a heatsink from something next to it.

    Good luck.

  8. #8
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    Default

    na if you open it up its obvious where it is, its in the middle of the PCB all by itself

    usually when the battery in a device dies it just loses its memory every time you power it off.. the behringer just goes nuts/stops working when the battery dies

  9. #9
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    Get an Enttec or get Beyond! the DMX in QS2 is nothing short of awesome, so I am pretty sure the DMX in Beyond will be just as good
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  10. #10
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    Can't believe I missed this thread!

    Greg, if you've still got that DMX board, bring it to SELEM and we'll fix it there. I have the same exact board (so does Frank), and his post is 100% accurate. Your problem is nothing more than a bad CMOS battery. On mine, I soldered a dual AA-size battery holder to the board and installed a pair of lithium energizers. It should last something like 50 years now. Total cost: $12 (including the batteries).

    Adam

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