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Thread: 3.6W RGB

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    South Africa
    Posts
    9

    Default 3.6W RGB

    A year in the making,just showing off my RGB build. Doing a little over 3.6W all lines(after loses).
    Red 1.2W, Green 1.7W Blue 1.8W
    Now that it's complete, I'm considering replacing the 2x445 laser with a quad build. Should improve the output to about 5.5W.
    Not that I need more power, just looking for an excuse to spend more $$$ on laser stuff


    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pa3_u...eature=related


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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Athens, Greece
    Posts
    1,931

    Default

    good one!!! i especially like the transparent case, i always enjoy seeing the inner workings of a projector in action

    any points of your build you'd like to point out?
    "its called character briggs..."

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    South Africa
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by LaNeK779 View Post
    good one!!! i especially like the transparent case, i always enjoy seeing the inner workings of a projector in action

    any points of your build you'd like to point out?
    10mm Al base. Used 5mm previously and had endless alignment problems from the base flexing.

    Commercial optic mounts for dichoics. Makes alignment so much easier! Also doesn't lose the alignment ever time you move the unit.

    I should have used thinner arcylic. The 10mm was a little annoying to machine my hand.

    Try take possible future upgrades in consideration when planning the layout. I upgraded my green from 800mW to 1.7W and space became an issue to embed new laser.

    Lastly, if you using red, large 6mmx10mm galvo mirrors make a huge difference to output power. Well worth the upgrade(@ slightly reduced scanning speed)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    3,513

    Default

    Nice build! Regarding the flexure, a brushed aluminum plate underlying the base and separated from the acrylic by a grid of equal height anodized standoffs might look pretty cool. Thats assuming there is still a little flexure to deal with even with the thicker plastic. I don't know if you are doing this, but to keep the inner surface of the acrylic clean, a filter on the intake might be useful. This could require an increase in the fan rating if heat is a threat, but the glow of the lasers inside will probably show even a little dirt or the scratches from cleaning it. Don't get me wrong this is a very nice machine ( a few more pics would be nice) just looking for tweaks.

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