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Thread: Power Meter

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy_con View Post
    but the die4laser one can only go up to like a watt and the sensor burns easily with 445
    Good point. Have you asked Robin if you can use a different sensor that can handle the higher power? Seems like you should be able to.

  2. #22
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    nope didnt occur to me but will email now.

    thanks
    Eat Sleep Lase Repeat

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy_con View Post
    how accurate is this?
    Those OPHIR 20C-A heads were calibrated by OPHIR..
    They are NEW surplus heads... They output 1mV/1mW.

    Quote Originally Posted by andy_con View Post
    but the die4laser one can only go up to like a watt and the sensor burns easily with 445
    IIRC... the Die4Thing was good to 3Watts similar to the 3.2W LaserBee II...
    Of course the Die4thing LPM came first...

    If you keep the Beam >2mm diameter you will not burn the coating of the
    LaserBee II thermopile's sensor at 3.2 Watts.

    I know you don't want a Hobbyists LPM but just so that you know...our
    LaserBee II tracks our NewPort 1825C with Thermopile head to within 2%
    across its full range.


    Jerry
    Last edited by lasersbee; 07-07-2011 at 16:55. Reason: spelling errors
    See the LaserBee II and all other LaserBee LPM products here....
    All LaserBee Laser Power Meter Products

    New 3.2Watt RS232/USB LaserBee II LPM REVIEW


    Always in stock and ready to ship....
    Subsidary:-Pharma Electronic Solutions

  4. #24
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    Feb 2011
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    Alright Jerry so you inspired me. I ordered one last week when you first posted it and it came today. It is actually much smaller than I thought it would be.









    I am wanting to test it a little before I started making a nice box with a LCD for it. I want to run it off my power supply and use my DMM and you had said the wiring was wrong in your thread over @ LPF I thought I would just be sure before powering it up.

    Does this look right.
    Last edited by DTR; 07-11-2011 at 20:20.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by DTR View Post

    Does this look right.
    No, it needs a differential voltage just like a set of galvos, just not nearly as much current. Maybe 100mA per leg at the most. I usually use a cheap DC-DC converter to power Ophir heads. You can get a 5V to -/+15VDC DC-DC converter and make it USB powered.

  6. #26
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    Figured it could not be that easy. Electronics is definitely not my strong suit. Do you have a suggestion on a DC-DC converter that would possibly be in stock at a local electronics store like a microcenter or radio shack?

    Or I guess I have two nine volt batteries and I could run and get a DPDT switch and try it Jerry's way.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by DTR View Post
    Figured it could not be that easy. Electronics is definitely not my strong suit. Do you have a suggestion on a DC-DC converter that would possibly be in stock at a local electronics store like a microcenter or radio shack?

    Or I guess I have two nine volt batteries and I could run and get a DPDT switch and try it Jerry's way.
    Four 9V batteries would do it for sure but if you want a DC-DC converter, your not going to find one at radioshack. Here is one on ebay that would work if the head draws less then 33mA per leg,,, which it probably does but I'd verify.

  8. #28
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    Why would +/- 18V be better than +/- 9V if the head is rated at +/- 5 to +/- 18V?

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by laser_freak View Post
    Why would +/- 18V be better than +/- 9V if the head is rated at +/- 5 to +/- 18V?
    I was going by this document...



    If that's really the tolerance then -/+9V would be fine.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails p1016729.jpg  


  10. #30
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    Feb 2011
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    9V or 18V for each power source I guess I can determine later as the wiring is giving me the most confusion. This seems to be close to what I am seeing on Jerry's thread. Am I in the ball park.
    Last edited by DTR; 07-11-2011 at 20:20.

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