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Thread: stacking red LOC's ?

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by polishedball View Post
    Did you do tests with telescopes?
    Not yet, I’m trying not to need telescopic lenses. I’ve got a set of broadband Thor Labs 3:1 here just in case I do.
    Doing an 8 banger giving a beam @ the aperture of 3.5 x 4mm is no problem with the Optimas or the 405-G2. 2 x :: thru a PBS. I’m going to do a combo 1 x 445nm @ 1250mW + 8 x 658nm @ 2400mW. This build will be on a 300mm x 250mm x 8mm glass baseplate, all components will be precision glued via a template, which will be removed after placement of all diodes and optics. The mirror mounts have a 10mm x 10mm foot print. The base plate is large enough to also carry a 500mW 532nm and a scanner. This optic section will be hermetically sealed from the rest of the projector. Heat or cold will be transferred in and out of the enclosure via TECs which connect the inside atmosphere to the outside. A regulated fan on the inner and outer heat sinks supply air (or nitrogen, keeps things dry) circulation, temperature within the module is regulated. All diodes will be top TEC tempered to keep any temperature fluctuations away from the optics carrying baseplate.

    Now all I need is time to put it all together……….look at all this shit just laying around and not getting put together.

    See the little silver baggies on the right.. That's 22 x 826ers.

    The backline is the test section..
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Shit needs getting done.jpg  

    Last edited by Solarfire; 08-29-2011 at 18:26.

  2. #22
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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	26947 I was wonderiong when someone would start thinking about glass or ceramics for a baseplate precisely due to their excelent rigity and thermal insulation properties.!

    Questions.
    How do you cut the (heat out) TEC holes in the glass plate ?
    What glue do you use between brass or ally and glass ?
    Why 658s instead of 637s ?
    Why would you want heat IN ?

    Sounds like a really interesting rig Click image for larger version. 

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    Cheers

  3. #23
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    No holes in the glass baseplate. The TEC is going thru the back wall of the module, connecting a heat sink with fan on the inside and the same on the outside, this is just for maintaining the internal module temperature (internal air flow). It replaces conventional fans which draw dirt into the projector environment. The top of the module is a heat sink for all the diode TECs (6 small 15mm x 15mm TECs) and the sides of the module are made of 4mm aluminum. I found that the CPU heat sink/fan combos are excellent for this purpose.

    As for the glue, it’s just some glue I found here in Germany specially made for bonding NE metals and glass, I also use it to mount mirrors, prisms and cylinders and other optics (it’s called UHU glass). Takes long to cure, but when it’s cured, you have to break something to get it apart.

    Why 658s instead of 637s ? Hmmmm.. I’m probably more of a fan of the deeper red. I think I would rather pump out more power of 658 to keep this shade of red up to the blue and green levels. Plus it’s a better bang for the buck. Gives a good beam with the Optimas or the 405-G2s and they have reasonable power, if not wasted.

    Why would you want heat IN ? It may be cold outside, then you need heat!

    In my testing I’ve found that a tension free setup (no screws on the optical component setup, accept the 2 on each mirror mount) has big advantages. There’s a lot less work going on due to thermal imbalances (especially on multi diode setups) and that under tension.

    Cheers!

  4. #24
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    Good glue info ! Click image for larger version. 

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    Cheers

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaNeK779 View Post
    if you use the optima lenses you can expect a beam of 2x3.5mm from each diode @ 0.5 mrad with less than 1% loses.

    You can combine 6 diodes like ::: and get a beam of approx 6x6.5m.

    then all you have to do is choose the appropriate ratio telescope. if you choose 3:1 you can have an exact match for most dpss green beams (approx 2mm diameter and 1.5mrad divergence)
    I've read that when using telescopics it is better to use 8mm FL lenses rather than 4mm. With the figures quoted above for 6 stacked, would the divergence be better/larger/same, the diameter smaller/larger/same with 8mm FL and a 3:1 telescope?

    Also, could you PBS cube combine 2 of these 6 stacks and achieve the same beam specs?

    Has anyone got a 12 banger built with LOCs or OpNext single mode diodes, used Optima lenses and used a telescope? If so, what are your beam specs, which Optima lenses did you use and which telescopic optics did you choose?

    Optima seem to do 2 different 8mm FL lenses, but I cant work out which would be better. Any recommendations? http://optima-prec.com/molded.htm

  6. #26
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  7. #27
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    Yeah nice builds, as I said when I first your your great work.

    So clearly you're using the Roithner 8mm FL plastic lenses. I wonder what difference the 8mm Optima lenses would make?

    Anyone done a PBS combined 12 banger ::: x2?

  8. #28
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    working on this, once proofed there will be most likely kits offered.
    leading in trailing technology

  9. #29
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    swamidog is online now Jr. Woodchuckington Janitor III, Esq.
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    i still have my hair.. there's no way i'm going to attempt that.


    Quote Originally Posted by polishedball View Post
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    working on this, once proofed there will be most likely kits offered.
    suppose you're thinkin' about a plate o' shrimp. Suddenly someone'll say, like, plate, or shrimp, or plate o' shrimp out of the blue, no explanation. No point in lookin' for one, either. It's all part of a cosmic unconciousness.

  10. #30
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    KJ might have a better chance than I.

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    leading in trailing technology

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