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Thread: Remote interlock forsatellites ?

  1. #1
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    Default Remote interlock forsatellites ?

    Hmmm. I have gone down the Stanwax ILDA board remote E-stop solution. Now I am building a pair of satellite projectors and I am thinking how best to do the remote interlock.

    Ideally the sats would slave off the main projector, but I am curious how others achieve this. I am starting to think it might have been easier to simply switch the interlock signal as the ILDA interface at the operator end of the cable, then I could pass both DAC's IDLA interfaces through the E-stop box.

    I want to stick with a single E-stop obviously.

    How does everyone else do it?

    Thanks again! Wayne.
    This space for rent.

  2. #2
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    there is a stanwax ilda ver 2 board that promises to do this, but we are still waiting for an update on its progress.

    hope mr stanwax surfaces sometime soon, i am also waiting for news on this one
    "its called character briggs..."

  3. #3
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    Do u know what the features of these new board will be?

  4. #4
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    they are posted on here somewhere, but i can't find it at the moment....
    "its called character briggs..."

  5. #5
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    Let me know if you find the link and post it here please, would like to look over it... special since i am in the need to buy 4 - 5 of these... and will sell my old once that i have not used so far.

  6. #6
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    got it!! http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...212#post194212

    seems like there is still some time needed to get a sneack preview
    "its called character briggs..."

  7. #7
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    Hi Guys.

    I have V1 stanwax ILDA boards fitted in my two Little Stan RGB projectors that are chain linked through ILDA and I only have the one E-stop with remote start button.
    Rob had to make a modification to the V1 ILDA boards to get the E-stop and remote start to work with a chain of projectors. I'm sorry but it's not for me to give details about the mod before anyone asks but I can say with this modification there is no master or slave projector. You can chain them in any order.
    This modification was the basis for the V2 boards that I now believe are in the hands of Rob and the first of which is to be fitted in to my 3rd RGB.
    The only details I know about the V2 boards is that you have to short out some solder pads to activate the chain link E-stop / Remote start feature.
    It may be worth sending Rob a PM or email him through his web site. www.stanwaxlaser.co.uk
    I hope this is of help.

    Carl
    Last edited by Carl B; 09-01-2011 at 14:03.
    2 x Stanwax Laser 3W RGB's
    2 x OPT 10W RGB
    Pangolin FB3QS + Live Pro
    1.3W Laser Harp

  8. #8
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    Hey Carl,

    Could you get rob to give a few details here, too?

    Your old projector could also benefit from a new version ilda board
    "its called character briggs..."

  9. #9
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    I do it the same way Mobolazer did it... 3 pin XLR connectors, with passthrough... daisy chain all the projectors back to one keyswitch e-stop

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by flecom View Post
    I do it the same way Mobolazer did it... 3 pin XLR connectors, with passthrough... daisy chain all the projectors back to one keyswitch e-stop
    That's the way ILDA intended it in the first place.

    The 'Interlock A/Interlock B' set of pins was NEVER intended to work as a connection for an emergency stop. The pins were designed to protect equipment (e.g. the projector and DAC) from damage if the ILDA connector was accidentally wired up to something else -- for example, a PC printer port. The Interlock pins made sure the whole chain only worked (and laser was output) if the cable was undamaged and everything was plugged in the correct fashion.

    That people wired in an E-stop in that circuit was never meant to happen. The ILDA interlock is supposed to protect equipment, not audience. Audience safety should, by IDA guidelines, be wired on a completely separate set of wiring.

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