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Thread: First experiments in holography

  1. #1
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    Default First experiments in holography

    As some of you know, I've been developing my own film for a year or two now, and having pretty much got the hang of it, I felt a need to make things more difficult... so I've been doing some experiments in holography.

    I took a DVD burner diode with a little current source driver, removed the lens, and clocked it at 3.4 mW at the aperture; I'm using the Slavich PFG-03M plates (the little 2.5" ones to start; I also have some bigger ones, but I'm still getting the hang of this stuff.)

    In some kind of effort to prove that you don't need expensive equipment to make holograms, I nicked a shelf from the kitchen cabinet, and spent $10 on C clamps. Here are some pictures of my setup. (I actually put this on a memory foam mattress and leave it to settle for a bit before shooting.)

    I've gotten some pretty nice results, though my stupid digital camera refuses to cooperate and focus on the hologram; it prefers the straight edges of the plate. I think I'm going to try and make H2s from the transmission masters. I also have a big piece of first surface mirror on order so that I can get better illumination on the object.

    I am told that I should paint the emulsion side of the reflection holos with black paint; I'm a little leary of spraying random spray paint on it, because I don't want to destroy the image. Does anyone have a suggestion for a good type of paint that I can use?

  2. #2
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    Nice start, well done .

    To make H2's you'll need to up the ante considerably with regard to your stability.

    With regard to black paint anything that smells like acetone is generally a no no. Best to buy a can and give it a go as any recommendations I give here are only valid in the UK.

    Oh, also, beware... Holography is addictive and you'll want better and better results, It's not too difficult to get average results, but to get really good results requires a fair bit of effort and won't happen overnight. Trust me on this one, having been through the initial learning curve I know!

    Cheers

    Jem
    Quote: "There is a theory which states that if ever, for any reason, anyone discovers what exactly the Universe is for and why it is here it will instantly disappear and be replaced by something even more bizarre and inexplicable. There is another that states that this has already happened.... Douglas Adams 1952 - 2001

  3. #3
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    I'm not convinced that my stability is a serious issue at this point; I made some bright, sharp, non-bandy transmission holos with a 40 second exposure, which seems pretty good. As for other things- my next step is going to be articulated bar & clamp stands and some first surface mirrors so I can get a better beam on the object. I have this one object I've been trying as a test article, but it's kinda irregular (it's a little demon fiddler figure in polymer clay) and to date I've not been able to get enough light with a single beam or a single bounce; I think I need to redirect some light back into the scene to get both surfaces of the little guy lit up.

  4. #4
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    Excellent results! That looks like a steel plate under the wooden shelf. I'd use that as the base instead of the wood, and just lay it flat on the table. Also, cut up a sheet of black foamcore or black matte board to make an enclosure box for the system and some baffle cards. Attach magnets to them to make them stick to the base. Air currents are just as bad as vibrations.

  5. #5
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    I'm avoiding air movement by being very still and holding my breath during the exposure. Also, it seems that black krylon paint doesn't damage the emulsion :-)

  6. #6
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    The air currents that make the fringes move about are there and moving because of your body in the room and all the other heat sources that keep it circulating. It takes hours and hours for a sealed room to come to air stability. Best results will always result by using the smallest enclosure possible. Baffle cards are also important to keep stray light from fogging the plate and making extra gratings (when coming from metal things in the area). None of that keeps it from working though, as your great example proves!

  7. #7
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    Okay, here's experimental rig #5:

    photo gallery

    I guess the proof of the pudding is in the eating, so we'll see if this works later on.

  8. #8
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    Looking good, nice to see everything locked down solid

    Keep posting the pic's

    Cheers

    Jem
    Quote: "There is a theory which states that if ever, for any reason, anyone discovers what exactly the Universe is for and why it is here it will instantly disappear and be replaced by something even more bizarre and inexplicable. There is another that states that this has already happened.... Douglas Adams 1952 - 2001

  9. #9
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    It's difficult to imagine how totally revolutionary this way to make an image was in the mid-'60s when it was first seen. Nice work!

  10. #10
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    Here we go, I shot three plates a couple nights ago and they're just coming nice now. Didn't have any failures this time:

    Here's a video
    I've added some more photos to this album that show the results (kinda badly- my digital camera hates holograms.)

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