E-Stop?

[dnar]

Sorry to ask a dumb question, search did not reveal the answer.

I am building an E-Stop for my projector, a few questions:

1. Must the stop switch inc. key release?
2. Is the D9 wiring on the Stanwax ILDA board a standard?
3. Can I use any other connector type? ie. XLR-5 or 6?

I found an inexpensive stop button, it does not include a key but does require a twist to release.

Cheers!

[JohnYayas]

Good question. What dictates the requirements in Australia? Do you guys even have to bother with variances? Obviously not US variances but some something like it?

[flecom]

the estop that came with my LT1000 does not require a key... and I don't think the connector matters over here... but as Senior Yayas' pointed out it would depend on what your requirements over on your island are

[dave]

Well, as practically no one in this country follows the guidelines set out, I think any form of E-stop is a good deal.

Ours have a separate key switch to big red button. And we just break the interlock pins on the ilda to drop the shutter. Saves an extra cable run.

Sorry to ask a dumb question, search did not reveal the answer.

I am building an E-Stop for my projector, a few questions:

1. Must the stop switch inc. key release?
2. Is the D9 wiring on the Stanwax ILDA board a standard?
3. Can I use any other connector type? ie. XLR-5 or 6?

I found an inexpensive stop button, it does not include a key but does require a twist to release.

Cheers!

[taggalucci]

Sorry to ask a dumb question, search did not reveal the answer.

I am building an E-Stop for my projector, a few questions:

1. Must the stop switch inc. key release?
2. Is the D9 wiring on the Stanwax ILDA board a standard?
3. Can I use any other connector type? ie. XLR-5 or 6?

I found an inexpensive stop button, it does not include a key but does require a twist to release.

Cheers!

Hi Wayne,

I use the same safety boards from Rob (Stanwax). Firstly in answer to your queries...

1. The stop switch does not require a key release. In the case of a failure condition, the circuit resets so you have to to push the run button to start again. As there is a key switch on the laser (and possibly the remote) this is enough to comply with the "lockability".
2. Is the D9 wiring on the Stanwax ILDA board a standard - No.
3. Can I use any other connector type? ie. XLR-5 or 6 - Yes.

I have recently torn my hair out trying to make sense of the documentation which accompanies the board. I bought 2 of these great boards from Rob, though each had the DB-9 wired differently, 1 in complete reverse to the other! So I have just yesterday rewired one of the boards to match the other and is a better match to the documentation.

Here's my external remote diagram...



I have detached wires to pins 2, 3 and 9 on Rob's board so that I can use these for other purposes, like shutter override.

[dnar]

Thanks Dave, Tony.

Tony, that's odd the wiring was reversed? Was it the wrong sex D9?

[taggalucci]

No, the DB-9 exposed from the board was the same sex.

I bought an internal mounted version on it's own originally with the DB-9 hard wired to the board. Then I bought another internal version with the colour correction daughter-board option which has the DB-9 on a ribbon cable. This second one had the board pin 1 wired to DB-9 pin 5, 2 to 4, 3 to 3, 4 to 3, 5 to 1, 6 to 9, 7 to 8, 8 to 7, 9 to 6! At first I thought the documentation was wrong. So I scribbled all over it with what I thought were the correct pin assignments! Then I grabbed the remote, correctly wired to run the board already in use, to test with the newer board and found the mismatch - grrr!

The reason for this effort is that I have 3 smaller projectors in progress (which I'm not using Rob's board for) that I wanted to ensure my DIY interlock circuits were wired to be compatible with the remote. Thankfully I picked up the crossed wiring before I soldered all of the DB-9s up!

I really like Rob's boards by the way, even if a little inconsistent!

[dnar]

Ah, ok.

Do you know if any of the switch pins are ground? I am trying to get this down to a 5 pin connector (XLR).

[taggalucci]

The board doesn't appear to support a shared ground wire to the remote. If it did, I would have expected this shared between pins 7 and 8 or 4 and 5.

[mccarrot]

1. Yes, so you dont need it on your laser anymore (how will you turn the keyswitcht if your laser is trussed at 4 meters high. tip! dont use a estop with a key build in the knop. This will hurt when you must hit the button with key in place.
2. No, i use rj45 ( ethercon), i hate dsub. Ilda cable is enoug pain.
3. Xlr 3 or 5 is also a good option